tractor for 10-15 acres

[goodoleboy]

Hello, I am looking for a tractor for about 10-15 acres of land where my home will sit in a few years. It is all flat no trees.
I would like to build and maitain a gravel driveway and do chores around a small farm with it (2-3 horses and a cow some ducks etc...) I will use it for mowing what the animals dont eat. New or used is fine but i WANT ROPS and other safety features not availble on older models. I would like a front end loader abnd 4wd also, but do i need one ? How about the capability to add an excavator? can that be done on low end models?
How much should i be looking to spend?
Right now im just trying to figure out what size i need.

 

[Birdhunter1]

My coworker has a New Holland TC 29D with FEL and he likes it very much. He maintains a bit more ground but since most of it is farmed he is probably actually playing with ten or less acres. There are many different brands that you will get advice on but I would think that something in the 30 HP +/- range would be ideal. New Holland, Kioti, Massey Ferguson, John Deere and several others make good machines. I would take a gamble and say the Kioti's, NH's and MF's are a little lower priced than the JD's and Kubota's. I would get something to power a 6' bushog, finish mower and a 6' box blade. 6' on these are good widths to get the job done yet still be small enough to do small work that you will be doing most of the time. With this size you should also be able to easily do things such as cleaning out horse stables with the FEL and stuff like that. Many swear by Hydorstatic trans., I've never had it so I won't get into that but the gear tractors will last a long time I'll say that much. I have looked at the MF's quite a bit and something like a 1440 or 1433 MF would be a good tractor, I think they have a shuttle trans but not sure. R1's or R4's would be fine, R4's might be better if you are wanting to do yardwork without cutting your yard to pieces. Figure a 6' bushog will take roughly an hour per 1 or 1 1/2 acres.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Generally I will agree that Birdhunter gave you good advice and I would like to build on what he wrote.

10 to 15 acres is a pretty nice size piece of property to maintain but "maintaining" doesn't take a large tractor when you compare the tasks to "constructing" type tasks. So, when it comes time to build your driveway, you will WANT the largest tractor that you can get under your rear end, because cutting a driveway out of raw ground will take some power. Any size tractor can do it, even a small one, BUT the larger the machine, the shorter time it will take to do any big job.

On the other hand, mowing is something that (IF YOU ADD TREES AND LANDSCAPING) is best done with a slightly smaller machine because they turn tighter.

So the New Holland TC29 is a nice size, but you could probably go up to the TC33 and be just as happy. Kubota, Deere, etc all have models of similar size and capabilities. I use both New Holland & Kubota and think very highly of both brands. I think that all the brands are probably going to be very capable and you should take a serious look at the dealerships. You will probably find 10 tractors that will do what you want to do, but if the dealership doesn't have parts or a service department then no matter how good the warrenty is, you will have a hard time when something breaks.

Right now the New Holland curved arm Front End Loaders are the best on the market. (Farmall, which is the same tractor as New Holland -same company, different color paint- uses the same Front End Loader. Their specs show them rated at/near the top of the class by all measurements, but what really shines is the visibility you gain with their curved arm design. John Deere is introducing a curved arm loader, it, however, is more of a design feature than a functional feature, and the arms still block the line of sight from the drivers seat to the bucket. Kioti makes a good curved arm loader, the visibility is good, but the listed specs place their 130 loader behind many of the others in capabilities.

I would recommend a HST transmission if you are NOT going to be doing any real farming. If you are plowing the fields then look for a shuttle shift or similar. There are lots of variations, all are durable, some are much easier to use in the real world. Easier often translates into "safer" to use as well. If you are not familiar with tractors, then go with HST and dismiss everything else. The learning curve is much shorter. In terms of FEL work, HST is easily the fastest type of transmission and will help you get more work done faster and safer.

As for mower decks to maintain that ground, I'd be looking for 6' to 7'. If you are planning on keeping much of the land open, look to a larger deck and perhaps the 33 to 35hp range in tractors. With "finish mowers" realize that you get what you pay for. I am an advocate of paying a lot for a mower deck. I think the quality decks last much longer and provide better cuts than the discount decks. I recently traded in a Befco 60" after over a decade of use and that deck was resold by my dealer for $850!!! You can find brand new decks in the same size range for $800 to $1200, or you can pony up the big bucks and spend in the range of $2000 (again based on a 60" deck comparision, you will have to scale up these prices to 72" or 84" decks) and get a deck that will be essentially trouble free for the life of the tractor. And if you are mowing much of the 15 acres, then your mower deck will likely be the implement you put more hours on than ALL THE OTHER implements COMBINED.

Prices of machines are VERY regional. High prices seem to be in the New England states, lowest prices can often be had in the midwest and the carolinas. A major brand (New Holland, Kubota or John Deere) in the midwest is often priced as low as the minor brands (Massey, Kioti, Cub Cadet, Branson, Mahindra) in some regions, and in other regions the minor brands come in lower. I think to give you a ballpark price, you will likely be in the range of $20,000 to $25,000 for a fully featured tractor, with FEL and several basic implements. But bear in mind, that price range is wide because there are a lot of things to consider.

 

[To20Chris]

For reference, I spent about $20k for a Kioti LK3054 with a Rhino 2408 FEL (60" bucket), and Rhino 65A BH (6.5'), and filled R4's. I'm very happy with it. Something around 30hp sounds like an appropriate size for what you describe, but you could go higher or lower I'm sure. I'm assuming the mowing you'll be doing is brush hogging from your description, but if you'll be doing finish mowing and your soil is soft, then you may want to consider something lighter.

 

[Soundguy]

Nice plan / setup... very similar to what I have..

If you want a loader. the 4wd is nice.. however if a lader wasn't a necescary option.. you could go 2wd, as you have no hills. Also.. some people will buy a tractor slightly larger than what they need.. to have room to 'grow'. Another thing you will find is that a 2wd tractor can be ok, if it is larger than the 4wd in mind. In other words.. a larger heavier 2wd can be used in place of a smaller 4wd in certain circumstances. If you had hills, etc.. I would go with 4wd.

While some older units can pe retrofitted with rops.. sounds like you want to go newer and have a few other 'modern' options.

I would be looking at 30hp minimum.. and as high up from there as your wallet wants to go. A tractor in that size could handle a backhoe.. again.. if your wallet can.

HST trannies are good with loaders.. so keep that in mind. Gear trannies are more suited for some other tasks like constant ground engagment ( tillage ), and possible some other heavy pull issues. I prefer gear tranny myself.. but then I'm used to the old antiquey tractors anyway.

A box blade and a rotary mower will be good options.

Brand will be a harder choice. Mostly any of the 'big three' units will be super. But don't overlook some of the value lines either. Kioti, and Massey ferguson can sometimes give you more HP for your buck.. so can Farmtrac.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[DiskDoctr]

GoodoleBoy,

So far, great advice. About 30 hp, wide 3ph brushhog or finish mower, R4's (industrial lug is midway between aggressive tread that tear up lawns and turf tires that spin if you try to pull or do too much).

I'd recommend a FEL (Front End Loader), as pretty much all the modern stuff easily removes the FEL in the single-minute range of time.

Also, backhoes are easily added.

Sub 30hp units typically offer a mid-mount mower (MMM), which are sometimes tricky to remove, usually specific to model of tractor (not interchangeable with other tractors if you ever change, OR need parts, etc), and sometimes make it difficult to do "tractor stuff" as the MMM impedes tractor clearance.

Of course, there are exceptions, but generally MMM's are "big mowers" whereas 3ph are "tractors that mow." Both have benefits, you just have to weigh what you are going to be doing the most. ie- MMM's are easier to mow lawns with lots of turns, but 3ph cutters do best jobs in open areas.

By the way, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, MMM's usually cut with blades in the 450-650 rpm blade speed, whereas 3ph finish mowers are around 16k rpm blade speed. That's why they do a good job, even in large sizes.

A finish mower is best for frequently mowed, obstacle free areas. Hit a few stumps or large rocks and you have issues.

A brush hog is better for rough cutting and better tolerate stumps, rocks, tree branches, etc.

Both mowers overlap in capabilities.

A Box Blade is invaluable and 6' around $300 is pretty cheap and VERY handy. Think of it as a very capable blade with teeth that can be used or move up out of the way. Can tear, spread, cut, dig, make trenches, etc. Pretty tough and trouble-free. Be sure to get one at least as wide as your wheels, or you will leave tire marks and kick yourself later /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Backhoes... Let's put it this way. They are pricey. They can be rented. If you buy one, you WILL use it, and you will FIND ways to use it /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Never heard someone regret getting one, but also heard others comment that they are okay without one. You'll have to think this one through on your own. Guess it depends on your budget as to how hard you have to think about it.

