Tne New Kubota has finally arrived.

[bam747]

I'm sure with a few tries that you will have it figured out. I'm guessing here, but if it were me I would get the cut depth set with the 3ph and then set the gauge wheel down so that it just touches without lifting the blade. Then you should be set to go and anytime that you lift the blade, only use the 3ph and as long as you always lower the hitch back to the same position with the position control you should be good to go again, I think.

Good luck and keep us informed. Oh yeah, remember the pics.

Actually, from the RBT45 manual...

The gauge wheel provides accurate depth control when
grading, leveling or terracing. The height of the gauge
wheel is determined by adjusting the ratchet jack or
hydraulic cylinder.

Hydraulic Gauge Wheel Adjustment
1. If the gauge wheel cylinder is attached to the selector
valve, make certain the valve lever is set to operate
that cylinder.
2. Operate tractor control lever to change gauge wheel
height up or down.

IMPORTANT: The top center 3-point link can be
removed from both the blade and tractor before
using the gauge wheel accessory with the blade.

So...

You actually completely remove the center link from the 3-pt to use the gauge wheel correctly.

Normally with a rear blade, as the front of the tractor goes up or down a hill or "whoop" in the road, the tractor rotates around the rear axle and the blade is forced in the opposite direction. By removing the center link and adding the trailing gauge wheel to control the depth of cut, the system acts much more like a road grader.

 

[Catman1]

Thanks Bam747. They have not given me the RBT45 manual yet. I have asked twice and it did not come up with the machine and implement. I will have to start whining.

 

[crbr]

Thanks Bam747. They have not given me the RBT45 manual yet. I have asked twice and it did not come up with the machine and implement. I will have to start whining.

CatMan...Just what is the exact make and model of the Bradco pallet forks. Their site is about as useful as a bowling ball in a softball tournament.

Thank you Sir.

:tiphat:

 

[Catman1]

crbr

They are the 42" model. Here is the link on the Bradco site. I don't see a model number on the site or on the forks themselves. They are the "see thru" model:

Bradco

 

[crbr]

crbr

They are the 42" model. Here is the link on the Bradco site. I don't see a model number on the site or on the forks themselves. They are the "see thru" model:

Bradco

Thank you. Their site leaves a lot to be desired.

Much obliged.

 

[bam747]

If you can't get a hard copy manual from the dealer, it is available as a PDF download from Land Pride. Navigatge your way to their blade section and look for a "manual" link. Then do whatever your operaiting system requires to download the file rather than just display the file.

 

[Catman1]

Thanks bam747, I downloaded the manual. I was out using the rear blade yesterday, practicing on the road. It will take a while to learn how to use it properly.

Does anyone have any tidbits of knowledge that helps one to start using a rear blade properly. Mine has TNT and a hydraulic gauge wheel. I did not use the gauge wheel yesterday as I had the top link still hooked up, but I assume that using the wheel is better. so the blade does not follow the tractor.

 

[_RaT_]

Thanks bam747, I downloaded the manual. I was out using the rear blade yesterday, practicing on the road. It will take a while to learn how to use it properly.

Does anyone have any tidbits of knowledge that helps one to start using a rear blade properly. Mine has TNT and a hydraulic gauge wheel. I did not use the gauge wheel yesterday as I had the top link still hooked up, but I assume that using the wheel is better. so the blade does not follow the tractor.

You can use the gauge wheel with the top link hooked in especially if the road your doing is pretty flat already. It looks like your blade has a built in swivel at the top link connection and what looks like the abilty to lock the swivel in the rigid position. Remember to, the 3 pt does not have power down so locking the blade at a fixed position can have its advantages such as blade angle of attack. The blade will ride more parallel to the ground going up and down as it has to with roughly the same attack angle with the top link fixed. Obviously, there will be times when having the top link pick its position will be advantageous. Take a look at your blade top link connection, it looks like you have the versatility to fix or unfix it.

 

[BlacknTan]

It must be tough workin' at 8,000 feet for you and the tractor..

Did injectors have to be changed or modified to work at that altitude??

 

[Catman1]

I will look at that RaT. The manual says I should remove the toplink if using the gauge wheel. I noticed yesterday that when I came of the steep part of the hill onto the level surface of the road, as the tractor leveled out and the blade was still on the steep part of the hill, the blade really dug in.

BlacknTan - The M8540 has a turbo on the engine. 8000 feet altitude is the reason I got the M8540 rather than the M7040. Works great up here. Plenty of power.