Tractor size for hay wagon

[Turbys_1700]

I remember it like it was yesterday, when I was big enough to push the clutch in on the 140 dad put me to raking hay and he said "don't worry if you mess up a windrow it can be fixed". He just needed help, lol.

I raked many acres with a Super A and then we upgraded to a 140. Those were great cultivating tractors.

 

[leeave96]

Massey Ferguson 50 diesel on flat ground and very very minor rolling hills does very well with a baler and loaded wagon in tow. This tractor is operated at 540 PTO which is 1,499 engine rpms and 31.08 hp per it's Nebraska test.

A similar tractor would be a MF 135 or a Ford 3000 at 37ish hp. IMHO, this is an ideal size tractor for haying flat fields, pulling a wagon on small farm acreage and a limited budget.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

See how well that works Rob!!!! Logical, positive input, supported by pic. An addition to the thread rather than a distraction!!!!

You mean I don't post enough picts for you??? Geee, and I was sure I was coming here, just to make YOU happy too! lol

SR

 

[Trillium Farm]

I did that with a MF 50 gas, today's balers require a higher speed tractor and would need a bigger one, but for then it was fine

 

[MattLynch]

Tractor should weigh at least 1/3 of the trailer. A 10,000lb tractor to a 30,000lb trailer. I pull about 40,000lbs with a 14,000lb MF 5612 and it handles it ok but it takes a lot to stop with no trailer brakes from 45km/h (tractor brakes all four wheels though)

 

[ovrszd]

Tractor should weigh at least 1/3 of the trailer. A 10,000lb tractor to a 30,000lb trailer. I pull about 40,000lbs with a 14,000lb MF 5612 and it handles it ok but it takes a lot to stop with no trailer brakes from 45km/h (tractor brakes all four wheels though)

No flame intended. I think your ratio is a bit high. Especially if on any hilly terrain. My Kubota is a 10K tractor. My GN loaded, weighing 15K will dominate my tractor in any stop situation. As Elmer Fudd would say, "Be Vewy, Vewy Careful!!!".

 

[MattLynch]

No flame intended. I think your ratio is a bit high. Especially if on any hilly terrain. My Kubota is a 10K tractor. My GN loaded, weighing 15K will dominate my tractor in any stop situation. As Elmer Fudd would say, "Be Vewy, Vewy Careful!!!".

A tractor is not designed to pull a GN trailer, that might cause some issues. I would think most 10k tractors in good working order (good brakes) would hardly notice 15k on the back if it was a proper trailer or wagon for a tractor. Maybe a smaller tractor without front braking would need to be in 4wd if braking downhill in a field.
Just had a look in my owners manual, base dry weight of the tractor with no loader, weights, etc is just under 11,000lb. Maximum trailer towing (depending on hitch) is up to 70,500lbs, giving an almost 1:7 ratio. I would want brakes on anything above 1:3 for sure.

 

[ovrszd]

Amusing.

My tractor doesn't know it's pulling a GN.

You can hook 70K to your tractor if you choose. I'll pass...

 

[KennyG]

I can remember pulling fully loaded hay wagons up and down hills with a Ford 8N. We were warned to not even try to use the brakes. Downhill we kept it in gear and turned the ignition on and off as required. If you've got hills be very careful about the weight.

 

[gladehound]

Ok - so for a rule of thumb this is what I'll throw out from experience... Applies to dry grass and dirt. If wet, if gravel, if ground rock hard, be more conservative. Requires good tires more aggressive R-4 (as opposed to the more construction oriented R-4 tires) or R-1 tires.

completely flat ground - tow as much as you want, just count on it taking as long to stop as did too to get to speed.
5% grades - 4/1 non braked vs braked wheels max. This is to hold load back in gear. Hit the brakes and you may slide.
10% grades - 2/1 non braked vs braked wheels max. This is to hold load back in gear. Hit the brakes and you may slide.
20% grades - 1/1 non braked vs braked wheels max. This is to hold load back in gear. Hit the brakes and you may slide.
beyond 20% grade - good luck!

This is what I've learned from pulling various loads in a hilly orchard. Make sure you start at the top of the hill in a gear that will hold the load back without using brakes. I like to use a gear that is on the low side and apply throttle to maintain speed.

 

[ovrszd]

Ok - so for a rule of thumb this is what I'll throw out from experience... Applies to dry grass and dirt. If wet, if gravel, if ground rock hard, be more conservative. Requires good tires more aggressive R-4 (as opposed to the more construction oriented R-4 tires) or R-1 tires.

completely flat ground - tow as much as you want, just count on it taking as long to stop as did too to get to speed.
5% grades - 4/1 non braked vs braked wheels max. This is to hold load back in gear. Hit the brakes and you may slide.
10% grades - 2/1 non braked vs braked wheels max. This is to hold load back in gear. Hit the brakes and you may slide.
20% grades - 1/1 non braked vs braked wheels max. This is to hold load back in gear. Hit the brakes and you may slide.
beyond 20% grade - good luck!

This is what I've learned from pulling various loads in a hilly orchard. Make sure you start at the top of the hill in a gear that will hold the load back without using brakes. I like to use a gear that is on the low side and apply throttle to maintain speed.

Ron, I'd say that's fairly accurate. Only thing I'd add is as conditions worsen plan ahead of the ratio stated above. Any error, even the slightest error, will quickly accelerate into disaster.

 

[gladehound]

Ron, I'd say that's fairly accurate. Only thing I'd add is as conditions worsen plan ahead of the ratio stated above. Any error, even the slightest error, will quickly accelerate into disaster.

Very well said! I've taken that ride before and never want to again :shocked:

 

[2458n]

Okay I have pulled the loaded wagon back to barn, my problem was always pushing the wagon into the bank barn with the slight rise at the entrance. Loaded tires sure would have helped the 8n.

 

[powerscol]

Well I dont recommend this, but check out post #15 here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/haying/320857-small-hay-grapple-2.html. It s a 23'GN. Its my CT 235 hauling my GN to get hay out of the field. My hay grapple is loaded up front too. I usually only go 3 high, but have gone 4 (7500lbs) which is about 10K with 75lb bales. Trailer is 3500 lbs I think. Yes the tractor is only rated to tow 3K, but the field is flat and I leave the legs just off the ground for safety - they stop quick when they hit the ground. I also plan to hook up the electric breaks sometime soon. I have a spare controller that I am trying to figure out how to wire in. Break hot and ground are easy, but a place to mount out of the way is tough and still reach the manual control. Anyone done that?