If you get a FEL and no backhoe, FILL THE REAR TIRES!!! Most all brands in this size have such a power to size ratio that they get tippy without weighted tires and something hanging off the 3ph for counterweight. Save yourself and your tractor- it's easy and cheap. Lots of discussion about this and the options for fluids to use.

4WD? Yes, unless your budget prohibits it, then consider cutting elsewhere first. Most 4WDs can shift to 2WD, but not the other way around. No good way to add aftermarket, and you'll probably use it, especially if you have FEL and/or backhoe. It will also pull your 3ph equipment better and with less struggle.

As a comparison, I bought a 3510 (35hp) Mahindra with FEL, 84" finish mower, 66" tiller, 72" Box Blade, and 16' x 6.5' trailer for just over $20k. I'd suggest you at least take a look at this brand, as well as the ones others are mentioning. All good brands. I personally avoided the Chinese tractors, but you can make that choice- check out the brand-related discussion groups for this type of discussion. Each have pros and cons.

HST... Wish it was available on the model I bought. Would've paid another $1k-$2k for it. I am satisfied with the 12 forward and 12 reverse speeds (3 ranges), but HST is nice.

Diesel. They'll run all day and go easy on the juice. You can get offroad diesel and save some taxes. Flashpoint and storage is safer.

These are opinions- based on experience, but still only opinions. My suggestion is to read as many as you can get, and ask lots of questions.

Sometimes you'll find a "My brand is the only brand and you must buy it or you're an idiot" comment, but these are few and far between. Most posters here genuinely want you to get what is best for you and will showcase their own experiences and brand preferences based upon facts and experience.

And I think that's what your next step will be after you determine size and options.

Good luck, and make sure you let us know what you're thinking and why you eventually make the choice you do.

-JC

PS- Oh, and fair warning: We are very good at spending other peoples' money! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Only spend what you're comfortable with spending. The laser leveled deck with GPS guided cutting patterns is nice, but probably not very practical /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Bob_Skurka]

DiskDoctr . . . I see you have a Cletrac for sale. What model, year, condition, etc. I've been threatening the lovely Mrs_Bob that I would be buying a crawler. I love the Oliver HG and some of smaller Cletracs. Can you send me an asking price, pictures etc via PM?

 

[DaveNay]

I have a 15 acre property with the exact same conditions as you. Gravel drive, horses, mowing, minimal trees, flat. I bought my used JD 855 with FEL and 72" MMM for $10,500. I couldn't be happier /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. The 855 is 24 HP, and I have never felt a need for additional power.

Dave

 

[MFL]

Great advice so far! As my two cents, let me get in a plug for the Kubota B7800. I have 10 acres which I am in the process of turning into pasture, and my little tractor has been indispensable!! I also looked at and test dug all the major brands out there, and decided that the B7800 is, for me, the best balance of power, features, price and safety. I'm sure most here will agree that buying a tractor without a FEL is like buying half a tractor. It's THE attachment to have. Other than the optional FEL, you'll find that the B7800 will meet all your other criteria.

I also agree with the comments on the backhoe. I've had need for one three times since I bought the tractor, but I couldn't justify the cost to buy one. When I've needed one, I've rented. Since you don't have trees, you won't have root balls to dig out, and drainage fields, water lines, etc are usually handled by your building contractors. For the cost of a BH, you can buy a LOT of other implements that will be more useful to you on a more regular basis. Biggest bang for the buck, I always say! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

 

[Libertine]

goodoleboy:

<font color="blue">It is all flat no trees. </font>

Are you planting your trees, orchard now?

<font color="blue">i WANT ROPS and other safety features </font>

YOU are the only "safety feature" that matters. Why do you need ROPS? For when you rollover mowing your steep hills? And ROPS without a seat belt can be DANGEROUS since its harder for you to jump free if you do go over. An alert, careful operator who pays attention to what he is doing and what's going on around him is REAL safety - everything else is BS for the ignorant. All the "safety" features in the world aren't going to help a careless operator, and the lack of "safety" features are no impediment to the careful operator who pays attention. Don't look to others to make you safe. Real safety is in YOU.

JEH