Trailering a Power-Trac

[hoaglagd]

Thanks all for the infor. I guess I have more options than I realized. I had not considered an aluminum trailer. I forgot to mention that the 3,000 pound gvw hitch is the maximum hitch that my vehicle is rated to carry (4 wheel drive Isuzu Trooper). I called the hitch people and they confirmed that. It also says the maximum gvw goes up to 4,000 pounds if I have a load distributor - am not familiar with them. For the most part, I would only be pulling vehicle about 40 miles over fairly level roads to some land that I have purchased out of town - so from that perspective I might get by with a single axle. Width is also an issue (narrower better) since I need to be able to get the trailer between a drainage ditch and my house (will store in the back of my lot in town) Need to get busy now and pursue my options. Thanks again all.

 

[KentT]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I forgot to mention that the 3,000 pound gvw hitch is the maximum hitch that my vehicle is rated to carry (4 wheel drive Isuzu Trooper). I called the hitch people and they confirmed that. It also says the maximum gvw goes up to 4,000 pounds if I have a load distributor - am not familiar with them. )</font>

Well, for about $250 then, you can go from 3000 to 4000 lbs -- and that opens up a whole lot of option. A weight distributing hitch is designed to transfer some of the weight of a trailer's tongue onto the frame and front wheels of a tow vehicle -- rather than behind the bumper...

Here's the variety made by Hidden Hitch -- the brand I own simply because it was the least expensive "name brand" I could find. They offer them for all kinds of trailers.

Hidden Hitch

This page describes and explains them:
About Weight Distribution Hitches

I bought mine on sale at JC Whitney for $249 at a time when one of their specials was free shipping -- and these things are heavy.

I'm not trying to sell you one, nor this specific brand -- only to illustrate how that opens up even more options for you...

 

[tracdoc]

Without knowing more specifics on your Trooper (year, etc), I could only estimate your vehicle's GVWR.

3,000# sounded kinda' low for a beefy vehicle like a Trooper. In fact, I found the GVWR for an '01 standard Trooper to be 5,510# {HERE}. What is limiting you right now, is NOT the capacity of your vehicle, but the capacity of your current hitch.

As you noted, you can upgrade to a weight distributing arrangement on your current hitch to gain another 1,000#. Alternatively, for about the same (or less) money, you could remove your current hitch (and sell it to recoup some $) and install a 5,000# rated hitch. A 2" square "receiver" type hitch is mandatory IMO. Not that you will be towing 5,000#, but there's the unwritten "rule" in towing to go with a decent margin of over-capacity. The reason is that if there is a sudden mal-event (a swerve, fish-tailing on a slippery road, or even a sudden impact stop) the forces on the hitch go up tremendously, and those forces could snap the ball or the hitch itself. The same goes for the tie-downs. The "working load" for a tie-down is for a smooth towing condition. If you suddenly stop, the momentum of your load can easily out-strip the capacity of your straps, and "pop!" /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif your load becomes a missile. A 5G impact with a 2,000# load will put a 10,000# stress on the tie down. I found this "towing & tie-downs 101" to be very helpful {HERE}

I think you can manage with a single axle (3,500# w/ 15" wheel) to meet your requirements. Just to be safe, I would make sure that the trailer has brakes (at least surge, but electric better), and that the straps and hardware are sufficiently over-capacity. You'll tow more confidently and more importantly you'll be safer.

 

[hoaglagd]

Thanks for the info. Actually, the hitch I have is a "Hidden Hitch" model. It was supposed to be the heaviest hitch I could get for the vehicle. This is an older trooper (1991) that I keep for towing a boat. I think the old troopers were considerably smaller than newer troopers, so it all makes since. I have found a place locally that will build me a 5x13 trailer with tandem axles and 1 brake axle for $1550. The trailer will have 3500# axles and its total weight will be around 1000#. Its really a single axle trailer with an extra axle. The single axle version is rated for 3500# gvw. It will also cost me an additional $230 to get a brake controller installed on my vehicle. I will pursue the load equalizer. If it isn't too expensive, it may be worth the added margin of safety.

 

[KentT]

Sounds like you're certainly on the right track. I don't think you'll regret getting a tandem...

 

[tracdoc]

Wow! That sounds like a great unit and a sweet price.

You can get a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller for about $100 {HERE}. Since your vehicle is a '91 it may not be pre-wired for brake controller as are the later model trucks and some SUVs. The wiring may run you a few more bucks. I had my Tacoma wired for around $65. My current truck was pre-wired.

Good luck, and post some pictures when you get that new trailer /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[BobRip]

I would definately go with the brakes. You might even consider brakes on both axles. I paid around $150 for brakes on the second axle. I have brakes on both axles of the tow vehicle, so it makes sense to put them on the trailer. While reading some Chrysler literature, I noticed that they recommend brakes on any trailer over 1000 pounds, even thought the state of Va. only requires them at over 2800#.

