Toro GT2300 bogging down

[Beaverplt]

Hi all,

I'm having issues with my Toro tractor bogging down under load. A bit of history. About a month ago, my tractor died while I was mowing the lawn. One of the coil's wire had worked itself under the engine cover and shorted out. I replaced the coil, started the tractor and took it out to continue mowing. When going uphill or going through the thick grass the engine started bogging down. If I shut the mower off, the engine still bogged going uphill but not as bad. I have checked the compression on both cylinders and get 130 on each. I replaced the spark plugs and thoroughly cleaned the carb. It's still bogging under load. I put a spark tester on each side. Both sides seem to be running the same. Any ideas?

Thanks

 

[seville009]

Does it bog down only when you have the blades engaged? If so, check the mower belt and blades

 

[tomplum]

It does seem like either one cylinder is running or you may have a partially sheared flywheel key. Your engine may have a spark advance module. Are you using a node light spark tester? Engine model and spec could be helpful.

 

[radios1]

check your float level too, if it's too low or high that can also cause this..

 

[Beaverplt]

Thanks for the answers. The engine is a Kohler SV735. I am using a node light spark tester. The belt and blades on the mower don't seem to be any different than usual. The tension on the belt is good, as in not too tight or loose. No wobble on the blades either. I can check the float level again, but it was right when I reassembled the carb.

 

[radios1]

Thanks for the answers. The engine is a Kohler SV735. I am using a node light spark tester. The belt and blades on the mower don't seem to be any different than usual. The tension on the belt is good, as in not too tight or loose. No wobble on the blades either. I can check the float level again, but it was right when I reassembled the carb.

make sure the float bowl is actually filling, and check the gas cap, if the vent hole is clogged, and not letting air in fast enough, that can cause fuel starvation, especially under load, when the carb needs the most gas.

 

[Beaverplt]

Thanks radios1. I will check those two things.

I took the mower deck off and drove the tractor around. Obviously, there was no extra load to put on it, but I still noticed a slight drop in power going up hill. While I had the deck off, I made sure to grease the spindles and noticed that one of them does not have a zirc fitting. Must have been replaced at some time. Doesn't seem related, but I thought it interesting.

 

[radios1]

Thanks radios1. I will check those two things.

I took the mower deck off and drove the tractor around. Obviously, there was no extra load to put on it, but I still noticed a slight drop in power going up hill. While I had the deck off, I made sure to grease the spindles and noticed that one of them does not have a zirc fitting. Must have been replaced at some time. Doesn't seem related, but I thought it interesting.

the one with the zerk fitting is probably the replacement.(better)..

 

[Beaverplt]

I'm still baffled. I pulled the flywheel to look at the flywheel key. It was in perfect shape. I recleaned the carb and checked the operation of the float. The float seemed fine when looking at it. It moved freely with no sticking. I have the repair manual for my engine, but I could not find any specs on adjusting the float for height either high or low. If anyone has them or even a pic so I can reference it, I'd appreciate it.

 

[radios1]

I'm still baffled. I pulled the flywheel to look at the flywheel key. It was in perfect shape. I recleaned the carb and checked the operation of the float. The float seemed fine when looking at it. It moved freely with no sticking. I have the repair manual for my engine, but I could not find any specs on adjusting the float for height either high or low. If anyone has them or even a pic so I can reference it, I'd appreciate it.

apparently, it's not adjustable, but check pages 25 and 26 in the repair manual for troubleshooting loss of power..

 

[tomplum]

What is the 4 digit spec number after the SV735? What part number coil was installed and is it installed in the same direction as the other with the kill wire tab facing up? Does your engine have smart spark?

 

[Beaverplt]

The engine is a SV735-0011. The coil is part number 24-584-36-S. I'm not sure what you mean about the kill wire tab or smart spark.

 

[tomplum]

So did the coil match what was one there? There may be a visible part number on the coil. Your IPL shows that the engine originally had the smart spark, which uses the spark advance module mounted on the blower housing. Even if yours was converted, the coil may not be proper. 32 707 01-S is the number of the conversion kit should you want to go that route.

 

[Beaverplt]

I do have smart spark. I never knew that was what Kohler called it. Never too old to learn something new, are we? Anyways, the coil did match the one that was there.

So after all this, I might just have the wrong coil? I looked up 32 707 01-S. What is it "converting"?

