Trailering a Branson 3510

[Red_rider]

Now that I'm getting ready to retire and will have more time to do things with my Branson, I'm wondering about trailering it to places to do some small jobs. I've got an 18 foot Aluma tilt trailer that I use to haul my cars, but I've never used it for the tractor. It is a conventional without sway bars. Axles are rated for 10K. My biggest question is whether I can use the straps I use for the cars or should I invest in chains and binders to tie down the tractor. The straps are 2" and rated at 8K working. My heaviest car weighs in around 4K - the tractor is just a bit heavier if I run with box blade or ditch blade on the back. D rings are secured into the deck and work well with the cars. If I use the straps I plan to cross them on the back (do that with cars) and will use an extra to secure the loader bucket. One trip I will have to make is to my dealer (160 miles each way) to get some "heavy" work done. I can cruise the interstate or take 4-lane divided highway to keep speeds down. All advice is welcome.

 

[crashz]

My tractor (est. 2600lbs) loaded rear tires (est. 900lbs), loader (est. 900lbs) and rotary cutter (est. 700lbs) ride fine on my 18ft, 10k equipment trailer. But I wish I had two more feet of length, as the cutter tail wheel hangs off the deck and the loader bucket has to be placed just right on the front lip for everything to fit. No room for adjustment.

If you are using a car trailer, you may want to make sure your ramps are sturdy enough for the tractor too. Probably are, but I have seen some puny ramps on car trailers. For that matter you will want to make sure the trailer's load capability can handle the weight of your Branson. Make sure to include the weight of tractor, ballast and attachments. Your machine is a bit bigger and about 1000lbs heavier than mine, which is fine for a trailer with a 10K lb GVW, but not for a 7000lb GVW.

 

[TractorTYMe]

Should be fine on most specs in capacity and anchor points.

 

[WranglerX]

Weight of basic tractor is 3640 pound's, plus what ever attachments. Trailer should be fine as designed..... Most straps are rated at 2-3000 pounds working with burst to around 8-10,000 pounds... Strapping down a tractor should be no different than a car IF STRAPS ARE IN GOOD REPAIR....

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

Now that I'm getting ready to retire and will have more time to do things with my Branson, I'm wondering about trailering it to places to do some small jobs. I've got an 18 foot Aluma tilt trailer that I use to haul my cars, but I've never used it for the tractor. It is a conventional without sway bars. Axles are rated for 10K. My biggest question is whether I can use the straps I use for the cars or should I invest in chains and binders to tie down the tractor. The straps are 2" and rated at 8K working. My heaviest car weighs in around 4K - the tractor is just a bit heavier if I run with box blade or ditch blade on the back. D rings are secured into the deck and work well with the cars. If I use the straps I plan to cross them on the back (do that with cars) and will use an extra to secure the loader bucket. One trip I will have to make is to my dealer (160 miles each way) to get some "heavy" work done. I can cruise the interstate or take 4-lane divided highway to keep speeds down. All advice is welcome.

You may want to check on insurance on your tractor when used off your home acreage, your liability, tractor damage etc. Working only with friends and family, you wont need a business license or business insurance. Make sure your tractor doesn't lift too much weight off of your truck when loading. I use a couple of cheap HF jack stands under the back of the trailer otherwise my truck wants to slide on loose material.

 

[4570Man]

I don’t like straps on equipment. It’s too easy to cut them. Use edge protection if you go that route but I’d recommend using chains. I’d be surprised if the 2” strap has an 8k working load too.

 

[Red_rider]

Thanks for all of the advice. My trailer is a tilt so no ramps to worry about. I have seen several posts about straps getting cut on sharp edges. I keep several pieces of leather in my strap bag to put on those places where the strap might run on a sharp edge. I just purchased a new set of 2" straps last fall and they haven't been used yet. I made a typo on the straps - 5K working, 9K burst. I haven't been able to find a decent set of chains and binders for less than $500.

I listed the weight at a little over 4K - that's with tire ballast, ditch blade and loader - so I should be fine on weight. The trailer weighs in at 1800 lbs. I'm leaning toward staying off the interstate at speeds of 70+ and sticking to the divided highway. Takes a little longer, but won't have to deal with as much truck traffic blowing by me.

I've heard about the insurance issue before. Most of what I'll be doing is for family, but still planning to check with my insurance company regarding coverage while transporting, etc.

 

[Dennisfly]

Thanks for all of the advice. My trailer is a tilt so no ramps to worry about. I have seen several posts about straps getting cut on sharp edges. I keep several pieces of leather in my strap bag to put on those places where the strap might run on a sharp edge. I just purchased a new set of 2" straps last fall and they haven't been used yet. I made a typo on the straps - 5K working, 9K burst. I haven't been able to find a decent set of chains and binders for less than $500.

I listed the weight at a little over 4K - that's with tire ballast, ditch blade and loader - so I should be fine on weight. The trailer weighs in at 1800 lbs. I'm leaning toward staying off the interstate at speeds of 70+ and sticking to the divided highway. Takes a little longer, but won't have to deal with as much truck traffic blowing by me.

I've heard about the insurance issue before. Most of what I'll be doing is for family, but still planning to check with my insurance company regarding coverage while transporting, etc.

Regarding cross strapping, you may want to watch this: