Top or Tilt?

[Geotech]

Hello all,

I've been enjoying my L2501 and have about 20 hours on it now. I might be in the market to add a rear remote and a hydraulic cylinder when I take it in for the 50 hour service.

I use the box blade a LOT, but still need to improve my skills...a LOT. Even more than *gasp* my grapple!

I find adjusting the top link is pretty easy and I find that is what I adjust the most. Recently I adjusted tilt for the first time and it was a huge pain compared to adjusting the top link.

So, one on hand, it seems that it would make the most sense to get a hydraulic top link since I adjust that the most. On the other hand, I might use the tilt feature a lot more if I had a hydraulic tilt cylinder...

I assume the overwhelming majority would opt for the hydraulic top link given a choice between the two. Still, curious to get some opinions one way or the other for getting a cylinder for the top vs the tilt. I don't feel like shelling out the full amount to get both top and tilt at the same time. I might add the other later.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you are having the dealer install the remotes, best to have them do both of them at the same time. It will cost hundreds more if you split the installation. At least ask about it.

I highly recommend getting float featured valves. Having the float feature increases the capabilities of the top & tilt cylinders.

Good luck with your decisions.

 

[Geotech]

Thanks MtnViewRanch.

My dealer was surprised that I might want both. Said that top n tilt installs are usually only installed on bigger tractors. Not that they can't be put on a small one like mine, just not normally from his experience...Maybe it's due to the fact if one has the funds to get top n tilt, they'd have spent more money on their tractor too.

 

[/pine]

"Experience" with T&T is being able to make adjustments to 3PH implements without stopping or getting off the machine...what difference does the size of the tractor make when it comes to making something easier to use and get more professional results because of it...

Having T&T on a 3PH makes a night/day difference regardless of the size of the tractor...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks MtnViewRanch.

My dealer was surprised that I might want both. Said that top n tilt installs are usually only installed on bigger tractors. Not that they can't be put on a small one like mine, just not normally from his experience...Maybe it's due to the fact if one has the funds to get top n tilt, they'd have spent more money on their tractor too.

Well, I have provided T&T sets for quite a few BX models lately. Maybe :confused3: your dealer should take a look at what people are actually using, not just what he supplies.

 

[wagne223]

I have Top and Tilt on my L2501.

The top link is used all the time when using the box blade.
It is also convenient because I trailer my machine a lot. I can easily retract the top link for extra implement clearance while loading and unloading.
I even helps get the mower really high when you get stuck in the mud or need to clear barb wire from the blades.

As far as tilt, I like it when I need it but for the other 80 percent of the time it is annoying. Like all hydraulics, it moves over time so you have to remember to keep an eye on the tilt angle. Especially on those long mowing days.
The other related issue is after the tractor sits for a week or more, a small amount of air seems to enter the quick connection making the drifting issue worse.

I have learned to fully cycle the tilt cylinder 3 times when I first start the tractor for a workday to "prime" it. This keeps the drifting to a minimum.

Again, annoying but not annoying enough to remove the tilt cylinder and install when I need it.

 

[ericm979]

I only use tilt when box blading across a slope. If it's flat I don't use it, and I don't use it for other implements (chipper, rotary cutter). I use the tilt all the time. I tilt the chipper up so I can get it out of the barn which has a short ramp at the door. And to set the angle of the chipper when putting it down on uneven terrain (which is most of my terrain). For the rotary cutter I don't mess with the top much once I have it set right. Both cylidners do leak down a little so there's some repositioning every few times I use the tractor.

Top and tilt both make attaching and detaching an implement easier. I hook up the non tilt side first and then use the tilt to get that side to line up.

If you're getting remotes get two- it's not much more $$ than installing one.

 

[Geotech]

I have Top and Tilt on my L2501.

The top link is used all the time when using the box blade.
It is also convenient because I trailer my machine a lot. I can easily retract the top link for extra implement clearance while loading and unloading.
I even helps get the mower really high when you get stuck in the mud or need to clear barb wire from the blades.

As far as tilt, I like it when I need it but for the other 80 percent of the time it is annoying. Like all hydraulics, it moves over time so you have to remember to keep an eye on the tilt angle. Especially on those long mowing days.
The other related issue is after the tractor sits for a week or more, a small amount of air seems to enter the quick connection making the drifting issue worse.

I have learned to fully cycle the tilt cylinder 3 times when I first start the tractor for a workday to "prime" it. This keeps the drifting to a minimum.

Again, annoying but not annoying enough to remove the tilt cylinder and install when I need it.

That is something I would not have thought of. My tractor typically only gets used every one or two weeks, sometimes it sits for three or four weeks. I don't have any leak down issues with the 3ph as I have forgotten to lower it a couple times and it stayed up with a 430 lb box blade on it. I haven't forgotten the loader up. If the top link leaks down while the tractor sits, does it require some kind of adjustment, or does it just snap back up when you start the tractor?

 

[IXLR8]

As others have suggested. If you are adding one remote... have them add the second it will be cheaper over all. I have top and tilt on my tractor. When using my box blade, I use the tilt all the time, rarely use the top now that my road is in fairly decent shape. When I use my rear grader blade, I use top and tilt about the same. If you choose not to do both cylinders at once, which one you get will depend on your primary use. After using my box blade with manual adjustments, I will not have a tractor without both top and tilt cylinders.

 

[wagne223]

That is something I would not have thought of. My tractor typically only gets used every one or two weeks, sometimes it sits for three or four weeks. I don't have any leak down issues with the 3ph as I have forgotten to lower it a couple times and it stayed up with a 430 lb box blade on it. I haven't forgotten the loader up. If the top link leaks down while the tractor sits, does it require some kind of adjustment, or does it just snap back up when you start the tractor?

Like any hydraulic on the tractor, once you start the machine you simply move the control to reposition the cylinder.

Dont get me wrong, I feel that top and tilt is a great option and I would not be without it.

I just wanted you to be aware that you have to periodically check the position.