TN 75 questions

[smstonypoint]

Did an invisible hand point you to a NH TN?

I would like to think so, but it may have been the "Idiot of Chance," a term used by another famous economist, Paul Samuelson.

Steve

 

[mojoinco]

You said you weren't sure of the model? Several different TN's out there. The 75 is turbocharged (I don't think any of the smaller hp models were). Presumably yours is a TN75S (supersteer, cab).

Seems like a bit high on price, but I priced out the smaller one(s). The only other significant difference between the TNxxS models is that the TN55 had a smaller front axle. I think all the older units (pre 2007?) have the same engine size (just turbo or not, tuned different for hp).

As selling aids, check that the quick couplings release and seat without leaking (the D models used a simpler design that is more manual -- and about 35% the price of the S model couplers). You should be able to add mid-mount remotes if you were adding remotes anyhow (you would have to figure out if you can reuse the cables to the joystick or buy new ones). Also, look close at the hoses. They sometimes have a bulkhead under the right step and can have quick connects there (allowing a more convenient connection point if you remove the loader). Mine was assembled without it -- kind of a pain.

There is a real convenient switch about where your right hand would be if you looked over your right shoulder to the rear. It raises the 3ph, then drops it to the position you had it in. Really is nice when making repetitive settings with an implement (like a blade, or moving snow).

Look real close at the loader mounts. Early model mounts (assuming this has an NH loader) are different than later mounts. The bolts can work loose, hogging out the bolt holes or even snapping off the heads. Pain to fix if left loose too long. ~400# torque on the bolts IIRC. I added steel to my mounts (they were off for a repair anyhow) towards the front and attached it to the frame in front of the axle.

Check out the AC (this time of year, get the heater blowing high, then turn the ac on -- about the best you can do). Mine seemed good, until it got hot enough to need it. Has a leak somewhere.

Cab models are better with wiring corrosion issues than open deck units. Check out the cab filter assemblies as well (just had a hinge break, going to fix mine).

Easy tractor to drive. I lower/raise my 3ph from the rear (watch you feet and hands) by reaching under and moving the levers from the rods. Supposedly, the tractor had an option for the Kioti style rear electric control, but that may have been like a bunch of options, not available here.

Mine has a quirk with the battery and the low pressure clutch warning lights. I almost always have to blip the throttle to raise the charge level enough to turn off the battery light after start up. If the clutch pressure is not high enough before the clutch/trans (?) computer has timed out, a 'gear' warning light turns on, then flashes a code. It will not allow the clutch to engage until it times out, and continues to stay lit (and I think continues to flash). I have to turn the tractor off and restart it, giving it a little throttle on start up. Usually I am blipping it a few seconds after initial start up (oil pressure being an item of interest first), that usually catches both issues.

 

[enfield]

This will mostly be a point-by-point response to mojoinco:

It must be a TN75S, since it has cab, turbo, and supersteer.

Asking price of $28,500 is hard to compare, since there are so few for sale. Other posters have expressed diverging opinions about the risk of computer failure based on a few apparently false idiot light indicators.

The tractor is a few hours away, but since it's near our first grandchild [3 weeks old] we will doubtless be there soon. I will check the features of the couplings you have mentioned. It does have the joystick; you are correct in assuming I would like to add mid-mounts if not too expensive.

Having the 3ph switch you describe would be a real plus. Yes, this one has the blanks in the rear fenders where the switches could have been placed. Seems feasible to go ahead and add some good all-weather rear switches since the feature is already in place.

Are the suspect mounts the ones just ahead of the cab? The loader felt tight when I cycled it. Owner says it has been used very little and mostly just sat in the shed. Tractor has been used for spraying in a commercial nursery.

Other than the idiot lights, the only other electrical quirk seems to be a need for higher RPM to power the automatic reversing function. Moving the reverser at idle speed will not cause it to engage. In practical terms, this means shuttling front loads would have to be done in low range - probably not a bad thing anyway. Will check to see if clutch low pressure idiot light is involved.

Will check A/C as you described.

Which hinge broke? On the access door for cab filter?

Owner has located a 10' Bush Hog rotary mower in response to my asking if he had one. Is this width a good match for TN 75? I would not even consider a 3ph mount, but semi- or full towed models might work well.

