Tractor storage - use a Shipping Container?

[Highbeam]

My tare weight was in the 5000 lb range too. The dozer did not damage the wooden floor of the container except for where the oil leaked but that oil should prevent rot even better than the fancy marine plywood they used.

I am not sure if a tractor could just drag it along. I moved the container with the dozer and it wasn't very easy. The front of the container digs in like a tractor pull sled. It's not the weight as much as the brick shape digging in. It sure leaves a smooth road though.

 

[stumpfield]

Loading an aluminum container would be far easier than steel. A ratchet come-a-long, some rope and a couple pieces of 4" PVC pipe to roll it on. It should go right up onto a flatbead trailer easily. Hook the comealong up by the A frame of the trailer and use rope or chain between it and the container. It is slow work, but can be done in 15-20 minutes that way. Drag it 5-10', then reset the ropes and comealong and repeat several times.

That's it! A ratchet come-a-long. Thanks for the great suggestion. I saw the pro's do it with a tilt-bed truck and pull it up with an electric winch. I didn't think I can setup something like that. So, with the trailer ramps down, I can just drag it a little at a time with the come-a-long. I was thinking of jacking it up and slide the trailer underneath. ...still trying to figure out how am I going to back the trailer perfectly straight without touching the jacks or the whole thing crash down.

 

[Highbeam]

That's it! A ratchet come-a-long.

I don't know guys. I loaded my dead tractor onto my car hauler trailer (dovetail) with a comealong and it was not a fun evening. It took a lot of effort and that was only 4500 lbs of free rolling machine. My container was delivered on a roll back truck and was loaded with a big fork truck. He said he would gladly pick it back up with the same truck if I wanted to sell it back.

Be sure to use a manly comealong and have plenty of refreshments available. Maybe a 5 gallon bucket of grease to lube the trailer deck! Maybe load downhill so that gravity will help you.

 

[gordon21]

That's why I mentioned the 4"PVC pipe. The container will slide right along if it is on several pieces of pipe. As you move the container, you have to keep going to the back and picking up the last pipe and moving it back to the front. You can probably get by with 3 pieces abound 10' long. You will never move it if the whole bottom rail is against the ground.

I once moved a 1500# safe by myself from one end of an office to the other. I pried one edge up with a prybar and put some pieces of 3/4" galvanized water pipe under it. A big prybar and several pieces of pipe and it just rolled along. Just make sure to slide a fresh piece under the leading edge before the front edge tips down.

 

[ovrszd]

My tare weight was in the 5000 lb range too. The dozer did not damage the wooden floor of the container except for where the oil leaked but that oil should prevent rot even better than the fancy marine plywood they used.

I am not sure if a tractor could just drag it along. I moved the container with the dozer and it wasn't very easy. The front of the container digs in like a tractor pull sled. It's not the weight as much as the brick shape digging in. It sure leaves a smooth road though.

In your particular case, you should have shortened your cables so the dozer was picking up slightly on the front of the container. It would have pulled at least 40% easier.

I moved one 1/4 mile in desert sand with a 2 1/2 ton 6x6 truck during Desert Storm. Gotta pick up on the front to prevent the shovel effect you had. Then the loose material under the container acts as a roller.

 

[Highbeam]

In your particular case, you should have shortened your cables so the dozer was picking up slightly on the front of the container. It would have pulled at least 40% easier.

I moved one 1/4 mile in desert sand with a 2 1/2 ton 6x6 truck during Desert Storm. Gotta pick up on the front to prevent the shovel effect you had. Then the loose material under the container acts as a roller.

Good point, if I was able to keep the nose from plowing then it would have been much easier but to be honest the leveling effect was a pleasant surprise and key to my education at the school of hard knocks. I thought to myself "cool, a nice flat road" then when winter came I discovered why a flat road is no bueno. That road is now heavily crowned.

 

[ovrszd]

Good point, if I was able to keep the nose from plowing then it would have been much easier but to be honest the leveling effect was a pleasant surprise and key to my education at the school of hard knocks. I thought to myself "cool, a nice flat road" then when winter came I discovered why a flat road is no bueno. That road is now heavily crowned.

Hahahahahha!!!! That made me chuckle!!! I run a road grader as a sideline, maintaining 50 miles of gravel, two lane roads. As an old grader operator once told me, "a road without a ditch is a ditch"!!! You definitely need crown, the amount depends on use and amount of maintenance you are willing to do. I keep a nice crown on my personal driveway. Enough that water doesn't puddle anywhere on it. I only have to maintain my driveway about once a year with that design. No holes, ruts, soft spots, etc. But you are right, your container was cutting a nice flat road!!! Hahahahaha!!!

P.S. An old farm trick. In the spring when your driveway or dirt paths are muddy and soft, drag them with a harrow. If you don't have a harrow and have timber, a tree top will work. Anything to scratch the surface and break the slimy seal. Your road will dry out quicker and become solid a lot faster.

 

[sandman2234]

Thought I might add a few comments.
I purchased a 40' aluminum container in the mid 80's. Paid $275 for it. The only thing on it that isn't aluminum is the two end caps and the floor. All cross members are also aluminum. Weight of it is just UNDER 3500 pounds.
The cross members on my container are exposed, which is something they changed on most models, due to the damage being excessive. I CANNOT drag mine as was suggested, and pictured due to major damage being done if I do.
Another thing, sitting the container flat on the ground is hard on the wood floor and underside due to the moisture in the soil. Block it at least 8" and build the ramp a little longer, or pile dirt up at the opening. In the long run, you will appreciate the added life of your floor. Mine was doing fine till I moved it and set it down on a unlevel area, allowing one end to touch the ground. That end had the floor rot over time and replacing the floor is more expensive than buying another container. I have considered scrapping mine out and taking the proceeds and buying a cheaper steel one.
If you talk SWMBO into letting you buy one, get the biggest one you can hide in the edge of the woods, and add some paint to it to help hide it. Taking the time to glue insulation foam to the walls might help make it less likely to sweat on the inside, as many do. Keeping it at a constant temperature would prevent that, but they don't usually get that treatment.
Dehumidifier, or exhaust fans will come in handy. Another thing I did was build a small crane rail system in it. A 4" rail and supports that run up each wall, over to the center where the rail was hung were pretty much out of the way, and gave me a way to drag heavy stuff into the container. It would also give you a way to stack implements.
I had mine moved the last time on a Landoll trailer, about 30 miles, for $100. All the other times I moved it myself, using a house jack and a lot of dunage, and an I-beam to hold one end up while I backed under it. A shortened 65' mobile home came in handy as a trailer to move it on, dispite me never unloading it to move it. Heck, one time I had two Corvettes and a lot of spare parts in it while i moved it.
David from jax

 

[evanjohnson]

The aluminum containers hold up great. I had a 40 footer for 15 years before the termites got into the floor. I paid $800 delivered 15 years ago and just finished cutting it up for scrap with a demolition saw. I received over $1600 from the scrapyard for the aluminum! Try that with a steel container.
Best Regarbs,
evan

 

[149owner]

If your wife is dead set against a trailer why not look into a "portable" garage from Cover-it, made in Connecticut or several other vendors. Check your local codes but around here there was no permit required and you don't get taxed for having one like you would for other types of shelters. I put up a 24'X24' one three years ago that is home for my BX220, 149 Cub Cadet, LX277 JD, assorted attachments, Pickup truck, a few ladders and yard tools. Mine is green with transparent panels at the top so there is plenty of light inside during the day.