TnT question

[turkish]

I have a new to me MX with a factory TnT. At times I’ll need to use the 2 hydraulic rear remotes for a tilt/angle blade. Do I need to buy fixed/manual top and side links to use to free up the remotes, when using the blade? Or can I leave the TNT cylinders in place and just unplug the hoses and secure them safely out of the way? Tia

 

[JWR]

I'm not sure what all you mean by "unplug the hoses." If they are all quick disconnect of some typical flavor you will be able to operate for while with the hyd cylinders staying the same length. However, the seals will leak over time and the length of those cylinders will change. I think for overall satisfaction you will need to put the non-hydraulic links back in place while using the 2 remotes for other things.

 

[turkish]

That’s what I was after. Thanks. Buying it used, I didn’t get the original links…

 

[zzvyb6]

You risk blowing out a cylinder seal if an impact load comes along. Also end of travel reached can do it to. Top links are at every garage sale around hear. Try for a used one. You could also consider a chain to lock-out the cylinder (in extend mode). Be sure to cap the hose ends when not in use, dirt, chaff, leaking fluid will be an issue eventually.

 

[JWR]

That’s what I was after. Thanks. Buying it used, I didn’t get the original links…

The links are overpriced , especially through tractor dealers. You may be able to find ones that work at Tractor Supply much less expensive. Salvage yards too but those are harder to find.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

If your in the buying something mode ... Maybe buy a couple more remotes to add to what you already have?

 

[bdhsfz6]

I have a TnT kit on my MX5800 and frequently need the two remotes for other implements. For short duration use, I disconnect the hoses, cap them and use a bungee to store them out of the way. Most hydraulic hoses have a ball valve that seals them when they are disconnected. Some do not, so make sure yours have a valve before trying this.

Over time though, the cylinders tend to bleed down and lose their position. For long term or seasonal implement use, I remove the top link cylinder and use a fixed length link. I bought mine at Tractor Supply for about a third the cost of the OEM parts.

To avoid the hassle, I eventually added a third remote and ran hoses forward on the tractor so I could use the 3rd function valve as a 4th remote.

 

[Fallon]

I unplug my top link when using my snowblower. Have 3 remotes, generally TnT + 1 spare. Blower has hydraulic rotate & deflector tilt on the chute, so needs 2. You really don't need TnT for a blower. It works fine as long as I level the top link properly so the blower sits level before disconnecting it. The top link will stay fixed at the length you left it at unless something leaks somewhere. The QDs won't let oil out of the cylinder & oil on each end of the cylinder prevents it from extending or contracting.

 

[hayden]

I leave my top link on all the time, connected to one SCV.

The side link cylinder I now only install if I an using a rake or blade that I specifically want to tilt. All other times I switch back to a rigid like which happens to be the one that originally was supplied with the tractor. I found that for other implements that wanted to be level, the hydraulic side link was always drifting down and I was always hunting around trying to find level again. A fixed like solved that problem.

I also have three SCVs, which so far is all I have needed.

So I would start by getting a fixed link to use in place of the hydraulic side link. I'd probably spend the $$ on a factory link so the angles, lengths, hole sizes, and clearances are correct.

 

[JWR]

If your in the buying something mode ... Maybe buy a couple more remotes to add to what you already have?

That's expensive. Seems more practical to get the standard links to me.