Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[ptsg]

Is the threaded fitting on most hydraulic cylinders the same? I have no idea what's on mine. I have been meaning to look in to this for years, but never gotten around to it. That link just might get me off my butt to get it done.

No. That one in particular, being sold from a Holland supplier, is 3/8" BSPP fittings.

 

[John_Mc]

Nope. Many are ORB, maybe even most hydraulic top links, but some are NPT. Most cat.1 or cat.2's are probably 1/2" port sizes (1/2" NPT or ORB#8), but even that could vary.

Nuts! I can figure out the size and thread type on my cylinder, but that link is the only place I'm finding that offers the whole kit. I was hoping not to have replace the whole hydraulic cylinder with a new one that has the double piloted check valve already installed. Looks as though I'm looking at a $200+ project rather than a $70 one.

 

[WinterDeere]

Best to just remove a hose from your cylinder to check port type, if it's not labeled in the documentation you got when purchasing it. Heck, might be a good idea to double-check anyway.

There are three types of fittings used on probably 99% of tractor hydraulics in this country:

1. ORB = "O-Ring Boss". A straight thread with an o-ring at the shoulder. Google for an image. Size is in 1/16"s, so ORB #8 is 1/2", but that's internal pipe size (IPS), so thread is 1/4" larger. An ORB #8 has a 3/4"-16 thread.

2. ORFS = "O-Ring Face Seal". You see a lot of these on valve manifolds, not so much on cylinders. It's a straight thread with an o-ring on the end (or "face") of the fitting.

3. NPT = "National Pipe Tapered". Tapered thread measuring approximately 1/4" over nominal size, again according to IPS, so a 1/2" NPT has an actual OD closer to 3/4". These require sealing tape or dope, no other fittings do.

Google has plenty of images of each, and we can help you find a double-piloted check valve and required hardware, once we know the fitting size and type.

BSPP is common in Europe and other parts of the world, but much less so in USA. Like almost anything British and mechanical, it's inferior to American and German systems.

 

[ptsg]

Nuts! I can figure out the size and thread type on my cylinder, but that link is the only place I'm finding that offers the whole kit. I was hoping not to have replace the whole hydraulic cylinder with a new one that has the double piloted check valve already installed.

Here you can find the check valves and all its parts: Hydraulic Top Link Repair Parts

EDIT: You can even get the check valve block with NPT ports.

 

[BackRoad]

This should go in the mod thread, but I like the company on this thread better!

Proof of Concept Test: Even with a Quick Hitch, I manually connect the top pin on a majority of my implements due to design of the implements.

...And I end up needing to reach through the back of the tractor to the Top Link valve control to adjust the top link. Bit of a stretch and a PIA.

Been thinking about it - - - and I have $2.99 invested in the solution, modeled after an old fashioned choke.

The wire caught my eye at Home Chepo. Sign holder, with fair amount of stiffness. The rest was on hand. A couple of tiewraps and an R cotter pin.

It works!

R Cotter pin fits very tight on the lever, the tiewrap was added just for insurance. The other tiewrap is loose, acting as a guide to hold the wire in place, and anchored under the tool box.

I may make the wire slightly shorter overall, but it's in a clear location with nothing placing it in jeopardy.

I'll see what is necessary to make it more "industrial" if it doesn't hang together.

 

[FriendwithTractor]

This should go in the mod thread, but I like the company on this thread better!

Proof of Concept Test: Even with a Quick Hitch, I manually connect the top pin on a majority of my implements due to design of the implements.

...And I end up needing to reach through the back of the tractor to the Top Link valve control to adjust the top link. Bit of a stretch and a PIA.

Been thinking about it - - - and I have $2.99 invested in the solution, modeled after an old fashioned choke.

The wire caught my eye at Home Chepo. Sign holder, with fair amount of stiffness. The rest was on hand. A couple of tiewraps and an R cotter pin.

It works!

R Cotter pin fits very tight on the lever, the tiewrap was added just for insurance. The other tiewrap is loose, acting as a guide to hold the wire in place, and anchored under the tool box.

I may make the wire slightly shorter overall, but it's in a clear location with nothing placing it in jeopardy.

I'll see what is necessary to make it more "industrial" if it doesn't hang together.View attachment 1175230View attachment 1175231View attachment 1175232View attachment 1175233

Clever solution! Well done.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Nuts! I can figure out the size and thread type on my cylinder, but that link is the only place I'm finding that offers the whole kit. I was hoping not to have replace the whole hydraulic cylinder with a new one that has the double piloted check valve already installed. Looks as though I'm looking at a $200+ project rather than a $70 one.

Just a comment on POCV's - I bought a used M5640 and it came with a hydraulic top link that had POCV's on it. When I put an implement on the 3ph, like a winch or box blade, and lifted it off the ground and then extended to top link the top link would extend with a lot of chatter and jerkyness. I learned that the problem was that when I feathered open the valve to extent the top link the pressure would build and then the check valve would open. But with the aid of gravity the implement would drop fast enough to lower the pressure below the pilot pressure and the check valve would close. Repeating this cycle made for the jerky motion. The solution was a flow restrictor fitting on the ram end of the cylinder.

gg

 

[John_Mc]

Just a comment on POCV's - I bought a used M5640 and it came with a hydraulic top link that had POCV's on it. When I put an implement on the 3ph, like a winch or box blade, and lifted it off the ground and then extended to top link the top link would extend with a lot of chatter and jerkyness. I learned that the problem was that when I feathered open the valve to extent the top link the pressure would build and then the check valve would open. But with the aid of gravity the implement would drop fast enough to lower the pressure below the pilot pressure and the check valve would close. Repeating this cycle made for the jerky motion. The solution was a flow restrictor fitting on the ram end of the cylinder.

gg

The flow restrictor is another thing I've been planning to add on both my top and side link - in my case because it is sometimes tough to feather things enough to do fine adjustments. You don't recall what size orifice you used, do you?

 

[WinterDeere]

1/32" works very well on a 3" cylinder. Scale yours accordingly, by r^2 or d^2.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FBOY4YS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Gordon Gould]

The flow restrictor is another thing I've been planning to add on both my top and side link - in my case because it is sometimes tough to feather things enough to do fine adjustments. You don't recall what size orifice you used, do you?

I have 1/32" orifices on 2-1/2" cylinders on both tractors. They work really well. Mine are 1/2" NPTF Male - Female Swivel. So they thread directly into my Ag Quick Connects. Got them at Champlain Equipment.

gg