 

[tomplum]

So this is what I come up with when I look your engine up on my distributor's portal: 2458463-S 24 584 89-S ! MODULE, SPARK ADVANCE (DSAI) ASSEMBLY - DISCONTINUED SEE PB 259 You listed part number 24-584-36-S . I suppose that it could be correct, but I would match the number to an old coil.
Kohler had several different ignition systems. On yours your kit comes with both coils and the harness to replace the original smart spark . The SAM coils have extra terminals. I assume that if yours had just the single terminal, it was converted already. I'm not sure that I have the coil numbers from the kit. Price wise it is an affordable kit. I suppose that it is possible that the capacitor releases the spark at the wrong time? You should be able to find Kohler Parts Bulletin 259 on the web for more details.

Kohler 12 volt Digital Spark Advanced Ignition (DSAI) has been discontinued. A new magneto powered spark advance system MDI has taken its place. This new MDI system no longer requires 12 volts to function.
DSAI Ignition System parts and kits will no longer be available. Replacement of current DSAI ignition parts requires an MDI conversion kit. The MDI kits require use of the original engine wire harness.
The following table shows the various DSAI system modules and where they were used. The chart identifies the needed kit to convert to MDI.
After the conversion from DSAI to MDI Ignition, the modules can be replaced individually.
DATE REVISEDDATE ISSUED
MODEL
NO.
ENGINE DIVISION, KOHLER CO., KOHLER, WISCONSIN 53044
Parts Bulletin 259
9/13
Engine Model
Previous Ignition Module MDI Module Conversion Kit CH/CV740 24 584 52-S, 24 584 63-S, 24 584 89-S Ignition Module 25 707 03-S CH/CV740 24 584 31-S Speed Advance Module 25 707 03-S CH/CV750 24 584 53-S, 24 584 64-S, 24 584 90-S Ignition Module 25 707 03-S CH/CV750 24 584 39-S Speed Advance Module 25 707 03-S SV735/740/840 24 584 63-S, 24 584 89-S Ignition Module 32 707 01-S SV735/740/840 24 584 31-S Speed Advance Module 32 707 01

 

[Beaverplt]

Considering nothing else has solved the problem, I have to believe I have the wrong coil. My original coil (and the replacement for that matter, has two terminals. The smart spark box is still on the engine as well, so no conversion was done. Seems like it might be as good of time as any to do it. I appreciate all the effort you put into my problem.

 

[Beaverplt]

I'm starting to wonder if someone made some changes to this tractor before I owned it. I bought the new 32-707-01-S conversion kit. I started to work on it this morning. When I removed the "good" coil that I hadn't replaced, the number on it is the same 24-584-36-S on the coil I purchased for the other side. Tomplum, you mentioned the distributors portal shows a different number. Perhaps both coils had been replaced previously. If so, they worked perfectly fine up until one failed.

Next, the 2nd instruction asks you to disconnect both 3 pin connectors from the DSAI modules. My modules have two wires connected with spade connectors. They look nothing like what is in the picture. I am guessing the picture is of a different Courage engine, but wonder if what I have is original.

Last, the rest of the instructions are easy until I get to the instruction about cutting the white lead off of the three pin connector on the number 2 cylinder. As I mentioned I have only two wires. Neither one is white. When I look at the wiring that goes to each module. Each side has a brown wire. The number 2 cylinder's other wire is red. The number 1 cylinder's other wire is yellow. Could the original wiring harness have been replaced? Either way, which wire do I connect to the new duplex lead.

I hope all this makes sense. I appreciate the help.

 

[tomplum]

Of the wires that go to the ignition system, white is the wire that gets grounded when the ignition switch is turned off. What you don't want is any power going to those leads. If unsure, grab a multi meter to know which will be your kill wire and use that one. Out of curiosity, what is the part number on the coils inside the kit? A cursory check on your 24-584-36-S coil shows a Command engine for an application, not a Courage. I'll look further to see if I have any good info.

 

[tomplum]

Of the 2 wires that go to the module on the cover, that white wire should be the correct one. Best practice would be to check with a meter. You wouldn't want to confuse this with the regulator

 

[Beaverplt]

The number on the new coils is 32 584 08. There are also numbers 32410-02-6 and 1827209. I'm attaching pics of the wiring coming off of the smart spark module. There is a red power wire coming from the rear of the tractor along with a white ground. Both are connected to the smart spark using pin connectors. From the smart spark there's two short wires, red and brown that went to the coil on #2. Yellow and brown wires go to the coil on #1. I'm still not sure which of the wires to clip and connect to the new lead.