nybirdman
Super Member
Surprise! there are not any. A little advice from a user/owner;at least my observations.Geared towards diesel,up to 75 HP,100 acres ,your average home-owner,small operation.
Buying new is expensive but you have a dealer,warranty and their mechanics to fall back on to.
Buying used,as least as price is concerned ,there is no price guides so you have to do your own research;I.E.,www.tractorhouse.com,Iron Search ect.
There are no NADA/Kelly Blue Book ect.that I am aware of for tractors,implements.
What important during your purchase;Private sale(may be a better price but has it's pitfalls) hire a tractor mechanic to inspect(if you are not comfortable doing your-self).
Dealer:how long in business,established brand,tractor dealer first,not lawn mower/chain-saws ect.There are a lot of up and coming brands,again do your home work.You will need fluids,filters and small parts at some point.Another point;I use only recommended fluids and filters from my dealer,not the place to save a buck I.M.H.O.
Questions to ask;stored inside or not (look for faded paint,check tires/hoses)
service records,everything work as expected(three point,PTO,Front End Loader(FEL).If cabbed,windows o.k.,heat/air work,general condition of interior.Hydraulic outlets available back/front;expensive to add if you need them.
Jan.31,2014 is when Tier 4 diesel emissions were required on ALL diesel engines over 25.5 H.P.They use different systems but they all have some kind of emissions control.Up to debate which is better.
A tractor is only a slow ride to the mail box with-out implements so keep in mind in your budget.Can be purchased new/used and paint color doesn't have to match your tractor.Most are universal:Catagory 1 fits most small tractors,Cat 0 for sub-compact,Cat 2 for larger Ag type.
My experience comes from owning a "modern"tractor for 20+ years and grew up with 8N,9N Fords and old JD tractors.Also worked on a dairy farm summers in high school.Worked with my hands my whole life but not a tractor mechanic.Union pipefitter/certified welder,apprentice instructor and maintenance pipe-fitter at a local GM plant.Total 42 years.I mostly do my own basic repairs and service.
So the bottom line is;a color you are happy with,3k pounds bare tractor,4WD ,Front end loader,Cab or open station(too many variables/conditons).Buy bigger than you think you will need,they do shrink with age.
Most traded;sub-compacts with FEL,mid-mount mower and back-hoe.
Transmissions choices are:gear,powershift ,shuttle shift,GST,HST(hydrostatic and the easiest to use);Yanmar has a similar to HST called IVT.There may be others,most common is HST.
We have two;32 H.P.gear drive,4WD open station and 44 HP Cabbed HST and a yard full of implements,snow plows,rear blades,dirt plows ,bush-hogs,box blade,york rake,grain drill and more.
Hope this helps,be glad to answer any questions if I can.
Buying new is expensive but you have a dealer,warranty and their mechanics to fall back on to.
Buying used,as least as price is concerned ,there is no price guides so you have to do your own research;I.E.,www.tractorhouse.com,Iron Search ect.
There are no NADA/Kelly Blue Book ect.that I am aware of for tractors,implements.
What important during your purchase;Private sale(may be a better price but has it's pitfalls) hire a tractor mechanic to inspect(if you are not comfortable doing your-self).
Dealer:how long in business,established brand,tractor dealer first,not lawn mower/chain-saws ect.There are a lot of up and coming brands,again do your home work.You will need fluids,filters and small parts at some point.Another point;I use only recommended fluids and filters from my dealer,not the place to save a buck I.M.H.O.
Questions to ask;stored inside or not (look for faded paint,check tires/hoses)
service records,everything work as expected(three point,PTO,Front End Loader(FEL).If cabbed,windows o.k.,heat/air work,general condition of interior.Hydraulic outlets available back/front;expensive to add if you need them.
Jan.31,2014 is when Tier 4 diesel emissions were required on ALL diesel engines over 25.5 H.P.They use different systems but they all have some kind of emissions control.Up to debate which is better.
A tractor is only a slow ride to the mail box with-out implements so keep in mind in your budget.Can be purchased new/used and paint color doesn't have to match your tractor.Most are universal:Catagory 1 fits most small tractors,Cat 0 for sub-compact,Cat 2 for larger Ag type.
My experience comes from owning a "modern"tractor for 20+ years and grew up with 8N,9N Fords and old JD tractors.Also worked on a dairy farm summers in high school.Worked with my hands my whole life but not a tractor mechanic.Union pipefitter/certified welder,apprentice instructor and maintenance pipe-fitter at a local GM plant.Total 42 years.I mostly do my own basic repairs and service.
So the bottom line is;a color you are happy with,3k pounds bare tractor,4WD ,Front end loader,Cab or open station(too many variables/conditons).Buy bigger than you think you will need,they do shrink with age.
Most traded;sub-compacts with FEL,mid-mount mower and back-hoe.
Transmissions choices are:gear,powershift ,shuttle shift,GST,HST(hydrostatic and the easiest to use);Yanmar has a similar to HST called IVT.There may be others,most common is HST.
We have two;32 H.P.gear drive,4WD open station and 44 HP Cabbed HST and a yard full of implements,snow plows,rear blades,dirt plows ,bush-hogs,box blade,york rake,grain drill and more.
Hope this helps,be glad to answer any questions if I can.
