Trouble priming log splitter

[gestes]

Let me start by saying I'm a newbie when it comes to Hydraulics.

While I was splitting wood, a piece got stuck and while the ram was retracting, broke the nipple connecting the handle/value to the cylinder. I was able to get the broken nipple out and replace it but in doing this the majority of the hydraulic fluid drained from the cylinder. I filled the reservoir with fluid. I read that if you manually pull starter rope a couple dozen times it would circulate the fluid and remove the air. The Ram was out about 1/2 way out when the nipple broke so as I was pulling the starter rope the ram started retracting into the cylinder which I thought was a good thing. Next I started the engine test the handle, but pushing it forward didn't do anything. Pulling the handle back would build pressure and draw the engine down. I have to assume there is still air in the system somewhere, most likely in the cylinder, but don't know for sure. I figure there should be an air release value somewhere, but I'm not finding it. There was a bolt on top of the pump and I loosened and a little air came out followed by a steady flow of fluid so I tightened it back up. There was also one similar to this on the handle/value which I did the same thing. What am I missing?

Here are some pictures I took with my phone. They are not the greatest, but hopefully will help.
http://estessolutions.com/logsplitter/index.htm

Thanks for you help.

Greg

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Let me start by saying I'm a newbie when it comes to Hydraulics.

While I was splitting wood, a piece got stuck and while the ram was retracting, broke the nipple connecting the handle/value to the cylinder. I was able to get the broken nipple out and replace it but in doing this the majority of the hydraulic fluid drained from the cylinder. I filled the reservoir with fluid. I read that if you manually pull starter rope a couple dozen times it would circulate the fluid and remove the air. The Ram was out about 1/2 way out when the nipple broke so as I was pulling the starter rope the ram started retracting into the cylinder which I thought was a good thing. Next I started the engine test the handle, but pushing it forward didn't do anything. Pulling the handle back would build pressure and draw the engine down. I have to assume there is still air in the system somewhere, most likely in the cylinder, but don't know for sure. I figure there should be an air release value somewhere, but I'm not finding it. There was a bolt on top of the pump and I loosened and a little air came out followed by a steady flow of fluid so I tightened it back up. There was also one similar to this on the handle/value which I did the same thing. What am I missing?

Here are some pictures I took with my phone. They are not the greatest, but hopefully will help.
http://estessolutions.com/logsplitter/index.htm

Thanks for you help.

Greg

No extra priming needed....just run the cyl a few times back and forth...lett PRV bypass a few seconds.....just make sure the are no restrictions on suction side of pump....incl air vent on reservoir..

 

[Craig Clayton]

If you disconnect the lines to the cylinder and manually retract the rod if you had air. If you work in a clean half filled bucket of oil this might help.
Craig Clayton

 

[gestes]

When I push the handle forward, nothing happens. The ram head doesn't move. Am I just not waiting long enough?

 

[art]

The system is self priming and you might just need to hold tha handle a little longer.

 

[gestes]

Please pardon my ignorance.

I went home at lunch and tried letting it run longer(about 15 minutes) with no luck. It sounds like it should be simple but I'm just not getting it. Is 15 minutes not long enough? If not, how long would you expect it to take? I think it's probably a 4" cylinder.

Also, the handle seems like it's working opposite the way I would expect it. Before I start the engine, the ram is fully retracted and the handle is in the retracted position (pushed back toward the trailer hitch). As soon as the engine starts, the handle pops foward and the engine runs idle. The handle can be moved slightly forward but not much. This is how I left it over lunch. What I find strange is when I try to push the handle back, it draws the engine down and I can feel the fluid moving in the larger hose connecting the valve to the filter/tank. Is this the position I'm suppose to hold the handle in?

To further investigate, I removed the line connecting the valve to the back of the cylinder to make sure fluid was being transferred to the cylinder. With the engine running, no fluid was seen pulling the handle forward. But when I pushed the handle back, it shot out fluid from the valve side. This just seems backwards. I would expect fluid to be running thru that line when you want the ram to extend.

I'm positive prior to this issue, pulling the handle toward the wood piece extended the ram and pushing it retracted it, but I'm starting to doubt myself. It's driving me crazy. Is there a way I could have put the handle/valve on backwards?

Thanks for you help.

 

[tommu56]

did you fill the tank back up?
don't fill it with rod extended all the way

after you get it working check level again with the rod back

 

[gestes]

Yes I filled the tank back up with the ram re-tracked.

 

[Car Doc]

My guess is you have a valve stuck in the control head or there is still a plug in something you replaced or it wasn't drilled I have seen things like that.

I even saw a automotive waterpump once that didn't have a heater hose out let drilled it had the tube and everything just wasn't drilled all the way thru. Oh on my splitter moving the handle twords the wood make it go that way also you are not crazy based on that alone.

 

[J_J]

Yes, it is possible to install the valve backwards. and if you pulled the lever to the work piece, you would be actually retracting, and since the ram is retracted, nothing will happen. If you have fluid coming out of the pump and nothing to the ram, the fluid has to be going somewhere. The valves are usually marked IN and OUT or P and T. How about the hoses on the cyl, are they correct.

 

[gestes]

The hoses should be correct. There is a nipple that connects the valve to the front (ram end) of the cylinder and 1/2" pipe connecting to the back. I don't believe those are mixed up as there is an elbow coming out of the valve for the back connection that was never removed. I'm not thinking it's installed backwards but I will double look for markings on it when I get home.

 

[J_J]

The pressure hose should go to the IN port of the valve in any case. and the return back to tank. If the cyl hose are wrong, and you push toward the log, the cyl will stay not move, but if you pull the lever back and the ram extends, then you know for sure, Does your valve have detent, that shifts the lever back to neutral after retracted?

 

[tommu56]

What about the filter, or suction strainer, and hose?

That sudden surge might have sucked them shut or dislodged some debris in tank to plug them.

I would have a bucket ready and take the suction hose off the pump and see if you get any flow (by gravity) from the tank

Take the pressure line off valve and hold it over the fill port on the tank and have some one else start motor and check flow.

The other thing is maybe like some one else said the 2nd stage isn't kicking in on the pump or relief valve on handle is stuck part open

another thing to check but with the plumbing it might be hard extend the cylinder and take off the cylinder return line off and see if piston seal is bad and blowing buy (you can do it the other way too )

 

[Leejohn]

How did you take out the broken stub pipe? There might be part of it that went into the valve and blocking the port. Is that fitting the same as you took out?

 

[gestes]

I got it working. The valve was sticking and not allowing the handle to move forward completely.

Thanks everyone.