Towing Package, tow ready?

[George2615]

HELP HELP HELP
Ok, I am probably a complete idiot but I thought you cold just hook up a trailer to your tow hitch and if the vehicle is rated to pull the trailer weigh, you were all right after you plugged into the hitch electric. No?
My son just bought a new 18' Carry On to haul a new JD 3032E with his 2000 Chevy Suburban. The hitch was there as well as the electric hookup. Got it brand new off the lot when he bought it.
Are you telling me that his set up is not going to activate the dual brakes on the trailer? What 12v wiring , brake controller, or fuse relay are all of you talking about? I got grandkids in that GM infront of the JD. HELP HELP

All trucks that come with a trailer tow package would have some sort of trailer plug. The basic terminals that are wired in that plug are for turn signals, brake lights, and parking lights and a ground.
In order to have trailer brakes that work his truck would need a trailer brake controller. If it does not have one all the braking will be done by the suburban. If his suburban does not have a brake controller he will need to buy one and install it to make the trailer brakes work.

The 12V B plus wiring is an extra terminal in the 7 pin plug which would be required to run some 12V accessory the trailer may have such as a winch. The 12V B+ wire is not required for a basic trailer that only needs lighting.

A basic 7 pin trailer plug on a tow vehicle uses only 4 wires for left turn, right turn, parking lights and ground. These 4 wired terminals do not operate trailer brakes, only lighting. The other 3 terminals in a 7 pin plug may or may not be wired. They are (1) an external trailer brake controller (if the vehicle is not equipped with one) (2) backup light circuit if the trailer is so equipped, and (3) A 12V B+ lead usually used as a charging wire for the trailer battery or for a 12V trailer accessory.

 

[buck12]

If you bought a Ford F150 your issue may be with the dealer in that it sounds like they took the items you need out of the truck. I bought a new F150 Sunday and the fuse, relay, instructions, and wiring diagram were in a package in the door pocket.

 

[Groo]

My 05 Avelanche without a tow package was pretty much plug and play. I picked up an OEM hitch from ebay, there was a pigtail for the 7pin taped up for it, and all the bolt holes have the nuts welded in from the factory. My Tekonsha brake controler was also plug-n-play.

I was wondering why the interior trailer lights don't work. I'll have to check the manual about the relay and fuse thing. I guess I'm glad I never hauled the trailer back to the dealer to get them "fixed" I didn't buy nearby.

 

[Diamondpilot]

My 05 Avelanche without a tow package was pretty much plug and play. I picked up an OEM hitch from ebay, there was a pigtail for the 7pin taped up for it, and all the bolt holes have the nuts welded in from the factory. My Tekonsha brake controler was also plug-n-play.

I was wondering why the interior trailer lights don't work. I'll have to check the manual about the relay and fuse thing. I guess I'm glad I never hauled the trailer back to the dealer to get them "fixed" I didn't buy nearby.

Yes, you are probably missing the fuse. On most GM its the monster size fuses, and usually requires a 30 amp. This fuse goes in the under hood fuse box. Should cost $3 or so.

On your trucks 7way plug the pin at the 1 o'clock position will have 12 volts and the pin at the 7 o'clock will be the ground. It should only work with the fuse in and the trucks key in the Acc or Run position but some report it will work with the key out. I do not like this because it can lead to dead batteries. Happened to my neighbor at a camp ground with their camper.

Chris

 

[patrick_g]

My 05 Avelanche without a tow package was pretty much plug and play. I picked up an OEM hitch from ebay, there was a pigtail for the 7pin taped up for it, and all the bolt holes have the nuts welded in from the factory. My Tekonsha brake controler was also plug-n-play.

I was wondering why the interior trailer lights don't work. I'll have to check the manual about the relay and fuse thing. I guess I'm glad I never hauled the trailer back to the dealer to get them "fixed" I didn't buy nearby.

Discount Fuse, Inc.

Low prices on fuses and fast shipping. I shopped around for some fuses I needed and these guys were way cheaper for the part and shipping.

Pat

 

[firedog]

My 2007 Dodge was fairly easy to install. It came with the plug in, but I had to solder it to the pig tail for the brake controller, although you could buy a pig tail that would be a true plug in for the controller. The thing I don't know, is if I have a 12 volts for charging trailer batteries. Does anyone know if I would have to intall a fuse or something? I don't have the need for it now, but if I were to add a break away sytem, it would be nice.

I didn't have to add anything on my 09'. I moved the brake controller over from the 98', plugged it in and that was it. My gooseneck is set up for 12v power to maintain the breakaway & winch batteries.

 

[patrick_g]

My 2007 Dodge was fairly easy to install. It came with the plug in, but I had to solder it to the pig tail for the brake controller, although you could buy a pig tail that would be a true plug in for the controller. The thing I don't know, is if I have a 12 volts for charging trailer batteries. Does anyone know if I would have to intall a fuse or something? I don't have the need for it now, but if I were to add a break away sytem, it would be nice.