 

[charleyfarmall]

I drag my 10 footer over hill and dale with my 2006 TN75DA. For reference, I would estimate that mine, with a self leveling loader and 700 hours is worth around $31-33K, I have the 16x16 power shuttle, and love it.

 

[RickB]

This will mostly be a point-by-point response to mojoinco:

It must be a TN75S, since it has cab, turbo, and supersteer.

Asking price of $28,500 is hard to compare, since there are so few for sale. Other posters have expressed diverging opinions about the risk of computer failure based on a few apparently false idiot light indicators.

The tractor is a few hours away, but since it's near our first grandchild [3 weeks old] we will doubtless be there soon. I will check the features of the couplings you have mentioned. It does have the joystick; you are correct in assuming I would like to add mid-mounts if not too expensive.

Having the 3ph switch you describe would be a real plus. Yes, this one has the blanks in the rear fenders where the switches could have been placed. Seems feasible to go ahead and add some good all-weather rear switches since the feature is already in place.

Are the suspect mounts the ones just ahead of the cab? The loader felt tight when I cycled it. Owner says it has been used very little and mostly just sat in the shed. Tractor has been used for spraying in a commercial nursery.

Other than the idiot lights, the only other electrical quirk seems to be a need for higher RPM to power the automatic reversing function. Moving the reverser at idle speed will not cause it to engage. In practical terms, this means shuttling front loads would have to be done in low range - probably not a bad thing anyway. Will check to see if clutch low pressure idiot light is involved.

Will check A/C as you described.

Which hinge broke? On the access door for cab filter?

Owner has located a 10' Bush Hog rotary mower in response to my asking if he had one. Is this width a good match for TN 75? I would not even consider a 3ph mount, but semi- or full towed models might work well.

Adding a midmount valve would be cost prohibitive by my standards, yours may be more liberal. Expect parts only to be well north of $1500 to add that feature to a tractor built before midmount valving was available.

TN tractors configured for sale in North America have mechaincal draft and position control. There is absolutely no way to add an electrical switch to control the hitch from the outside of the cab. Custom fabricated mechanical linkage; maybe, electrical, no. Some TN series tractors built for European sale have electronic draft and position control; those tractors come with fender switches standard. The NA (North America) and ROW (rest of world) systems are not mutually compatible.

 

[enfield]

All are welcome to interpret:

"I lower/raise my 3ph from the rear (watch you feet and hands) by reaching under and moving the levers from the rods. Supposedly, the tractor had an option for the Kioti style rear electric control, but that may have been like a bunch of options, not available here."

Is the above a description of a temporary shortcut that can be made safer by the addition of well-placed springs and levers? Would bungee cords suffice?

 

[mojoinco]

I looked my 3ph linkage over last summer. It looks like you could make a remote lever up fairly easily. I think through what I am going to do (right and wrong) and look around (count your toes -- situational awareness about those rippers or the rear blade). There is (was) a factory control. Don't have any idea if these are available in North America. And this list is for the TN55S (though I expect it is the same for the TN75S in this area). As it happens I was researching some Ebay parts ads, came across this:
New Holland TN55S SUPERSTEER TRACTOR

Go to the 'hydraulic' section, scroll down (left side) to 1.82.2(01)(VAR.834). Add up the prices on this page, then select the next page down and add the $$$ up. Bet it is a few hundred of them. FYI, the page highlights to blue in the left side index, but after loading a new diagram the index scrolls up to the top. It is more obvious what lever I am manipulating with a picture.


On the mid mount controls, I figured if you were adding additional remotes, you might as well see the difference in $$ adding them as mid-mounts. Otherwise, you could add the bulkhead in the hoses and mount quick connects in the mid-mount location. Looking at my hoses, 2 piece, clearly this was a parts list option. As far as I know (Rick can clarify this) the early models did not come with a loader, nor a specific kit of components. I bought a set of remotes that came with a late model TN75 loader. The loader came with both a mid-mount set of remotes and a set of rear remotes. The user had them on Ebay about 2 years ago -- $350 for 3 remotes and most of the parts (no cables, need the longer through bolts and feed through supply line). And I am not sure which ones they are (NH lists at least a dozen different ones -- electric, float, non-float, etc). I believe they are over $600 each. The seller didn't like the way the mid-mount remotes returned the hydraulic oil to the sump -- return line goes to a drain plug area right under the tractor, exposed to high objects. As per the above search link, scroll down to the 1.82.7 area for all the various options. There are additional parts required to make the remotes work (which have yet to research for my treasures).

