Top Link questions

   / Top Link questions #1  

kerlingb

New member
Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
18
Location
KS
Tractor
none
I'm planning on purchasing an hydraulic toplink for my ~40hp, cat 1 Montana 4320. I measured the top link length of all of my implements with the implement leveled and found they range from 25 3/8 to 27 3/8.

I found this link for sale: 2X11X1.18 CATEGORY 1 HYDRAULIC DOUBLE ACTING TOP LINK CYLINDER

If I'm reading this right, my implements fall almost exactly in the middle of the working length of this cylinder. That's what I should be aiming for, right?

Do you think this top link length is about what I should be aiming for?
Also, any opinions on the brand / website I found the link on?

Thanks in advance.
 
   / Top Link questions
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Also, can someone help me identify the type of connectors I need?
IMG_1519.JPGIMG_1520.JPG
 
   / Top Link questions #3  
I've bought a lot of hydraulics from Surplus Center. Never any problems. Quick shipments.

Yes, that top link will give you 20 7/8" thru 31 7/8" length range.
 
   / Top Link questions #4  
Not being familiar with your tractor brand I hesitate to suggest a specific coupler. Maybe visit with your dealer if someone else doesn't offer information??

If you study this you can order all the parts you need to complete this install from Surplus Center. Take some careful measurements for correct hose length. Go long. Consider the height variations involved in raising/lowering your 3pt. I also like to use 3/8" or smaller hose. It's not as bulky and flexes much better than 1/2".





20170109_112001 (1280x720).jpg
 
   / Top Link questions #5  
What implements do you want to use? I've found for my needs I wanted my top link with only a inches from shortest possible when level.

Your couplings will have markings on them that will tell you the brand and model number. You will need that info and a cross reference guide to get the right QD fittings.

Mahindra 1538 hydraulic top and tilt, third 3rd function - YouTube

The second half of this video shows my setup and why I wanted a bit longer ram.

Most of the hydraulic gurus on here say the ram with a check valve on it is redundant and not needed. Beyond that finding a ram with the proper ends will be the limiter.
You will wonder how you ever lived without the ram once you get it!
 
   / Top Link questions #6  
What are your intended uses for the toplink?

Does your remote valve have float?

On the surface of things, a 2" diameter cylinder seems a bit small for a 4000# tractor with 3200# rear lift
 
   / Top Link questions
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I do not know if the remote has float. How would i tell?

I have:
5' light duty brush mover
5' Box Blade
5' disc harrow
pallet forks
dirt scoop

I mainly do brush clearing/mowing and food plot work.
I do use the pallet forks to move around a 250 gallon IBC tote of water to water saplings in a small orchard (20 trees). This is heavier than any of my other implements, but i can't even get it full before the front end gets too light at about 175 gal (or about 1600lb by my calculations (including tote and forks). I don't have a FEL, so i assume i won't be able to use the 3pt to its max rated
 
   / Top Link questions #8  
Probably be okay with the 2" then since you arent using things to their fullest potential. The big concern isnt lifting and adjusting implements. Its the pressure spikes induced into the lines when going over pumps and something heavy is back there. But with the cylinder you link, which has DPCV, your hoses wouldnt see the spikes.....but that leads me to my next point....

Do you have a float valve or just a standard 3-position valve? Because if you have a float valve, that toplink wont allow you to float.
 
   / Top Link questions #9  
I didn't use a cylinder with a lock valve because I wanted to still have "float" function.

On the other side of that, almost all tractors have leaky valves. The cylinder with lock valve overcomes that and the top link will never "drift".
 
   / Top Link questions #10  
I didn't use a cylinder with a lock valve because I wanted to still have "float" function.

On the other side of that, almost all tractors have leaky valves. The cylinder with lock valve overcomes that and the top link will never "drift".

Two ways around that "drift" is to either put shutoff valves on the remote. I use these: 1/2 NPT 15 GPM PRINCE WFC-8 IN-LINE FLOW CONTROL where you can simple shut off that cylinder.

Other people just unhook the hoses to accomplish the same thing.

For me, I would not want to give up float. But if the valve dont even have float, you would be fine
 

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