Hey Dodge Dude, Breakaway systems are a GOOD THING to have.

It is good practice to have some sort of protection against a short circuit or other over current situation. After all, the charge line however wired ultimately is connected to the battery and to something on your trailer. If, for example, the little breakaway battery shorted internally or any other short circuit happened anywhere along the wire between the battery and the trailer the charge line wire itself would be overheated and literally burned up.

A fuse near the SOURCE end of the charge line is a GOOD idea. You can also use an automatic resetting breaker rated for no more amps than the charge line wire. The breakers are small, inexpensive, dead simple to install, and are readily available off the shelf at an auto parts store.

They are a two terminal device. You just insert one in the charge line wire as close to the battery end as is practical. There is no polarity so you can't install it backwards as there is no backwards.

If the charge line pulls too much current the breaker opens up shutting the power off and then when the breaker cools off it resets itself and reapplies power. If the over current situation remains it will cycle over and over. If the problem goes away or is intermittent the breaker automatically restores power.

A really handy finishing touch is to wire an indicator across the terminals of the breaker. The indicator can be an audio device like a Mallory Sonalert, a light or whatever. The indicator is wired to the two terminals of the breaker. If for any reason the breaker pops open from over current the indicator comes on. When the breaker resets itself the indicator is shut off. If the breaker pops open again the indicator is turned on again. The indicator alerts you to the problem.

Just about any 12 volt light, LED (set up for 12 VDC), or audible alarm wired across the terminals of the breaker will do nicely.

Pat

 

[patrick_g]

So... finally.... I talked to someone at my Ford dealer who actually new something about the charge wire, relay, and fuse. This after visiting a large Ford dealership and the parts guy couldn't find the parts in his documentation and calling a service manager who had no clue and so forth.

On the F-250 Super Duty the relay and fuse are factory installed and are in fact TOW READY!!!

Except, of course, in my case where I don't get 12 volts to the trailer connector. I will be taking the truck in for warranty work to get the thing working like it should. They promise a while I wait repair with no appointment needed. Sounds good to me... if it happens and I don't grow old in their waiting room.

Patrick

 

[Egon]

Pack a lunch!
Don't spend time walking around the vehicle lots!

All that kerfuful for what was already there! It's nice to know the original order was correct.

 

[elginfarm]

Just a quick note about R&P. After I bought my tractor I needed a trailer to transport it. After having gone to several trailer dealers I went to them last and they gave me the best price on a 7K flatbed. Their web site is very informative and that is where I found all the information I needed when I installed a brake controller in the wife's 07 Yukon. Their shop is about a sixty mile ride for me, but they are truly a family run operation and are a pleasure to deal with. I wouldn't hesitate to purchase from them again. Just adding my 2 cents.

 

[patrick_g]

Pack a lunch!
Don't spend time walking around the vehicle lots!

All that kerfuful for what was already there! It's nice to know the original order was correct.

Egon, when I was standing next to the truck with the hood up and phone in hand (with Ford guy on phone) I was having trouble finding the fusebox. There is an assembly with several vacuum lines and a multi-conductor electrical cable going to it that is mounted on top of the fuse box. There is a sort of Dzus fastener that releases one side of the vacuum hosed thingy and then you can slip a tab out of a slot and kinda sorta lay that assy out of the way (not much slack in the cable.) Then there are some catches you can release to remove the lid of the fuse box except... the factory guys taped the lid on with the tape at the firewall end of the lid where you can't see it. Until I got fairly brutal with the lid I couldn't understand why I couldn't get it clear of the box. Once I got fairly rough with it I broke the tape and the lid came out easier. They must install these with a greasy shoe horn!

Of course all the labels on the top of the lid and inside the lid (mapping the fuse and relay locations) are molded into the black plastic and are nearly impossible to see/read in lighting less intense than an operating theater (1000 foot candles or greater.)

Hope springs eternal... but... without expectation there is no disappointment.

Anyway at least the mystery of the relay and fuse has been solved or at least traded in on a warranty repair.

Pat

 

[Diamondpilot]

Just a quick note about R&P. After I bought my tractor I needed a trailer to transport it. After having gone to several trailer dealers I went to them last and they gave me the best price on a 7K flatbed. Their web site is very informative and that is where I found all the information I needed when I installed a brake controller in the wife's 07 Yukon. Their shop is about a sixty mile ride for me, but they are truly a family run operation and are a pleasure to deal with. I wouldn't hesitate to purchase from them again. Just adding my 2 cents.

Yes, they are good people. Glad you got a nice deal. Guess you live in Elgin, my boss lived there for 20 plus years.

Chris

 

[Egon]

Of course all the labels on the top of the lid and inside the lid (mapping the fuse and relay locations) are molded into the black plastic and are nearly impossible to see/read in lighting less intense than an operating theater (1000 foot candles or greater.)

Chances are pretty good that there's a whole bunch of fellows would claim the same thing, time has passed and has not been noticed??

Throw in some med's that give fuzzy vision and it gets better.