The loader mounts with issues are the forward mounts. Others have commented that some of the 3rd party mounts (for the 3rd party loaders) have a 'tongue' type mount on the front of the frame. Here are a couple of pictures: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-buying-pricing/128068-where-get-loader-tn75-2.html. The rear mounts go under the cab and mount to the bell housing, accessible by raising the floor mat. If the mounting bolts look suspect (one of mine had a larger head and was a goldish color often found on grade 8 bolts) I would consider walking on. Or talking them down.

Lone Cowboy (look up his posts) runs a large mower as well. Same tractor, commercial mowing business.

Rick has the grease under his nails on these as far as validity goes. Maybe he will comment on adjusting the idle speed, or the value of having the idle set low enough to keep the clutch from engaging harshly. I would think this could be a good time to create a good relationship with a local dealer and have it serviced if it has been sitting for a while.

My local dealer isn't -- they quit selling NH and Kubota in favor of picking up the local JD franchise. BUT -- they are still a stocking parts and service dealer. They have the manuals and get parts when needed, so I guess they are (seems like a strange thing to be a service dealer, but not a selling dealer). So you may wish to see if there was a local dealer that has done the same (presuming you don't have a local dealer).

I am sure you will enjoy the tractor if it is as nice a shape as you have described it. If you don't get this one, keep in mind the 'D' models as well (no Supersteer, less electronic, mildly less features, like a simple dash, the cheaper quick connects). And this thing is heavy if you expect to take it home yourself. My 16', 10k # trailer is pushing it. If you had a similar trailer, and a buddy to carry the loader it would probably be good.

 

[enfield]

Looking around the parts catalog on Messicks's you can read this listing:
"1.89.6/ 2 [var .821-832]electronic implement lift [open center] - rod"

This must be for a version not sold in the US. So now it seems there may be 2 different remote implement lift control systems. Hmm...

If the mid-mount leaves lines that exposed, it's probably not worth it. Given that the tractor I'm looking at has a joystick actuating two sets of valves, can a 4th set be added for actuation by a 2nd hydraulic control lever? This would make it possible to add a grapple to the FEL bucket and run my rear-mounted hydraulic log splitter [or Besler bale unroller] without having to disconnect and reconnect lines all the time.

+1 on the need to keep bolts tight. A friend here ran across this same problem on the FEL of his son's JD 5525 recently.

 

[RickB]

Looking around the parts catalog on Messicks's you can read this listing:
"1.89.6/ 2 [var .821-832]electronic implement lift [open center] - rod"

This must be for a version not sold in the US. So now it seems there may be 2 different remote implement lift control systems. Hmm...

If the mid-mount leaves lines that exposed, it's probably not worth it. Given that the tractor I'm looking at has a joystick actuating two sets of valves, can a 4th set be added for actuation by a 2nd hydraulic control lever? This would make it possible to add a grapple to the FEL bucket and run my rear-mounted hydraulic log splitter [or Besler bale unroller] without having to disconnect and reconnect lines all the time.

+1 on the need to keep bolts tight. A friend here ran across this same problem on the FEL of his son's JD 5525 recently.

If the tractor you are looking at has two rear mounted remote valves controlled by a joystick, either one or two additional lever-controlled valves can be added to that valve stack.

 

[OnekamaFarmer]

My TN75 has been relatively trouble free. I too share the quirk where the battery light turned on after startup and I need to blip the throttle to get it to turn off. The lights on the instrument panel sometimes are screwy so I can state there must be some electrical Gremlins there but they haven't stopped tractor from operating. My one concern is with draft control as it is difficult to feather a disc with this tractor. Great for full up or down but tough to feather. Had a shuttle shift lever go bad once. Dealing with a will not move backward forward issue now that is troublesome but this is first major issue after four years of ownership.