Rake Toothbar, Box blade, Rake, etc

[PaulT]

I don't have a toothbar, but I may have a solution. A buddy of mine intoduced me to some gunk called anti-sieze. It is a moderately thick paste that looks silver grey, and sticks quite well (like axle grease). Whenever he knows he needs to remove a nut/bolt in the future, he coats the bolt with this stuff before he tightens the nut. It is primarily an automotive application for high torque bolts that need to be removed often (like head bolts on racing blocks). Give it a try.

PaulT

 

[cowboydoc]

Mutt I've tryed that too. The problem is that I move alot of manure too and that gets in there. I used the locktite once but couldn't hardly get the bolts back off then. I haven't tryed silicone though that might be an option. Thanks.

 

[cowboydoc]

Thanks Paul. I've used that too. It does work great on most things. My problem is I get into so much dirt, muck, etc. that it must eat away anything that Iput on there because when I go back to take them off it's like they have been on for years and are rusted. I'm sure it has to do with the manure and stuff that I move but can't find anything that will resist it so far.

 

[RichNJ]

If rust is a problem - How about stainless steel bolts and nuts. I keep a good supply from 1/4" to 1/2" for general replacement use where rust is an issue. Don't use them where safety is a concern if they break. Couldn't tell you how many hours I've saved over the years by not having to fight rusted bolts.

 

[TerryinMD]

I just installed a toothbar to my FEL and the bolts are 3/4" in diameter (1 1/8 socket) by 2 1/2" long. There appears to be an extra inch or so of thread beyond the nut. I'm thinking of replacing those bolts with a shorter bolt. Guaranteed that the threads will get fouled when using the FEL.

The question is is there a "better" bolt to use for this application. Galvanized? Anodized? Stainless? I don't plan on leaving the toothbar on for all uses. Dang thing is dangerous to boot!! Remember the posting on "What I hit with my FEL"....

 

[Keoke]

Terry, try running the toothbar bolt from the bucket inside with the nut on the outside. Put anti-seize (graphite) on threads and cut off off excess bolt threads flush at nut. Remove nut and chamfer cut off thread end for easier installation.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

cowboydoc
I use anti-seize on mine. Still collects a little dirt, but less than it did with grease. Much easier to remove, but I'm playing with the idea of using pins and clips. Tried drilling bolts and using hitch pins lost three pins. My next one is to cut a groove and use a circlip. I'll let you know if that works better. Stupid paying job keeps getting in the way of fun stuff.

 

[TerryinMD]

Keoke,

The nut is on the outside. However, as we all know Murphy's Law applies.....

I was just sending out a feeler as to what might be available as far as bolts and nuts. And also, what type might work best.

May have to visit my neighbor, he has tons of the right equipment to handle this situation. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif