Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly

/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #21  
Generally, top of the bucket, one in the center and one on each end.
I also weld one on each side of the back of the bucket so I can position the bucket over an implement, chain it, then pick it up and carry it up on the trailer or where ever and have an implement in the 3pt..
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #23  
Kens bolt on hooks is a member here. Solid hooks and clevises that are bolt on.
(He has green tractors though but still seems to be a great guy!)
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #24  
This suggests it WILL be prudent, and safer, to fill rears?

Wheel weights hang in the rim several inches off the ground. Filling the rears puts the weight on the ground. AKA: lower center of gravity/more stability.
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #25  
Nice tractor. I'd also fill the tires unless your worried about your lawn. As other suggest keep the load as low to the ground as possible. Keep a hand on the loader control amd dont be afraid to push the stick forward and ditch the load if you feel a rear wheel lifting if you start to tip you dont have much time to lower the cg and keep it between the tires
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly
  • Thread Starter
#26  
lennyzx11, thanks, I'll check them out.
Sysop, good reminder of basic physics.
xring100, not worried about lawn, the less to mow the better for me ("she" sees it differently:)). Quick action is a good suggestion, but so is your caution that there won't be much time. Low and slow for me.
Thank you all!
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #27  
Dont go down steep hills in 2WD.. Always use 4WD. What can happens is as the weight distribution shifts forward going down hill front first, it puts more weight on the front wheels, and less on the rear wheels. If you have a loaded bucket up front, that is more weight on the front and less on the rear. if you don't have sufficient ballast on the rear then the rear tires get "light" and an unstoppable skid down hill can occur. Hitting the brakes wont help at all as your tractor picks up speed.. only dropping the bucket on the ground will slow you down, else you just have to hold on until the ground flattens out, or if you had a plow on the back or something like that to act as an anchor then lower that too.

If you are in 4WD since the front wheels are then attached to the drivetrain thru the front propeller shaft and other drive train components then the front tires contact patch also adds to the overall contact patch with the ground. This can prevent the skid from happening in the first place.. Also enough rear ballast to offset the front weight can help prevent this as well. If/when this happens to you, be prepared to clean the seat. Then you start remembering to use 4WD going down hills too...:shocked:
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #28  
Also with your ROPS up, be ever vigilant of your overhead clearance. Going into a garage or going under a large tree limb can easily lift the front end of the tractor instantly, and depending on your speed could be disastrous. Always think "clearance" When working next to a building with Front End Loader (FEL) and/or rear implement attached, be always cognizant of your clearances up front and behind as you turn. Many a Newbie has taken the corner out of his house and the door out of his pickup truck with either the FEL or some long rear implement.

So watch your front end, watch your rear end, watch each rear tire's clearance and watch that ROPS clearance overhead.. Let's see, you need 5 eyes to do all of that. :)

The biggest newbie mistake of all is carrying the bucket up high especially with a load in it.. Never turn with a loaded bucket up high.. Always carry your bucket as low as practical without running the risk of hitting an obstacle on the ground.

When traversing any slope, be very watchful for low spots on the low side of the tractor and high spots on the high side of the tractor. A slope that is perfectly safe to traverse becomes unsafe the instant your low side tire goes in a hole or your high side tire runs over a rock. You can quickly find yourself laying on your side wondering what the "heck" just happened. This is especially true when you bucket is loaded and you have it raised too high.

Most of the overturned tractors pictures we see, and I have seen a bunch of them, will have the FEL raised. Remember when you don't know, go low and slow.

I know I know I make tractors sound like a death trap, but the wise man learns from the mistakes of others. A fella not so wise learns from his own mistakes. An idiot doesn't learn from either.
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #29  
If you have any hills, try to avoid going across them. If you have to regularly, spread the tires as far as possible and then load them. Pay attention to your pucker factor. Your butt is more intelligent than your brain when it comes to sidehills. Go slow until you know your property and your tractor. Then don't go too fast.
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #30  
You have a real nice set of equipment. Using it will put a smile on your face. Enjoy.
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #31  
The only place pulling should be done from is at the drawbar mounting below/at the rear end, down low, where center of gravity is lowest. Bucket hooks get installed exactly where they do not belong. Your owner's manual will tell you to pull from the drawbar, not the 3PH, or bucket, with exception of implements made to be drawn, like a plow, or box blade, using the 3PH. If you have quick attach bucket/grapple, etc. make absolutely sure you secure the locking lever(s) before moving away after installing the bucket, etc.

Congrats on the new tractor! Remember to always set the brake, turn OFF the engine, and set all implements and the bucket on the ground before detractoring* from the tractor.
NEVER use your hand, always cardboard or wood scrap, to seek out hydraulic fluid leaks.

Grease ALL zerks frequently.

Go slow. Mistakes can be avoided with time to make corrections; not in all situations, but most benefit from the extra time to correct....

Am I supposed to use a larger font for guys 70 and over?!:) I'm only 64, and need glasses to do just about everything.:confused3:

* I made up this word: detractoring: (just like deplaning)
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #32  
One thing nobody has said, READ-THE-MANUAL. It will go a long way to keeping you out of trouble that you don't YET know exists. The manual also saves big on the "ignorance tax".
You haven't said if you are on flat ground or not. If on slopes have the wheels set wide, and load them. Large stability gains for small cost.
Be aware that you can still roll on flat ground if you do a sudden sharp turn at speed, something many people don't understand.
If in doubt ask.
Lastly, Have Fun!
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #33  
Ya hey dere cheesehead (from a former flatlander) When on hills, keep the heavy end of the tractor uphill. If you have a full bucket in the loader- back down the hill or forward up the hill, other way around if the load is on the back end of the tractor.
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly
  • Thread Starter
#34  
K0ua, your solid explanations help my brain give these the respect they deserve, thanks.

RaydaKub, good points. Will carry toilet paper in tool box until my butt tunes to machine and property. I did not plan to get this large of unit, was set on the L-series, but the dealer had this 2015 demo with ten hours on it, that had been sold to another guy. But that guy backed out on the deal, got a skid steer instead, and the dealer was offering this at a good price. They’d already tricked it out with quick-attach, extra front and rear hydraulics, wheel weights and some things I still have to learn about. Made sense to me financially, but also physically. When I drove each, I “felt” more stable and a better fit with the larger unit (perhaps my first experience trusting my pucker factor?)!

2458n, thank you, smiles already emerging!

Coyote machine, These “basics” are akin to a solid foundation for a house — with them in place, the rest goes much, much better. Thanks. (Larger font) ;)

redman135, The manuals will be my new bible, and your wise counsel cements that in my brain.

dadster4, Thanks, that was new, important information, and yes, I do have some slopes here.
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #35  
Do yourself a favor and take off and put on your loader now. Read the instructions in your loader manual. As long as you are on flat ground it is incredibly easy and about 3min.

There are times when you will be more agile with better visibility without it (like mowing arround things). If you know how easy it is then you are more likely to take it off.
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Do yourself a favor and take off and put on your loader now. Read the instructions in your loader manual. As long as you are on flat ground it is incredibly easy and about 3min.

There are times when you will be more agile with better visibility without it (like mowing arround things). If you know how easy it is then you are more likely to take it off.

Great suggestion. Watched a video of a guy doing this and was -- am -- amazed at how quick and easy. Your point is well taken, having done it before needing, makes me more likely to do it when needed. Thank you.
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #37  
I added hooks to the ouside edges of my loader bucket. I didn't put one in the middle because I have seen buckets buckled from too much stress along that unreinforced edge. I wish I had had the top edge reinforce and then added the third, middle hook (or, maybe, a 2" hitch receiver with hook points?).

The first summer of use will likely teach you that it is important to remember to raise all attachments/implements off the ground before you drive away from your parking spot.
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly
  • Thread Starter
#38  
rd_macgregor, thanks for tweaking advice on loader hooks, will consider carefully. I raised horses in Colorado before moving to Wisconsin. Driving off with the horse trailer loaded, but with the front "wheel" still locked to the ground, DID train me to check it all, then to double check. Good advice.
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly #39  
All very good advice . Be especially observant working on or around trees . Dead branches can fall on you . Live branches can load up a bunch of energy and unload it very quick as in pushing piles around . Watch what you are running over as trees are hard on the underside of a tractor . If ever in doubt about what you are about to attempt , rethink it or get some help . If you are working alone think about a plan if something goes wrong . Just trying to help , enjoy that new machine , Kevin .
 
/ Tractorin' -- Good, Bad, Ugly
  • Thread Starter
#40  
All valid comments, Kevin, and I'm grateful for your help. Considering "energy" in all forms, and how it becomes a force working a machine, is vital. Thinking and reconsidering is especially important for a newbie my age.

My son-in-law always alerts me when he's hunting on my place, even though he knows he can come and go as he pleases. He told me it was so that at least one person, me, knows where he's at, in case he doesn't show up for supper. Thanks!
 

Marketplace Items

2015 Ford Escape SUV (A61574)
2015 Ford Escape...
2019 Takeuchi TL8 Track Loader with 72in Tooth Bucket (A63689)
2019 Takeuchi TL8...
2015 HINO 268 4X2 S/A 26FT NON CDL BOX TRUCK (A59911)
2015 HINO 268 4X2...
KMC 6-36 (A64119)
KMC 6-36 (A64119)
Case SV280B (A62177)
Case SV280B (A62177)
2021 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 4x4 Crew Cab Pickup Truck (A61573)
2021 Chevrolet...
 
Top