Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Jstpssng]

Yeah I could also go with stainless steel bridge, that will last along time to. I'm almost will to wager red oak timbers will easily last 10 years, lets say a box of LaBree's chocolate coconut donuts...

Probably the best wood you could use is Tamarack. It's one of the more rot resistant species we have here and it's cheap.

But I'm not the one who said that he's looking for something to last 10 or 20 years so...

 

[Oldpath05]

I was hoping someone could take a wild guess,, after trucking, is the value $100 per load,, or $2,000 per load?
or a good guess of somewhere that might be a little closer?

I like guessing, I'd say 4000 Bd feet/load, $300.00 for trucking. But that trailer truck load has lot of center rot to me which would make the load worth $1000.00-$1500.00

 

[Oldpath05]

One of the biggest reasons why I chose Norwood over Woodmizer is, on Norwood everything can be added on and I like add-on's. I do like Norwoods log dog manual setup though, I suppose most mills are good even the HF brand.

 

[Oldpath05]

Probably the best wood you could use is Tamarack. It's one of the more rot resistant species we have here and it's cheap.

But I'm not the one who said that he's looking for something to last 10 or 20 years so...

I have maybe 2 or 3 Tamerack trees, the biggest one is about 10". With a saw mill wooden bridges can be sawed out several times and I still say an oak bridge will last 10 years, I even think hemlock will. Wooden bridges have been around long time, it's not a new idea.

 

[Oldpath05]

Common problem with the 562XP is people not knowing how to warm start it. The start button design is not intuitive.

I need that translated down to my level.

 

[BrokenTrack]

I can now understand why you didn't like your Norwood BSM, you are comparing it to a completely different class of Woodmizer BSM... Instead of saying the Norwood was junk, you should just say you bought the wrong mill for what you wanted to do.

I am not sure how you can say that. It is a sawmill, and it is supposed to saw logs. Yes, using different means I can make it work, but when other sawmills do not have these deficiencies, then it makes them a better sawmill.

Yes, everything can be attributed to operator error, but if you break a blade because you must back the saw out of a cut because the headrig is located too close to the track, then that is a DESIGN FLAW. And if a company puts on a idler pulley bracket that flexes, it is a DESIGN FLAW. And if a company makes a frame that flexes from logs that it is designed to saw, then it is a DESIGN Flaw.

But other sawmills I have had, have not had these issues. Sure, it can saw lumber, but it takes a lot more effort to do.

Yes, the Norwood is the equivalent of low budget car like the Dodge Neon, but just as a person would suggest a car of the caliber is not worth buying even though it is cheap, so it is with the Norwood Sawmill. For a little more money, a person can buy the Thomas Bandsaw Mill, or a Woodmizer, and have a lot better sawmill that they do not need to fuss with, in order to get lumber from logs.

I have been around sawmills all my life, had a few different types, and even built my own sawmills. I know sawmills, and the Norwood was by far the worst sawmill I ever worked with. My father has the same experience as I do, and he did not like it either.

 

[BrokenTrack]

I was hoping someone could take a wild guess,, after trucking, is the value $100 per load,, or $2,000 per load?
or a good guess of somewhere that might be a little closer?

No way to tell, to be honest with you.

Everyone likes to go by how big a log is, but if a logger cuts the hardwood log at the wrong spot, and includes just one knot, then it can devalue the whole log by half or better.

Crook, the amount of heartwood, rot, and the species that is currently in vogue for the building industry, all play a part in it.

It is one of the reasons why I cut so many Mat Logs. There is no scale. As long as the log is 16'-6" long, and 10 inches or bigger on the top, and of the proper species: I get $400 per thousand.

A load like that, in the log lengths where I live, and at going prices, I would expect to get about $1100.

 

[BrokenTrack]

Common problem with the 562XP is people not knowing how to warm start it. The start button design is not intuitive.

Perhaps, but no one has talked much about the lack of power the saw cannot seem to develop for its CC size.

Again, I am not alone in my dislike of this saw in a professional setting, but as the dealership said, it is a cheap saw where you run it for a year, then trade it in for another. In doing that, it does put wood in the yard, and gets a person money, versus that of other saws that have a longer lifespan.

Option A: Buy a 562XP and run it for a year then trade it in. After four years=
($750-$350=$400 per year, times 4 years=$1600)

Option B: Buy a better saw for $1500 and run it for 4 years
(after 4 years buy a new saw)

Either chainsaw will cost you the same amount of money. The better saw will be worn out, and not have much resale value, but any it does have, would be off-set by the tax deduction a person could take for the yearly Husky purchase.

I tried option A, but do not think I will do that again, I just like having more power with my chainsaws.

 

[hunt4570]

It was just my way of saying hey there.................

Well hey there...

 

[hunt4570]

Red oak here will have carpenters building with it every year for sure...

Seems like a pain to build with, other than door, trim , cabinets and such..