Top & Tilt on a TC33D?

[Neophyte]

I have heard in a few places that people go with Kubota or JD because the TC33D cannot accept a Top & Tilt. Is this true? Is it possible on any of the TC series?

My limited understanding of T&T is that it is 2 hydraulic cylinders that replace the center link and right link on the 3-point hitch. This means that it would require 2 rear remotes. I thought the TC33D could handle 2 rear remotes so what is preventing someone from having T&T on a TC33D?

Also, what is the maximum number of rear remotes a TC33D can accept? I know they have 2 empty slots on the fender for the controls but can you install more than that if required?

My other question is about a center link and how it relates to a Rear Finish Mower. This may be a stupid question ... but here it goes. Wouldn't you want a floating center link for a rear finish mower? Is there such a thing? Do you need a special center link or is it part of the RFM? It seems to me that the mower would follow the ground better if it had a floating center link that would allow the RFM to hinge on the left/right links. This would allow the back of the RFM to follow the ground as you are rounding hills, etc. Maybe I'm thinking about it too much ... or not enough. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I would appreciate any help. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> I have heard in a few places that people go with Kubota or JD because the TC33D cannot accept a Top & Tilt. Is this true?</font>
No.

<font color="blue">Is it possible on any of the TC series?</font>
Any tractor, regardless of brand, that can have 2 rear remotes can support Top and Tilt.

<font color="blue"> Also, what is the maximum number of rear remotes a TC33D can accept? I know they have 2 empty slots on the fender for the controls but can you install more than that if required? </font>
I've only ever seen 2. Perhaps Spencer200 can answer for sure.

<font color="blue"> Wouldn't you want a floating center link for a rear finish mower? </font>
I'd imagine that for the top link to need to move in and out, the rear of the RFM would have to achieve some pretty severe angles. I've never seen any rear implement come with it's own top link.

 

[gordon]

Even if you only have one remote there are still other options out there. Sometimes more expensive but here is a link to a hydraulic multiplier. So there are always options.

HYDRAULIC MULTIPLIER

Gordon

 

[Neophyte]

Gordon,

Neat product, thanks for the link.

 

[Neophyte]

MikePA,

Maybe they meant it was not a factory option? Who is a good aftermarket supplier of Top and Tilt units?

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue">Who is a good aftermarket supplier of Top and Tilt units? </font>
I've never seen a single supplier of a TnT kit, i.e., a place you can go and say "I'd like a TnT kit for my TC33D'. Perhaps such suppliers exist, I just have not seen them.

In most situations, people buy the 2 rear remotes from their tractor dealer (some also have built their own). They then get the hoses and cylinders from someplace else, e.g., CCI, Gearmore, Prince, etc.

 

[Neophyte]

MikePA,

I found the following company with T&T kits but they did not have kits for the NH TC series.

Rankin Equipment Co. - Top and Tilt Kits

 

[John_Mc]

I have TnT on my TC33D. The remotes and cylinders were installed by my dealer, though I've heard it's not tough to do yourself. It was done with Tisco cylinders, made for that purpose. None of the available standard Tisco toplink cylinders were the right length as-is. I bought one that had an 8" stroke, and had to get the link shortened to work properly with my boxblade. Fortunately, the cylinder had a long bracket on one end that just had to be cut down to size.

I've attached a picture of my side link. (sorry it's a bit blurry. The shovel is there just to provide a background color different than the black cylinder) You can see that the upper end of the cylinder has a long piece of flat stock on one end, with the ball mounted on the end of it. The side link worked OK as-is. You can't see it in the toplink, but that flat stock was cut off and the ball welded to the base of the cylinder. (Let me know if you need the final dimensions I ended up with, and I'll go out and check.)

It all works fine, though I have had some problems with a slow "leak-down" on my sidelink cylinder. I've heard of some others with the same problem on Tisco cylinders. Other brands may work better (Gannon??).

John Mc

 

[Golfgar4]

Neophyte,

According to the table you attached, kit # TT152-3N* is available for the TC18, 25, 29, and 33.

I assume (Oh, Oh!! /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif) that the lack of the "D" designation does not mean that the kit fits ONLY the non "D" models. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[John_Mc]

Another shot with a better view of the toplink. There was some flat stock welded on the base of the cylinder on the tractor end. This has been removed, and the ball welded directly to the base of the cylinder (be carefull not to overheat the cylinder when cutting and welding).

If I had it to do over again, I would have left about 1/2" or 3/4" of the flat stock in place, since the cylinder tends to bind up in the mounting bracket when I use the lower mounting hole. Cylinder is shown fully retracted; I could have taken a bit off the shaft end to make up for the extra bit I should have left on the flat stock.

John Mc