Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please

   / Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please #21  
   / Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please #22  
I saw a hitch the other day that had a weight gauge built in showing tongue weight. Really slick.
 
   / Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please #23  
You don't need a WDH for that on a 3/4 ton. Just make sure you have a good stout receiver hitch and ball. Your truck has the 2.5" right? Might use one of those for safe measure vs the 2" with a reducer. I have pulled lots of bumper pull trailers in the 12-14k range with 3/4 tons and have never used a WDH. I would much prefer a gooseneck but it will work.
 
   / Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Your truck has the 2.5" right? Might use one of those for safe measure vs the 2" with a reducer.

Yes I have the larger class V hitch. I'll use one of these with the stock reducer. It is rated for 14k trailer weight and 1,400lbs tongue weight.

Onemount.jpg
 
   / Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please #25  
Lots of good advice here and you seem to be on top of it. I will add one thing to check. Your truck's receiver/hitch will have a sticker on it with load ratings. See what it says for max tongue weight and max trailer. I have a 3/4 ton F250 and found that the OEM hitch is only rated to 5000 lbs unless you go to a WD setup, per the sticker. I could have got a new hitch rated for more, or a WD setup, but after asking the question here, I ended up with the WD. I really wish I had just got a higher rated hitch . WD's are a PITA, and just like you I now have to decide if I need to use it or not with my 10k trailer. My weight with tractor, implements and trailer was in the 8k range, FWIW. The truck has one rating. The hitch has another. And the two may not be in the same league, so check the hitch before you think about running this without WD.

Good luck, but it sounds like you are careful and experienced enough to avoid the common mistakes people make.

-Dave
 
   / Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Lots of good advice here and you seem to be on top of it. I will add one thing to check. Your truck's receiver/hitch will have a sticker on it with load ratings. See what it says for max tongue weight and max trailer. I have a 3/4 ton F250 and found that the OEM hitch is only rated to 5000 lbs unless you go to a WD setup, per the sticker. I could have got a new hitch rated for more, or a WD setup, but after asking the question here, I ended up with the WD. I really wish I had just got a higher rated hitch . WD's are a PITA, and just like you I now have to decide if I need to use it or not with my 10k trailer. My weight with tractor, implements and trailer was in the 8k range, FWIW. The truck has one rating. The hitch has another. And the two may not be in the same league, so check the hitch before you think about running this without WD.

Good luck, but it sounds like you are careful and experienced enough to avoid the common mistakes people make.

-Dave

Thanks. Chevy does a Class V hitch (at least with the diesel option). The sticker on the bottom of the hitch says 13k max trailer and 1,500lbs max tongue weight. I believe these weight limits are specific to my truck and not the hitch because Class V hitches have a 16,000 lb max towing and 2,400 lb tongue weight.

In any event I think my research is done and I'm comfortable pulling my load without a WDH. Thanks for all the advice.
 
   / Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please #27  
Glad to see that you're looking for the right way rather than the all to common what can I get away with.
 
   / Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please
  • Thread Starter
#28  
So I'm getting some advice that using a single 3/8" chain on the front and back with two binders is all that I need to chain it down. Doesn't seem secure enough to me but the skid steer guys say they do it that way.

If I do it with four chains and four binders I need to go to harbor freight and get two more chains and two more binders.

What keeps the tractor from sliding right or left if you only use one chain for the front and one for the back?

My plan is to do it like in this video unless everyone here thinks two chains is fine. I will use four ratchet binders.

Securing a Tractor to a Trailer - YouTube

Ten Tips for Securing a Tractor to a Trailer - YouTube
 
   / Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please #29  
So I'm getting some advice that using a single 3/8" chain on the front and back with two binders is all that I need to chain it down. Doesn't seem secure enough to me but the skid steer guys say they do it that way. If I do it with four chains and four binders I need to go to harbor freight and get two more chains and two more binders. What keeps the tractor from sliding right or left if you only use one chain for the front and one for the back? My plan is to do it like in this video unless everyone here thinks two chains is fine. I will use four ratchet binders. Securing a Tractor to a Trailer - YouTube Ten Tips for Securing a Tractor to a Trailer - YouTube

I used to use my two long chains as four. I simply laid it across the deck and secured it on both ends of the chain to the equipment being towed. I then used boomers to the trailer deck to make the connection and snug it down.

I have since got 4 8' chains and 4 boomers. Much easier and less weight. I just bought 2 16' chains and cut them in half. Mi didn't even bother putting hooks in the cut end. Simply not needed since the boomer is on that end. Just loop the chain through the D rings in my trailer and snug her up.

Chris
 
   / Towing tractor and implements 1,200 miles: help me be safe please #30  
So I'm getting some advice that using a single 3/8" chain on the front and back with two binders is all that I need to chain it down. Doesn't seem secure enough to me but the skid steer guys say they do it that way.

If I do it with four chains and four binders I need to go to harbor freight and get two more chains and two more binders.

What keeps the tractor from sliding right or left if you only use one chain for the front and one for the back?

My plan is to do it like in this video unless everyone here thinks two chains is fine. I will use four ratchet binders.

Securing a Tractor to a Trailer - YouTube

Ten Tips for Securing a Tractor to a Trailer - YouTube

If the tractor (or vehicle) is less than 10K then only one chain front and one back is legal. I see rollbacks hauling cars that way all the time.
Personally, I use 4 chains, 2 front and 2 back with ratchet binders like in the video. In the rear I attach to the draw bar. In front I added bolt on D-rings to the tractor frame. I don't like to wrap chain around the axle. Then the bucket and any attachment also have to be secured. I bought 2 - 20' grade 70 chains and cut them in half giving me 4- 10'ers. I keep an assortment of extra chains and ratchet straps in the truck for other items that need to be secured.
 
 
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