Just to back this up, I was pulling my old trailer (no brakes) down a hill on my road and came to a turn, When I applied the brakes on the car the trailer started to fishtail and meanwhile a car appears around the turn. I got it under control, but just barely. I bought a new trailer with brakes in a few months.

Take care,

Bob Rip

 

[KentT]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Uh-oh! Completely off topic thread-jacking here...

I like those Simplicity Tractors! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I've got a late 60's Yeoman 627. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif )</font>
Then you should like this shot of my trailer enroute to the "Gathering of the Orange" show in NY last year... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
That's a 1969 Allis B-210 (now 'customized" with a late-model hydro tranny and 16 HP) on the left, a 1966 Allis Big Ten on the right that I assembled from 3 parts tractors. On the back is the cherry, original 1968 Simplicity Sovereign 3012V that prompted me to go to Minnesota and haul it back. It actually came from SW Wisconsin, nust across the river, but I went on over to MN to visit friends and pick up more stuff to help pay for the trip...

I sold the Big Ten with a FEL on it, in order to buy the Kubota, which I sold to buy the PT...

 

[MossRoad]

Look at those big, beautiful bug eyes! Nice tractors. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[cqaigy]

Hey, those are some pretty cool looking tractors!!

 

[KentT]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hey, those are some pretty cool looking tractors!! )</font>
Thanks. I don't wanna totally hihack this thread, but here's some more info and pics, if you're interested:

Builidng the Big Ten from parts

Big Ten with a Johnny Bucket and Johnny Box mounted

Putting the hydro in the B-210

 

[Barryh]

Nice job on the tractors Kent, very interesting for sure. I have been planning for some time now to collect old wheel horse tractors and restore them. One of these days I'll buy one for a starter. I see a larger shed some where in the future.

 

[California]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( This is an older trooper (1991) that I keep for towing a boat. I think the old troopers were considerably smaller than newer troopers -hoaglagd )</font>

That 1991 Trooper would be a twin to my 1988.

My two cents:

I rented a Uhaul car hauler and went to get my 'new' tractor. After it was loaded, I went over a truck scale and discovered I was towing far more than I expected, over 5,000 lbs. Handling was spooky and after a couple of miles I decided I was way over my head.

I'm certain my Trooper weighed only 3650 lbs empty and was rated to tow only 2,000 lbs. The hitches you can buy for it have a label 'certified for 3,000 lbs or vehicle capacity, whichever is less' which may be what you are looking at. I suggest look in the owner's manual to verify rated tow capacity.

For this Trooper I think the practical limit for short trips with a two axle trailer and brakes is around 3,000 total towed weight, or not much more than 2,000 if you intend to move smoothly with traffic.

I towed my tent trailer (1800 lbs) several thousand miles over ten years and that felt like any more weight would put the trailer in charge of where the Trooper was going to go.

Here's what I wrote about towing with the Trooper last year:

Towing 5000 lbs with a Trooper II

In summary, I feel the Trooper is too light to safely tow the load you are considering.

 

[ClintBlake]

You bring up some very good and important points. While I have towed my PT-422 in a single axle trailer behind a 97 Ford Aerostar, my primary tow vehicles are a 1-ton Ford Van and a Ford Excursion, both diesel and both around 7000 lbs. The Aerostar does okay if the tongue weight is correct but if it is too light, the trailer is very susceptible to sway which tends to take over driving the tow vehicle. If I am going far, or want to carry more than just a couple of implements, I always use one of the heavier tow vehicles and my 6x16 tandem axle enclosed trailer. Vehicles can be set up to tow up too and more than their own weight, but if you have a problem or make a mistake, they are not at all forgiving. There is nothing like heavy metal (and lots of it) for a tow vehicle. Even with the heavier vehicle it is still important to distribute the weight in the trailer properly and make sure everything is tied down so it can't shift. I once saw a trailer being towed by a van start swaying violently and fly off the tow vehicle after just a few oscillations. It happened so fast I don't think the driver knew what was going on until it was too late.

 

[tracdoc]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What is the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) for your tow vehicle? That is probably the most important primary consideration for towing. It is the maximum allowable weight including trailer + trailer cargo + passengers + trunk/bed cargo. That figure should be stamped on an inside door frame or available on-line. )</font>

I agree. If the GVWR is insufficient, all discussions regarding axles, brakes and other paraphernelia are pointless.

 

[KentT]

In my original answer to his post, I capitalized the "IF" statement regarding trailer towing capability to bring attention to it...

I would reiterate, though, that he's talking about trailering somewhere in the neighborhood of 3000-3500 lbs (including the weight of the trailer) on a dual axle trailer with electric brakes. This is far different than towing 5,000 lbs OR towing 2,500-3,000 on a single-axle.

Again, he needs to verify his trailer tow rating. IMO, even if his towing capacity is only rated at 3500 lbs, he is safe for short distances (which is his stated need) as long as he doesn't overload it beyond 3500 lbs....