tough paint

   / tough paint #41  
I was thinking about trying to spray some paint with hardeners (iso). I see there are a couple of ebay sellers selling disposal supplied air hoods. I was thinking about getting some of these and wearing my mask (with new cartridges) and one of these hoods connected to my compressor as well. Good idea or bad?

To me, that would be okay on a limited basis, provided:

1. Your not breathing the compressed air directly. i.e. your wearing a proper respirator too. Compressed air is not meant for breathing, without proper OSHA certified filtration.

2. Your air system can handle the load. If it is going to make a ton of water trying to supply your demand, that will hurt you paint job.
 
   / tough paint #42  
I looked on E-bay to see the "disposable hood".

I would be concerned that the plastic would attract, and hold the over spray, due to static electricity. If this happens, you would quickly not be able to see through the plastic.

This is why many forgo the necessary eye protection, while spraying. It gets very difficult to see well enough, to properly apply the coatings.
 
   / tough paint #43  
I was thinking about trying to spray some paint with hardeners (iso). I see there are a couple of ebay sellers selling disposal supplied air hoods. I was thinking about getting some of these and wearing my mask (with new cartridges) and one of these hoods connected to my compressor as well. Good idea or bad?

What Ray said.

Yo cant breathe compressed air directly as there can be oil mist (BAD) plus other contaminants in the supply.

id watch craigs or ebay. Breathing (supplied) air compressors come up all the time. Ive seen them go for as little as $100. I intend on getting one myself when finances improve. Even if it doesnt come with a face mask , those can be picked up for~200 new, or much less used.

The filters alone to clean up regular compressed air to breathing standards will be much more than the ~$300 invested in a used supplied air compressor and new mask.
 
   / tough paint #44  
In a pinch, you can use a non-approved oil-less air compressor from Sears etc. for a breathable air supply, since this is presumed not a government regulated project.

But, it has to be completely isolated from the source your trying to avoid breathing. i.e. the paint fumes, to be effective. This can be difficult to do at home.

Your going through a lot of trouble for one project.

As far as breathing protection goes, if you just buy an $18 disposable paint respirator, or buy the proper filters for yours, store it in a sealed sealed container, when not in use, and only use it for one project, you will be fine. :thumbsup:
 
   / tough paint
  • Thread Starter
#45  
In a pinch, you can use a non-approved oil-less air compressor from Sears etc. for a breathable air supply, since this is presumed not a government regulated project.

But, it has to be completely isolated from the source your trying to avoid breathing. i.e. the paint fumes, to be effective. This can be difficult to do at home.

Your going through a lot of trouble for one project.

As far as breathing protection goes, if you just buy an $18 disposable paint respirator, or buy the proper filters for yours, store it in a sealed sealed container, when not in use, and only use it for one project, you will be fine. :thumbsup:

I was going to use a oilless for breathing air. I have close to 150 feet of air hose. I will be spraying a bushhog on the farm. I can spray it in a large pole barn or outside if needed.
 
   / tough paint #46  
I was going to use a oilless for breathing air. I have close to 150 feet of air hose. I will be spraying a bushhog on the farm. I can spray it in a large pole barn or outside if needed.

I paint with iso hardners. i paint ONLY outside, and wear a respirator.

I generally try not to stand in overspray, and usually try to do the 'hold my breath' thing when painting a long side panel that I don't want to step away from.. been painting this way over a decade.

so far other than the third eye that popped up in the middle of my head and the green scally skin and antenne near my ears.. it hasn't bothered me :)

soundguy
 
   / tough paint #47  
If your planing on painting outside, and not concerned about a fine finish, (your not going to get one with industrial enamel anyway), consider using an airless sprayer, rather than a spray gun.

You can rent a small one cheap. There will be less trouble dealing with wind, less exposure to paint spray, less over spray, and you will paint it in about half the time.
 
   / tough paint #48  
them things are getting cheap.. you can get them at the chinese store for less than 100$

soundguy
 
   / tough paint #49  
Chinese store, LOL :D

I never heard that one before.
 
   / tough paint #50  
harbor freight, or other smaller 'mom n pop' stores selling import gear..e tc.

soundguy
 
   / tough paint #51  
Oh I got it, I just never head them called that.
 
   / tough paint
  • Thread Starter
#52  
Maybe I'm just a little to worried about the hardener. I'm not real concerned about the finish except that it will be durable. I want to paint a 6' bush hog cutter. It's a faded red model now. Do I need to prime it after sanding and cleaning? Or should I just lay on the finish coats after prep? Should I just get the valspar Restoration stuff at TSC or get paint at JD.
 
   / tough paint #53  
Just a little worried?

With industrial enamel, you can do just about anything you want.

It really won't matter that much who's industrial enamel you use.

You should prime bare metal spots, you do not need to prime painted areas.

If your only worried about putting a basic layer of weather protection on it: Get it clean, dull the painted areas, prime the bare spots, and paint it.

If that's the case, don't even bother to spray it, you can brush, and roll it. The stuff flows out real nice, if you do it right.
 
   / tough paint
  • Thread Starter
#54  
Just a little worried?

With industrial enamel, you can do just about anything you want.

It really won't matter that much who's industrial enamel you use.

You should prime bare metal spots, you do not need to prime painted areas.

If your only worried about putting a basic layer of weather protection on it: Get it clean, dull the painted areas, prime the bare spots, and paint it.

If that's the case, don't even bother to spray it, you can brush, and roll it. The stuff flows out real nice, if you do it right.

I've brushed in the past and it worked well enough. I'd not sure if brushing with hardener will work well because of the extra time it would take to lay on a coat.
 
   / tough paint #55  
I've brushed in the past and it worked well enough. I'd not sure if brushing with hardener will work well because of the extra time it would take to lay on a coat.

The hardener will not effect the time you have to apply the paint.

Heat will effect the drying . If it is hot, get it in the shade, when applying it with a brush.

Adding a little mineral spirits will slow the drying time, if necessary.

To be 100% safe, you will still need to wear a respirator, from the second you open the can of hardener.
 
   / tough paint #56  
and thin with MS if brush painting, vs something faster like naptha for spraying.

as fast as spraying is.. I think I'd spray it.

you could hold your breath on and off a couple times for the whopping 1-2 minutes it will take to shoot a 5' mower.

I freshened my old red 5' KK with a quart of IH red I had laying around. all I did was power wash it, let it dry, take off the decals and id tags, then shot it. after it cured, I went back and masked off the deck a lil and hand painted the upright metal bars back to black like it was from the factory.

quick easy job...

soundguy
 
   / tough paint #57  
vs something faster like naptha for spraying.

soundguy

Yes, that is a good trick few know.

Lacquer thinner will also speed it up.

Anytime you accelerate drying in paint, you usually sacrifice gloss.

Industrial enamel will set up pretty quickly, if you spray it out in the hot sun, and don't over apply it.
 
   / tough paint #58  
that faster tack time can help though. Like if you are painting outside, you don't want it to stay 'wet' for 6 hours. :) every bug, spec of dust and raindrop will immediatly move in on ya.. :) :)

soundguy

Yes, that is a good trick few know.

Lacquer thinner will also speed it up.

Anytime you accelerate drying in paint, you usually sacrifice gloss.

Industrial enamel will set up pretty quickly, if you spray it out in the hot sun, and don't over apply it.
 
   / tough paint #59  
that faster tack time can help though. Like if you are painting outside, you don't want it to stay 'wet' for 6 hours. :) every bug, spec of dust and raindrop will immediatly move in on ya.. :) :)

soundguy

That was my point.

Once you have applied all the paint, you want it to set as fast as possible.

That's where a baking booth is really nice.

I can dump the paint on top of a hood so wet, if you left it to air dry it will drip off the edges. Force dry it, and in less than an hour, be putting it on a car. :D
 
   / tough paint #60  
would be nice to have a bake booth.. or heck.. a PAINT booth :)

closest I've come is a tarp canopy and visquene walls held up with clothespins.. :)

soundguy
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

John Deere Z994R (A60462)
John Deere Z994R...
2020 MACK P164T (A58214)
2020 MACK P164T...
2002 Ford Thunderbird Convertible (A59231)
2002 Ford...
2023 GREAT DANE FLP-0024-00053 53FT FLATBED TRAILER (A59905)
2023 GREAT DANE...
2023 Ford Expedition SUV (A59231)
2023 Ford...
2008 KENWORTH T300 FLATBED FUEL TRANSPORT TRUCK (A58214)
2008 KENWORTH T300...
 
Top