Rotary Cutter To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...)

   / To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...) #21  
Whatever works, beats my "system", I've been using these things for over fifty years and usually just eyeball them until I get "close enough".:)
But the first few times did you just "eyeball them" and they were spot on the first time?

As I get older I tend to spend more time measuring to get something right the first time, now if I had a Top'n Tilt or 50 years of experience I'd probably eyeball it and adjust later.
 
   / To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...)
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Guys,

First of all as I went back and looked at the very earliest pictures I have of my tractor I believe that the dealer put the lower arms in the lower hole on the woods cutter. As soon as I go the stump grinder a couple weeks later, the dealer dropped the cutter and I've just been on auto pilot using the top holes.

This is the first thing I will try, using the lower holes.

I have very little truly "level"ground,so I will also try the varying thickness of wood to park the cutter on.

I will also try to measure or count the turns etc, on the top link adjustment.

Thank you all!

I will let you know how it goes.

Be well,

David
 
   / To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...) #23  
I place my skid shoes just touching a 2x4 on each side then slide the 3 point stop to mark it. Then level the deck then adjust top link for some free play for up and down movement.
 
   / To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...) #24  
But the first few times did you just "eyeball them" and they were spot on the first time?

As I get older I tend to spend more time measuring to get something right the first time, now if I had a Top'n Tilt or 50 years of experience I'd probably eyeball it and adjust later.

No, I grew up on a farm and don't even remember learning, just a gradual process. If I was starting fresh I would, do like you or with levels and such, that's why I said whatever works.

You should have seen me learning how to use our new cab tractor and 10' pull type cutter after all those years on other types of tractors and equipment.:laughing:

I now mow with different tractors on different farms with different stuff from grass to brush at different cutting heights so I will often be cutting with a less than ideal angle; using jigs or levels etc. just isn't practical and you often really can't tell the difference. There are also times I find I need a steep angle front to back or even with the back lower than the front.

I find myself heading in the opposite direction as you and spend less time measuring and such; your approach is probably the best.:)
 
   / To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...) #25  
It appears the TOP link is in the lowest hole on the tractor. Moving it to the top hole on the tractor will cause it to rise in a more level manner.

The current setup gives more lift to the rear of the mower. This can be helpful when loading on a trailer. However, it makes it harder for the mower to follow the ground.
 
   / To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...) #26  
I place my skid shoes just touching a 2x4 on each side then slide the 3 point stop to mark it. Then level the deck then adjust top link for some free play for up and down movement.

I am adopting this BRILLIANT technique.

It will be faster than fooling around with a folding rule, measuring all around.
 
   / To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...) #27  
I was always told the decks will mow best when level. SO pick your cutting height at the front edge (Closest to the tractor) with the 3pt arms, then adjust the rear wheel so that the rear of the deck sits level on flat ground.

then use whatever top link that has some play in it. Could be a chain, could be a double U setup..... Rule of thumb was to provide enough slack to have the rear of the deck move up/down 6"-12" without binding.

As to the comments about the deck flipping onto the operator if pushing it up an embankment, You must have hydraulic equipment because i have a steal shaft that runs the PTO that has a very limited travel amount thus preventing the deck from standing vertical (or anywere close).
 
   / To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...)
  • Thread Starter
#28  
It appears the TOP link is in the lowest hole on the tractor. Moving it to the top hole on the tractor will cause it to rise in a more level manner.

The current setup gives more lift to the rear of the mower. This can be helpful when loading on a trailer. However, it makes it harder for the mower to follow the ground.

Mike,

I just checked, it is currently in the top hole on the Tractor side and the top hole on the cutter.

David
 
   / To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...) #29  
Ok. While parked on a level surface, set the cutting height with the lift. Then adjust the top link to about the middle on the travel in the hitch. Don't change the position on the lift.

Test run to see if the mower follows the ground to your satisfaction.

You will need to shorten the top if you want more lift on the tail of the mower or lengthen for less tail lift.

Let me know how it does.
 
   / To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...)
  • Thread Starter
#30  
OK, yesterday I went and got some seat time and first thing I did was using bricks I partially dropped the cutter, adjusted to the lower holes on the cutter for the 3pt arms, and it looked MUCH better.

I have nothing to cut right now, so I dropped the cutter and put the stump grinder on.

I think I have a MUCH better understanding of the dynamics now.

Thanks to all of you!
Be well,
David
 
 

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