Toothbar question

[JDL538]

I'm looking to buy a toothbar for my CK30 which brand is the best, do you have to weld the Markam, and if you don't do they work OK? Or are there other brands that or better? Has anyone used yankeewarehouse.net, or other ones on e-bay.
Thanks
John
N.KY

 

[MichiganIron]

We use the Hoerst Welding (HLA) toothbars on the CK Tractors. They slip over the cutting edge and bolt on thru the side wall of the bucket. Never has any trouble with them.

 

[JDL538]

How much are they for 59 1/2 in KL 130 TO 41007 and how many bolts do you have to drill??

 

[wallace]

We sell the Woods brand and you only need to drill 2 holes in the sidewall of the bucket.

 

[IslandTractor]

Markham is another toothbar manufacturer that sells a good product. I rather doubt there is any significant difference between any of the brands mentioned. Main thing is to get the measurement of the inside dimension of the bucket correct and then subtract about half an inch. No problem with a toothbar that is a little bit short but too long would be a major hassle to install.

You don't need to weld any of the toothbars mentioned. The Markham directions ask you to weld a square washer into place but frankly that is way overkill. Just install the toothbar, mark where the bolts go, drill from the inside and bolt.

 

[Highbeam]

Markham is another toothbar manufacturer that sells a good product. I rather doubt there is any significant difference between any of the brands mentioned. Main thing is to get the measurement of the inside dimension of the bucket correct and then subtract about half an inch. No problem with a toothbar that is a little bit short but too long would be a major hassle to install.

You don't need to weld any of the toothbars mentioned. The Markham directions ask you to weld a square washer into place but frankly that is way overkill. Just install the toothbar, mark where the bolts go, drill from the inside and bolt.

I own the markham and installed it just like IT described. Works great.

 

[IslandTractor]

I own the markham and installed it just like IT described. Works great.

There you go posting yet another photo showing how desparately you need a grapple. Toothbars are for digging. Grapples are for stumps.

Call Markham.

 

[Mark_G]

We sell the Woods brand and you only need to drill 2 holes in the sidewall of the bucket.

I got mine from Rick (well his wife actually...) and it works great.

 

[Youare]

I purchased one that size from W.R. Long through Carver Equipment. They have a flat tooth bar which allows you to back drag with the bucket a little easier.

Installation took less than an hour. Two holes on either size of the bucket, two supplied bolts and you are ready to go. In the winter I take the tooth bar off for snow removal it took all of 15 minutes to remove it.

Randy

 

[Gittyup]

Wallace installed mine at time of purchase. Never knew what brand. One bolt in each side. Easy on and off. I've worked the dickens out of it moving over 700 tons of dirt and rip-rap. Works great. Is very strong, and makes your bucket stronger too.

While it's great for digging, I take it off for finish work and final clean up. Straight edge works better and back dragging is way more effective without the toothbar.

 

[Highbeam]

There you go posting yet another photo showing how desparately you need a grapple. Toothbars are for digging. Grapples are for stumps.

Call Markham.

I'm not sure if I'm ready to stimulate the economy or be stimulated by it just yet. I need to wait for awhile first. I have determined that the grapple is a way smarter investment than a backhoe or tiller for me.

The only time a take that toothbar off is when I am going to be laying and smoothing out gravel for a road. It is much easier for me to use my loader bucket to get a nice road than to use the boxblade the whole time.

Then it goes right back on. Due to the location of the retaining bolts they get some thread damage so removing the nuts and bolts is best done with power tools.

 

[IslandTractor]

Due to the location of the retaining bolts they get some thread damage so removing the nuts and bolts is best done with power tools.

I mangled my threads too but as they are a standard hardware store item I just replaced them once or twice.

 

[IXLR8]

I mangled my threads too but as they are a standard hardware store item I just replaced them once or twice.

Which way do you face the bolts, with the head on the inside or the outside of the bucket?

 

[IslandTractor]

Which way do you face the bolts, with the head on the inside or the outside of the bucket?

Good question. Technically I cannot imagine it matters but the trade off is that with the nut on the inside the threads will be gummed up with dirt while if the nut is on the outside then the protuding extra threads will snag all sorts of things. I chose to put the nut on the inside.

 

[gordyy]

We used threads on the inside and an acorn nut or cap nut so there was no thread to gum up

 

[IslandTractor]

We used threads on the inside and an acorn nut or cap nut so there was no thread to gum up

Good idea. I used the regular nut supplied by Markham but your solution is better.

 

[Steve_Miller]

Which way do you face the bolts, with the head on the inside or the outside of the bucket?

Depends on what you may hook with the thread sticking out! Don't ask

Steve

 

[joe48]

Can't beat Markham for price and fast service.

Put the threads inside, if they get crud in them wire brush and some wd40 before tkaing off.
If you put them out sooner or later you'll have to cut them off, PITA.