TN75 TNx5 clutch questions....

[yeehaw]

Here we go
Have a 2003 TN75 4wd FEL (950 hrs) that I have had about 6 mos and still have not yet gotten "used" to the clutch---(i drive a dodge standard and have been on and off numerous tractors over the years so I hope experience is not an issue) -- but with this tractor the clutch seems a little too sensitive (anybody have the same experience with their TN's?)
Here is exactly what I am noticing?he tractor goes from no movement to clutch completely out in about an inch or so (off we go)...example- if you are doing dirt work or just driving to the barn (in low gear it is very hard to keep it from lurching forward unless you are really paying attention to the 田lutch? it will take you about 5 secs or so to keep from almost popping the clutch?most other clutches I have been around probably have twice as much travel length to play with----my truck痴 clutch is probably 3-4 inches (100k miles) which makes a big difference
The release point is almost at the very top of the clutch stroke (I would use the term free travel but I have heard it used several different ways)?so essentially I could push the clutch in about 4-6inches and it would have the same effect as if I pressed the pedal all the way to the floor probably about a foot and a half (or so)
I don稚 really think the clutch is going out?? Cuz the few I have ever been around other than the ominous smell all of a sudden the clutch action occurs on the floorboard no matter how far you pushed the pedal in it didn稚 matter?
With all that said any history on these tractors with clutch trouble (this one does not look like it has been adjusted) or are they pretty sensitive across the board (understood tractor to tractor will be different) - got tractor from a JD dealership - they said owner was going all green and this one was the smallest one they had so it was the "run around" tractor (row crop farmer owned it)
thanks...

 

[RickB]

This is a manual shuttle, not a PowerShuttle, correct? They use a ceremetallic friction disc which is more aggressive than an organic disc and can operate as you describe. The pedal height should be adjusted periodically to 5.5"-6" from the floor to the middle of the foot pad. While your clutch seems not to be slipping or dragging, proper pedal height may change the ergonomics of pedal operation so it feels better and works more smoothly for you.

If it is a PowerShuttle, clutch calibration is in order.

 

[yeehaw]

you are correct - it is a manual shuttle (syncro shift)...one thing I have really noticed since i like to sit close to the steering wheel even though i am six feet tall - is that the clutch and brake pedals are not even - the clutch pedal is "higher" i.e. closer to the operator --- (anybody else noticed this on theirs also?)
thanks

 

[yeehaw]

Rick - i re-read your post above (misread it previously i guess) and maybe that is all it needs - to adjust the pedal with the "screw" adjustment as the pedal is quite a bit higher than the ~6 inches you describe ---doesnt look like there is that much adjustment to play with but i will take a look at it...
thanks

 

[yeehaw]

ok - maybe it is late and i am not thinking straight...
here is what i found - the clutch pedal was almost 10 inches away from the floorboard (about as high as it can get) once it is adjusted down - clutch operation is the same (still a little herky jerky for my liking...i understand this is how they operate, yet I would think they would have a little more "room" to play with)
if this is true and the operation is the same at both heights_ then what is the benefit for having the clutch at different heights other than for ergonomics (i always thought they wore "down" into the pedal whereas this is like it is wearing up into the pedal (if it is truely "wearing") hence the reason for not thinking straight
and by a clutch wearing I would think that the release points on the clutch would widen (from previous experience)

 

[RickB]

As a dry clutch disc wears, the prerssure plate fingers typically move out away from the disc towards the release bearing. In most cases, this means a reduction of pedal freeplay until the release bearing is contacting the fingers constantly which most bearings are not designed to do. Many tractors of European design have the release bearing against the PP fingers all the time, your TN being among them. This means as the clutch wears, the pedal height becomes higher.

I did not expect any change in clutch operation after the pedal height adjustment beyond getting the engagement point closer to the deck and at a point where your foot is moving more rearward than upward.

 

[yeehaw]

sooo...
I found a tn70/75 (2000 model 1800 hr) that was the same setup right down the road and took a look at how the clutch pedal was... - two interesting notes - the adjustment screws were at the same point as mine were before any adjustment and the pedal was approx 7 in high (owner never has done any adjusting)....
here is the underlying question(s) - with mine approx 9 in above the floorboard (about as high as it can go) I can of course adjust it down but what type of "wear and tear" has already occurred (percentage wise or ...)
I understand the concept (which is odd considering "most" clutches IMO are set at a specific height and then the gap widens between the release points..oh well)-

Any personal experiences out there with the TN series clutches - I am just not real thrilled about doing a whole lot of adjusting -
thanks for the posts....

 

[RickB]

You have a 6 year old tractor with some clutch wear. The normal, expected action is to adjust the clutch linkage to maintain the correct pedal height. Make the adjustment and move on.

You are incorrect in insisting the pressure plate fingers move away from the release bearing with clutch wear, the opposite is true in the vast majority of single disc dry clutch applications.

 

[yeehaw]

thank you for the posts as that is what i am looking for - a definition of "some" .....it is understood that is what is expected (dealer just says haul it down here and we will take a look at it )- but what should be expected after the "pedal" is adjusted back to its original position from the highest point (avg clutch life now - is it half gone 1/4 gone and so forth)...figured someone might have an idea/gauge of how much life is left from previous experiences...if not...oh whale--to the heat we go...
thanks again - if i could only fix the fuel gauge