Top Link ?

[LD1]

For those with hydraulic top links..... I see hooking up an implement could be a pain at times.... wrestling with a heavy cylinder, and if it’s not the ‘right length’ you can’t just screw it in/out, it’s a trip back around (into the cab to wiggle a lever) to adjust the length, hopefully just once! I guess it’s all good exercise! And what about hanging it when not in use? A new bracket of some sort must be in order?

Non-issue for me.

You arent wrestling a heavy cylinder. It stays pinned to the tractor. Just rotate it into position.

IT takes a couple minutes with scraps or even $5 in parts to bend a new (larger) hook to support it in the same fashion as the threaded toplink when not in use.

And on mine, I can reach the remote lever from the back to adjust its length to hook up.

And as simple as all of that is....thats WORST CASE scenario stuff. The EASIEST method is simply to get a quick hitch and make sure all your implements are QH compatible. The ONLY time my QH comes off is for my old 3-bottom plow that pre-dates quick hitch compatibility. And since I only use it once a year to plow a 2 acre field and a 1/4 acre garden.....and its easy to hook up with the above method....I havent modified it to QH compatible yet

 

[ptsg]

I just hang my hydraulic top link on the original hanger for the mechanical top link.

I built the hydraulic top link myself and just added a link of chain I had laying around and a big hose clamp to hold it place. I'll probably just weld the chain link on the barrel when it's time to take the cylinder apart to change seals.

 

[Tinhack]

The top cylinder is a non-issue for me too. It stays attached to the quick hitch.

 

[oosik]

Yes - Thunder Chicken - at first, connecting the hydraulic top link was a PITA. Back/forth - longer/shorter. Then I had a brain fart. Rope around the cylinder and tie off to the clip that held the "Slow moving vehicle" sign. Hold the heavy 'ol top link up. Then up on the drivers seat - looking back over the seat - activate the lever until the hydraulic top link end slips into the connection on the implement. Just as "ptsg" has done - only with a rope.

I REALLY like the way ptsg has attached the single link to the top of the cylinder. I'm going to do that today. Pure genius.

I ALWAYS have something on the 3-point - usually my rear blade. Moving between implements and connections - the top link is held up with my rope.

 

[oosik]

OK - so I had a heavy duty carabiner handy. Allows me to have a loop, already adjusted, on each end of the rope. I might have to go higher on the tractor end of the rope. So it's not such a straight pull. Time will tell.

Thanks for your picture - ptsg.

 

[_RaT_]

The top cylinder is a non-issue for me too. It stays attached to the quick hitch.

Your cookin with gas!

 

[OzarkChris]

Mine doesn't have one and it functions perfectly. It doesn't leak down. If you have one that leaks down you have something wrong.

I don't believe this is "completely" true. I believe on most newer tractors it actually depends on a couple of things. The type of remote valve used and the type of hydraulic system on the tractor. "Most" newer tractors use a passive type of hydraulic system where "All" of the secondary hydraulic flow systems (almost everything except the HST or other hydraulic drive and power steering) are all tied together at either a different/lower priority or pretty much a separate system (kind of, sort of anyway). What this means is if you have something on the FEL end that "hoggs" most (or all) available fluid, your top link can drift on you depending on remote valve type. With a lock valve (or what ever you want to call it) it will "lock" the cylinder in place so it can't drift regardless how much fluid is used somewhere else. Workonit is correct as long as the normal other functions don't starve the remote(s) of fluid. I believe if you have a on-off-on spring centered remote valve this could also keep the cylinder from drifting; however, in my opinion, this would really, really limit the usefulness of that remote.

Chris

 

[grsthegreat]

For those with hydraulic top links..... I see hooking up an implement could be a pain at times.... wrestling with a heavy cylinder, and if it’s not the ‘right length’ you can’t just screw it in/out, it’s a trip back around (into the cab to wiggle a lever) to adjust the length, hopefully just once! I guess it’s all good exercise! And what about hanging it when not in use? A new bracket of some sort must be in order?

not at all. i even have a cab. i made a push/pull stick out of EMT and wrapped ends to prevent scratching my glass/cab plastic. i can reach in and fine tune the top link easily. actuallt takes less time to hook up than my old screw in top link.

my top link .. ordered from my kioti dealer,... came with hoses and hanging bracket. but i had to weld on a clip at the tractor side for it to hang from.

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[EddinKY]

I’ve been thinking about a hydraulic top link for my kioti DK5510. Preferably cat 2. Any suggestions on where to get a good top link? Do they come as kits or do I need to buy hoses, couplers 90 elbows separately? I already have 2 sets of rear remotes.

I looked around for a hydraulic cat 1 locking block top link and hoses. Ended up buying it at tractor supply. Good price, shipped free to local store. Hose kit is very handy. They also have cat 2. Very pleased with the product.

 

[workinonit]

I don't believe this is "completely" true. I believe on most newer tractors it actually depends on a couple of things. The type of remote valve used and the type of hydraulic system on the tractor. "Most" newer tractors use a passive type of hydraulic system where "All" of the secondary hydraulic flow systems (almost everything except the HST or other hydraulic drive and power steering) are all tied together at either a different/lower priority or pretty much a separate system (kind of, sort of anyway). What this means is if you have something on the FEL end that "hoggs" most (or all) available fluid, your top link can drift on you depending on remote valve type. With a lock valve (or what ever you want to call it) it will "lock" the cylinder in place so it can't drift regardless how much fluid is used somewhere else. Workonit is correct as long as the normal other functions don't starve the remote(s) of fluid. I believe if you have a on-off-on spring centered remote valve this could also keep the cylinder from drifting; however, in my opinion, this would really, really limit the usefulness of that remote.

Chris

I'm certainly no hydraulics expert however I have probably plumbed as many hydraulic lines and attached as many hoses as the next guy. I have never heard of any hydraulics that are supposed to leak down as you describe. There's not an FEL on a tractor anywhere that is supposed to leak down nor a 3 PH that is either. Unless they are built to do that then they are just plain leaking and shouldn't be. I can tell you out of the 20 or so tractors we have owned and the other 100 or so I've operated not a one of them leaked down because it was normal. I still say if a hydraulic system is leaking down it should be repaired. If the valve is closed to a particular cylinder I would think it would have to be isolated from all other hydraulic flow.