Buying Advice Tractor Purchase Advice

[JeffInCO]

I'm thinking that it's time to buy a tractor. So far, I'm really impressed by the Kubotas, so I figured I'd post here.

We're on 20 acres in Northern Colorado. Our acres are mostly native grass pasture. The land is mostly flat with some gently sloping hills except on the east end where there is a steeper hill with an irrigation ditch running across it. We have 5 nice rows of trees/shrubs to make a windbreak on the north and west of the house.

We plan to eventually do some small-scale organic farming. We have a pond to maintain (about one acre). We have water rights that were not used by the previous owner, so irrigation ditches enter and leave our land on both the west and east but there are no trenches on our land to bring the water from the ditches to where it might be needed. Nor are there trenches to properly carry runoff, and there are a few areas that get a bit swampy when it rains. Finally, we're planning a remodel of the house and I'd like to do some of the dirt moving/trenching for utilities/etc.

We currently have a 1952 Ferguson TO30 -- very similar to a Ford 2N/8N. It's a good little tractor and I plan to keep it even if we buy something new, but it needs some repairs and its capabilities are limited. We have a 5-foot mower, a cultivator, a blade, a 3-point-mounted scoop, and a few other minor odds and ends for attachments.

I would like to add a tractor that can do all of the following:

1) Front-end-loader work (pond maintenance, other work)
2) Ditching (various ways to do this)
3) Backhoe
4) Eventually, plowing/cultivating
5) Clearing snow in the winter (maybe just the FEL, maybe a blower in the future?)

I was thinking about going with a 5740 with an HST, but after reading here I'm wondering if this would be a good setup for #4 due to the HST. At the same time, my understanding is that the HST is great for loader work. Maybe I should get something smaller now (probably a Grand L40 in the 30 or 40 HP range) and rely on the TO30 for ground-engaging work until I decide I need something with more power.

I'm not real sure about the best way to do the ditching either. I've heard suggestions that a blade might do the trick; obviously a backhoe could do it (I have a good 500 feet of ditch to pull from the road to our pasture). I know there are PTO-driven ditchers out there, but 50 PTO horses seem to be on the low end for those.

I'd appreciate your thoughts and comments!

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[art]

Jeff, the hydro's will outwork any gear drive tractor for both loader or PTO work. The flexibility of the speed is the main reason and the 5740 would be a great tractor depending on what you might choose to do.

The five foot hog is small for a 50 horsepower tractor so that might need to be changed out unless you choose to suffer.

I did recently went between a 5740 and a 6040 and the fellow took the M-series.

 

[Mike Costello]

I would think your concerns about HST and item #4 could be mitagated by the speed control on the tractor. I have a L4400HST and the speed control unit does a nice job of giving you a constant speed.

 

[bandit67]

If you're leaning towards the 5740, you probably shouldn't consider going smaller, as you will pretty quickly end up wanting bigger. So long as the 5740 can handle the plowing chores, then that sounds like the right machine for you.

And as Mike stated, the speed control on the HST would be perfect for plowing long straight runs. You will love the HST. I do, and I started on gear drive tractors - now, I don't think I'd ever go back to gear drive in a newer machine.

The backhoe will tackle the ditching tasks, along with a miriad of additional around-the-farm tasks that you probably can't even dream up right now, but will once you have it.

Also, if you are open to buying out of state, PM me and I'll give you some advice. I can also give you some advice on some of the in-state Kubota dealers that handle your area.

 

[Tom_H]

No. 4 relation to hp and gears is related to soil type. If you have loam, sandy loam, or even clay, a big enough tractor will plow it, regardless of HST or geared trannie. If you have an ancient, never previously plowed true hardpan (caliche, ironpan, duripan, etc. fragipan, clay packed by heavy vehicle traffic, is not a true hardpan) however, you need something with big rear wheels, good hp, geared trannie with super low ratio pulling gear, and ballast. If you have shallow soil and actual rock beneath that, you need more than a tractor and plow, maybe a downpressured auger with rock fracturing bit (Pengo) and some explosives (you can get away with a lot in really rural areas of CO).

Soil conditions can vary greatly from one little spot to the next and also by vertical horizon layers. What is your soil profile?

http://www.pengoattachments.com/product_category.aspx?ID=1

 

[MarkV]

Sounds like a lot of trench work if you are going to farm with the available irrigation. May want to look at the Kubota commercial TLB's.

MarkV

 

[N80]

The M6040 would be my choice.

 

[rbargeron]

I'm with George on this - the M6040 would be my choice too.

Knowing what I know, I would first scour the earth for an L5450 with hydraulic shuttle and the original Bradco 11-foot backhoe - but they are very hard to find unless they have a lot of hours. The M6040 is the closet thing to it in power and weight these days. An L48 would be good too, but they are on R4 rubber and for plowing you'll get better traction with R1's. Also, the L48's loader is not removable.

 

[hsnow]

I am also thinking about a first time purchase of a new kubota. Since this the first time through for me, do you negotiate the price the same way as a car purchase? Are the dealers willing to deal to the same degree. They all seem willing to give you quotes via email or phone but the prices see inflated. Is it better to hit the dealers in person? Looking for any advice anyone might have.

 

[N80]

I don't think I haggled that much but I did shop around and when talking with a dealer I did let him know if other dealers had a lower price. Of course I knew, and the dealer knew, and you know that the lowest price is not the only consideration.

I'd go to the dealer in person, that way they know you've moved past the initial shopping phase. Tell them that you are looking for the lowest price they can give you and that you are shopping around. Use that time to get a feel for the dealer and his facilities and take that into consideration. With that info out in the open, both you and the dealer know what the score is and can make good decisions. And if he knows that you are shopping around, his low price should be his real low price and haggling over it probably won't be necessary.

I was fortunate, the dealer with the lowest price was the dealer I was most impressed with and the closest by.