Tractor is dead...help
- Thread starter rodeogirl07
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grsthegreat
Super Star Member
For the third time, it’s not a safety switch. the op said the lights don’t work. Safety switches don’t prevent this from happening, they just interrupt the starter.
skipmarcy
Veteran Member
You have to have at least a very basic knowledge of a 12 vdc system in order to TROUBLESHOOT a problem - "research" on youtube or advice from one of these parts store mechanics and firing the parts cannon at it probably won't do anything but flush your wallet. In rare cases you might hit across the problem if you're lucky. Simple use of a VOM will find your problem. Get one of those parts store jockeys to sell you a cheap one and find a friend that has at least a basic understanding of electrical operation to help you.
AWSubie
Platinum Member
Check the relays on the firewall.
sd455dan
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2012
- Messages
- 4,787
- Location
- North Idaho
- Tractor
- Rhino 554, Ford 550 TLB (JD X500, MTD, Gilson riding mowers) Ford 3000-Sold
If a bad ground has been eliminated,
Does this tractor employ a fusible link? generally located near the starter main battery B+ post on starter in the lead going to the Ignition switch on some tractors.
A schematic for this machine would be helpful.
As posted a VOM is really helpful to track down the problem.
Does this tractor employ a fusible link? generally located near the starter main battery B+ post on starter in the lead going to the Ignition switch on some tractors.
A schematic for this machine would be helpful.
As posted a VOM is really helpful to track down the problem.
Last edited:
the old grind
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2012
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- 4,412
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- Mid-Michigan
- Tractor
- NH T-1520 HST, NH TC33DA HST, Case DX26 HST, .Terramite T5C, . NH L785
It's probably on a wire vs on a fuse panel. My NHs are all this way.
Switch 'em around and see if the problem moves too.
the old grind
Elite Member
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- Jul 21, 2012
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- 4,412
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- Mid-Michigan
- Tractor
- NH T-1520 HST, NH TC33DA HST, Case DX26 HST, .Terramite T5C, . NH L785
Look for this guy under the hood, trace from there. He'll likely be hanging in a capsule on a wire vs near the fuse panel, connects the battery to the alternator and everything else in/on the tractor. If he goes out nothing works. Work back from the alternator if location isn't obvious.
WranglerX
Super Member
A simple tool I like for trouble shooting is this.... IF you have clip on correct ground ( at battery is best) and are probing and lamp lights you have power if lamp is dark you are either on a ground lead or have no power (12 volts) ....
Another great problem solver is this... Use it to prevent corrosion on all electrical connections...
Sounds like from initial post the problem can be initially ground connection between battery and chassis or primary 12 volt side between battery (through any master fuse/fusible link) to initial distribution fuse panel and/or ignition switch.... From initial description of problem it would seem to me that going through all the safety switches is looking for love in all the wrong places.....
Also check battery and ground cable for corrosion under the insulation, some times the corrosion (problem) is invisible to the eye...
Dale
Another great problem solver is this... Use it to prevent corrosion on all electrical connections...
Sounds like from initial post the problem can be initially ground connection between battery and chassis or primary 12 volt side between battery (through any master fuse/fusible link) to initial distribution fuse panel and/or ignition switch.... From initial description of problem it would seem to me that going through all the safety switches is looking for love in all the wrong places.....
Also check battery and ground cable for corrosion under the insulation, some times the corrosion (problem) is invisible to the eye...
Dale
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CoyPatton
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2015
- Messages
- 1,569
- Location
- Poplar Bluff, MO
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM2002D with Koyker 110 FEL
A simple tool I like for trouble shooting is this.... IF you have clip on correct ground ( at battery is best) and are probing and lamp lights you have power if lamp is dark you are either on a ground lead or have no power (12 volts) ....
Another great problem solver is this... Use it to prevent corrosion on all electrical connections...
Sounds like from initial post the problem can be initially ground connection between battery and chassis or primary 12 volt side between battery (through any master fuse/fusible link) to initial distribution fuse panel and/or ignition switch.... From initial description of problem it would seem to me that going through all the safety switches is looking for love in all the wrong places.....
Also check battery and ground cable for corrosion under the insulation, some times the corrosion (problem) is invisible to the eye...
Dale
I agree with Dale in this assessment. The first few things I would check out
•test that new battery
•they test light is useful for areas where you want 12 volts (the good test lights do 12 volts and 6 volts)
•test your cables. You need a electrical multimeter if you do not have one. If you do not know what an electrical multimeter is, find a friend or a friend of a friend that owns one already and understands ohms, voltage and resistance, and if really good current flow. It is a fairly good meter that measures AC and DC current flow.
•look for that inline fuse (fusible link) on the main battery cable to the battery. A secondary location is to the ignition switch (if your lights bypass your ignition switch it won’t be on your ignition switch since you have no lights).
Test lights are inexpensive, but if you have basic understanding of 12 volt electrical systems, I suggest at a minimum a good quality automotive multimeter. Sensors circuits require test results often in the decimal ranges of voltage, making test lights and analog meters next to unusable beyond learning if voltage is present.