Trailer axle/tire question

   / Trailer axle/tire question #1  

zmansmac

Gold Member
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
256
Location
Arcadia Township, Michigan
Tractor
Kubota B7500
I decided to make my first trailer because I got a good deal on some tube steel. I also just got a good deal on a couple of used 3500 lb axles. I plan on making a flat, non-tilting trailer with no beavertail. The axles I bought are the drop type and the springs can go on either top or bottom. What I'm trying to figure out is what is the smallest diameter tire I can use. Are there some charts for this or a way to measure and calculate? :confused:
 
   / Trailer axle/tire question #2  
I have a trailer like what you are describing. I currently have 235/75R-15 tires. That is the largest size that I am aware of (for the 3500lb axles). The smallest is 205/75R-15. This tire is smaller and thinner than what I am running. I am a little curious why you want to go small? You will want and need ground clearance as you drive. I would strongly suggest that you add brakes if the axles are not equipped. Otherwise, sounds like you have a plan.
 
   / Trailer axle/tire question #3  
Oh, I forgot the most important part. The tire and axle mfg's have charts. Try Tirerack.com for tires and dexteraxle.com for axles or google it...
 
   / Trailer axle/tire question
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Mike,

Thanks for the info, I'll check them out. I wanted to keep the tires on the smaller side for less ground clearance and a lower CG with a load. And smaller tires are generally less expensive it seems. I realize that larger tires can mean heavier loads but that will not be an issue with me. Another advantage is that my ramps can be shorter. I'm thinking about 13 of 14 inch tires but I wanted to try and figure out how much clearance I'll have before I put everything together and buy tires. I have a pontoon trailer with 10 inch tires and clearance has not been a problem.;) BTW, one axle is an idler and one has electric brakes which leads me to another question. Does it matter if it's the front or rear axle that has the brakes? I'm guessing the rear position would be better.

Zman
 
   / Trailer axle/tire question #5  
two problems you will run into and some of my experiences with tandem trailers and tires:

first, smaller tires, in general, can carry less max weight. with two 3500 lb axles, you are building a 7,000 lb trailer. that means you need each tire to carry a minimum of 1750 lbs. you should also have a decent safety margin (you will need it!). on my 15" diameter tires on my 20', 7000 lb trailer, each tire in the load C range can only carry a hair over 1800 lbs. these tires cost about 85 dollars to replace mounted and balanced. i know this because i replace several a year due to overloading and due to the crappy nature of the el cheapo tires that came with the trailer when new. to go up to a load d or e, now you are talking 110 to 150 each mounted and balanced. that is 600 for four new tires! plus, a spare. also keep in mind on a tandem trailer, it is recommended to replace both tires on a side if you have a blowout when loaded because the good tire on that side bears all the load when the second tire blows out and it damages the seemingly good tire internally when you overload it by twice its recommended capacity. best to avoid blowouts by sizing the tires with a good safety margin.

second, you do not want an odd size trailer tire you have to order. you want a commonly available tire and a spare because you will get flats. on a tandem trailer it is very easy to go from a low tire to a ruined tire because you won't notice it right away when going down the hiway. you want to be able to pick up a new tire at any decent size town you happen to be close to. you don't want to have to park you nice trailer in the median in these hard economic times. it's just too tempting a prize for someone in a desperate situation. start with a common size tire rated for trailers and carry a spare.

hope that helps! i run 175/75-15ST in load range C. i have found locally that mastertrac tires last the longest in this load range.

as far as clearance and COG, low is good but it depends on how long the trailer is. longer requires higher clearance so the tail will clear when going over uneven ground. with larger tires, you can probably just go with higher fenders to get whatever clearance you need.

i'll also mention that probably the most critical design decision you face is the location of the axles on the frame. farther back tows more smoothly and less chance of fishtailing, but requires the tow vehicle to carry more tongue weight. make sure you understand the tongue weight relationship and the real world ability of your tow vehicle to be comfortable when towing with whatever weight you decide to put on the ball. sometimes this is the same as the manufacturer's specs and sometimes not.

one last thing about fabbing a tandem. professional builders have a good feel for how strong their steel is and how much reinforcement to add. a hobby builder or first time builder will be tempted to over do this which adds a lot of weight to the trailer. take a look at some designs you like before you start. my trailer weighs about 2200 lbs empty. that eats quite a bit of the 7k load capacity. don't ruin your hauling capacity by overbuilding the trailer and adding too much weight.

so, there it is! pick a common tire size in your area. pick tires large enough to carry the weight plus safety margin in the load range you want to pay for. locate axles accordingly. and yes, i would put brakes on one axle.

good luck and happy building!

amp
 
   / Trailer axle/tire question #6  
Does it matter if it's the front or rear axle that has the brakes? I'm guessing the rear position would be better.

