trail grooming..box-blade or rear-blade?

[Gamemaster]

I have bull-dozed/chainsaw-cut trails throughout my property. I would like to smooth them out ( low-high spots/uneven ), but also dig a trench down one side of my northern trail because water run-off from the neighboring field flows across it and keeps it muddy/soft. Money is kinda tight so buying both implements is not possible. I have been brush-hogging some of the trails for 2yrs, so there is grass/weeds growing, but the ride is bumpy/jerky.Which of two is best choice ?.

 

[greg_g]

Assuming you also need to get rid of a hump in the middle, it sounds like a box blade would be the better choice.

//greg//

 

[bontai_Joe]

Some box blades can be converted into back blades, which will offer you options either way.

 

[DaryleD]

I would guess, that a box blade would be better. It probably would be easier to trench the sides with a regular rear blade though? I have never seen the boxblades that you can convert to rear blade , but it might be a great bang for the buck implement. If it wasn't for the side ditching, I would even try a landscape rake where you have already bulldozed the trail, which I am assuming has no more little stumps anywhere. Good luck! Let us know what you decide, and show us some pictures of it before, during and after doing it if you can.
Daryle.

 

[Gamemaster]

Do you have any brand names for this conversion type ?

 

[greg_g]

It probably would be easier to trench the sides with a regular rear blade though? I have never seen the boxblades that you can convert to rear blade , but it might be a great bang for the buck implement.

Never heard of a convertible box blade either. Would be interesting to see how it could be indexed.

Light duty trenching is possible with a box blade, all you have to do is stagger the lift arm height. Tighten the lift arm adjustment all the way up on one side, loosen it down to about the desired trench depth on the other side. When you drop the blade over the edge, it will then cut at an angle. Since there will be downforce created by the cutting action, this is a job that should also include draft control. If your tractor doesn't have draft control, you'll have to watch constantly - with your hand on the position control

//greg//

 

[bontai_Joe]

Agrifab makes a convetible one, but it's only 42" wide
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_744048_744048

I had assumed some of the larger units did the same thing, but from searching the web, I see I was pretty much wrong, they are all welded, not bolted, which makes sense in the strength required. Sorry to raise anyone's hopes on this one.

 

[bontai_Joe]

Agrifab makes a convertible one, but it's only 42" wide
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_744048_744048

I had assumed some of the larger units did the same thing, but from searching the web, I see I was pretty much wrong, they are all welded, not bolted, which makes sense in the strength required. Sorry to raise anyone's hopes on this one.

 

[L3650]

Many makers of rear blades offer side plates on their products.

http://www.landpride.com/products/prod_rb/prod_rb25.html

 

[woodswolf1]

Hi, I had a big excavator come in and clear the woods and old fence on my property. I then used a BB to smooth it out and remove what was left of the roots. It took hours and a dozen passes, but it worked out real well. Beware though, I hit a big root with the BB and about snagged myself off the tractor. Now I know what that seat belt is for! I've trenched with the side of my BB too. I ripped it up first with one of the tines and then tilted the BB to gouge it out better. It was a little rough and ugly looking, but it worked.