RickB
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2000
- Messages
- 15,205
- Location
- Up the road from Dollar General WNC
- Tractor
- Just a Scag
To 1bush2hog couldn\'t reply by PM so here it is
Happy to help if I can. I bought a set of pliers specifically to reach the fuel filter on TN cabbed tractors with loader. They work extremely well and at about $30 a bargain, as they get used several times most weeks. KD tools #3508, available at NAPA and other auto parts stores, and sold under Mac and Matco brands. Good for the fuel, hydraulic, engine oil filters, and even the PowerShuttle filter housing. The engine oilpan and front hub plugs are 12MM female hex. There should have been a 12MM allen wrench in your tractor's completing package if it is less than 2 years old. Bring something to use as a cheater on your allen wrench if this is the first service. The bleed screw on the fuel filter head is 10MM. Use the hand primer to bleed the filter. If the primer pump takes no effort, bump the starter with the key switch to get the lever off the cam lobe; the hand primer is also the transfer pump. DON"T LET IT TRY TO START! When clear fuel flows from the bleed screw, close it and continue pumping the hand primer until the diaphragm returns to the lever slowly. That is a poor description, but when you get there, you will know what I mean. This means all the air is pumped through the injection pump's low pressure side and back to the tank. Do all this properly BEFORE cranking the engine and it will start right up and run without bleeding the injectors which take a 17MM wrench or maybe they are 19MM. A 22MM wrench or socket is needed to check the front axle center section, and drain the transmission. The rear axle drain is 27MM. Make sure the front axle is level from side to side when checking or draining. Pressure in the front axle and hubs is normal, expect some oil to spit out at you. Just thought, if this is the first service, don't let the engine oil cooler unscrew from the block along with the oil filter. The filter must come off the cooler without disturbing it.
Happy to help if I can. I bought a set of pliers specifically to reach the fuel filter on TN cabbed tractors with loader. They work extremely well and at about $30 a bargain, as they get used several times most weeks. KD tools #3508, available at NAPA and other auto parts stores, and sold under Mac and Matco brands. Good for the fuel, hydraulic, engine oil filters, and even the PowerShuttle filter housing. The engine oilpan and front hub plugs are 12MM female hex. There should have been a 12MM allen wrench in your tractor's completing package if it is less than 2 years old. Bring something to use as a cheater on your allen wrench if this is the first service. The bleed screw on the fuel filter head is 10MM. Use the hand primer to bleed the filter. If the primer pump takes no effort, bump the starter with the key switch to get the lever off the cam lobe; the hand primer is also the transfer pump. DON"T LET IT TRY TO START! When clear fuel flows from the bleed screw, close it and continue pumping the hand primer until the diaphragm returns to the lever slowly. That is a poor description, but when you get there, you will know what I mean. This means all the air is pumped through the injection pump's low pressure side and back to the tank. Do all this properly BEFORE cranking the engine and it will start right up and run without bleeding the injectors which take a 17MM wrench or maybe they are 19MM. A 22MM wrench or socket is needed to check the front axle center section, and drain the transmission. The rear axle drain is 27MM. Make sure the front axle is level from side to side when checking or draining. Pressure in the front axle and hubs is normal, expect some oil to spit out at you. Just thought, if this is the first service, don't let the engine oil cooler unscrew from the block along with the oil filter. The filter must come off the cooler without disturbing it.