Zman

Yes they go on the back axle. I've seen many built wrong though;)
 
   / Trailer axle/tire question #7  
Yes they go on the back axle. I've seen many built wrong though;)

I respectfully disagree here. If you are only going with one axel, brake dual axel trailer, think of where is most of the weight. If you remember right, trailers are normally built in 80/20 weight placement with 80 toward front. Therefore the angle of the trailer will be forward whether its loaded or not and the trailer will be more efficient braking in the front. If you have seen many built wrong, think of why did they build it that way ?;)
 
   / Trailer axle/tire question #8  
Mike,
Does it matter if it's the front or rear axle that has the brakes? I'm guessing the rear position would be better.

Zman

Great discussion. I just installed brakes on the front axle of my tandem. My thinking was not only more static weight up forward but even more so when you apply the brakes. Front brakes on your truck do something like 75% of the work. That being said they sure seem to lock up easy. I have not had a heavy load on it yet with the brakes, maybe 800-1000 lbs. I can manually apply just the trailer brakes and they will lock up before you can feel a lot of slowing down. Wondering if they would act the same on the back.

DRL
 
   / Trailer axle/tire question #9  
Brakes should go on the front axle, unless I have been doing it wrong. Weight shift when braking tends to pick up the rear axle, lowering the amount of traction/friction and decreasing braking efficency.
If someone can give me better reasons, I am all ears!
David from jax
 
   / Trailer axle/tire question #10  
two problems you will run into and some of my experiences with tandem trailers and tires:

first, smaller tires, in general, can carry less max weight. with two 3500 lb axles, you are building a 7,000 lb trailer. that means you need each tire to carry a minimum of 1750 lbs. you should also have a decent safety margin (you will need it!). on my 15" diameter tires on my 20', 7000 lb trailer, each tire in the load C range can only carry a hair over 1800 lbs. these tires cost about 85 dollars to replace mounted and balanced. i know this because i replace several a year due to overloading and due to the crappy nature of the el cheapo tires that came with the trailer when new. to go up to a load d or e, now you are talking 110 to 150 each mounted and balanced. that is 600 for four new tires! plus, a spare. also keep in mind on a tandem trailer, it is recommended to replace both tires on a side if you have a blowout when loaded because the good tire on that side bears all the load when the second tire blows out and it damages the seemingly good tire internally when you overload it by twice its recommended capacity. best to avoid blowouts by sizing the tires with a good safety margin.

second, you do not want an odd size trailer tire you have to order. you want a commonly available tire and a spare because you will get flats. on a tandem trailer it is very easy to go from a low tire to a ruined tire because you won't notice it right away when going down the hiway. you want to be able to pick up a new tire at any decent size town you happen to be close to. you don't want to have to park you nice trailer in the median in these hard economic times. it's just too tempting a prize for someone in a desperate situation. start with a common size tire rated for trailers and carry a spare.

hope that helps! i run 175/75-15ST in load range C. i have found locally that mastertrac tires last the longest in this load range.

as far as clearance and COG, low is good but it depends on how long the trailer is. longer requires higher clearance so the tail will clear when going over uneven ground. with larger tires, you can probably just go with higher fenders to get whatever clearance you need.

i'll also mention that probably the most critical design decision you face is the location of the axles on the frame. farther back tows more smoothly and less chance of fishtailing, but requires the tow vehicle to carry more tongue weight. make sure you understand the tongue weight relationship and the real world ability of your tow vehicle to be comfortable when towing with whatever weight you decide to put on the ball. sometimes this is the same as the manufacturer's specs and sometimes not.

one last thing about fabbing a tandem. professional builders have a good feel for how strong their steel is and how much reinforcement to add. a hobby builder or first time builder will be tempted to over do this which adds a lot of weight to the trailer. take a look at some designs you like before you start. my trailer weighs about 2200 lbs empty. that eats quite a bit of the 7k load capacity. don't ruin your hauling capacity by overbuilding the trailer and adding too much weight.

so, there it is! pick a common tire size in your area. pick tires large enough to carry the weight plus safety margin in the load range you want to pay for. locate axles accordingly. and yes, i would put brakes on one axle.amp

I would not put brakes on 1 axle.
 

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