Time to change the clutch

/ Time to change the clutch #1  

mffarmall

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2005
Messages
417
Location
Colorado
Tractor
Farm Pro 2425, MF 50, JD B, Farmall Super MTA
Hi all,

It's almost time to change my clutch. I have three basic starting questions. Followed by a lot when I get started.

1. Where is the best place to get one from, is their a better off brand then stock?

2. Are their any special tools other then a gear puller needed, or tools that help with a part?

3. Are their any hard adjustments other then checking the pedal clearance and bolt behind it, making sure the fingers have enough clearance?
 
/ Time to change the clutch #2  
If your clutch is slipping, either the clutch is misadjusted (not enough gap at the fingers), the clutch is contaminated with oil, or you need a new disk. The clearance is adjusted not at the stop bolt, but either by adjusting the length of the link rod between the clutch pedal and the fork, or by adjusting each of the three fingers at the bearing.

For replacement, you don't need a gear puller, at least not on my Jinma 354. You do need the clutch alignment tool that Tommy from Affordable sells. I think he's the only source.

In this thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...35-jinma-304-tractor-running-low-2-print.html

I detail the process for my tractor, including all the required tools. Yours will be slightly different but the general principal is the same.
 
/ Time to change the clutch #3  
Hi Mffarmall. We will have all of the parts you need to change that clutch in stock. I can also walk you through all of the adjustments over the phone. It's not a tough job and since it sounds like you have done one before you shouldn't have any trouble. The two adjustments you mentioned are the main things you will want to check. Let me know if I can help!
 
/ Time to change the clutch #4  
/ Time to change the clutch #5  
Absolutely get Tommy's clutch alignment tool. It is remotely possible to get a two-stage clutch together without one, but it will be long hit-and-miss process filled with frustration. With an alignment tool it is a snap. I split my tractor for a different problem, but it still involved tearing down the clutch pack and so was no different than replacing the clutch. You canread about my process here:Major Tractor Woes in Paradise | CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS. Tommy was a great help to me with advice and parts I needed. At the time I did mine, Tommy hadn't quite gotten his alignment tool to market, so I made my own. I have a lathe so it wasn't too difficult to make, but I'd have bought one if I could.
 
/ Time to change the clutch
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Looked at the clutch. Is it just a pain to replace the disks. Is it better and faster to just change out the entire clutch assembly?
 
/ Time to change the clutch
  • Thread Starter
#7  
What would be the assembly that I would need the 8 or 9 inch. What numbers to you need. The engine and the tractor or year?
 
/ Time to change the clutch
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I just went out and gave the clutch every chance to work that I would think of. I tightened down the front until it was almost touching both plates. I also let out out pto springs as much as possible. Then I pushed the bolt all the way in, and pulled the peddle in as far as I could. I checked and there is nothing left but grinding. It has given it's life.
 
/ Time to change the clutch #9  
/ Time to change the clutch #10  
I believe all that blind wrenching has truly screwed the pooch. On these Chinese two stage clutches, there's a definite sequence to follow - which is difficult at best to perform through the inspection window. If the tractor is still split, you might be able to be talked through the realignment process. My recommendation is to buy an entire new clutchpack with both throwout and pilot bearings. Don't assume the clutchpack will be ready to mount right out of the box. There are a few gaps you might have to correct before mounting. Then you can rebuild the take-off clutchpack at your leisure.

//greg//
 
/ Time to change the clutch
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I ordered the clutch and should be here on Monday. I have taken the tractor apart. It really was not difficult. I will send picture. I just needed to take the hood off first. It was a pain After split. I do things the hard way but they work. Taking off the electrical was easy but putting back in order will not be fun.
 
/ Time to change the clutch #12  
I find that if I take plenty of pictures while disassembling that I have no trouble with the re-assembly. That, and I label every wire or connection with tape markers that tell me this wire goes to this wire or that terminal. Takes a few minutes extra but saves me untold angst on re-assembly. Digital cameras have made some things really better. They're cheap enough now that you can almost afford to keep one in the tool chest just for that purpose.
 
/ Time to change the clutch
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I have the clutch out and am putting in pictures. As far as I can tell there is no more clutch. It is gone. The pto clutch is good but will replace. Does the cone on the pto clutch go toward the engine or transmission? Also I put in a short video. My neighbor said it might be good to replace the throw-out bearing. But it turns and move in and out. And does not seem to have much wear on it. I need to get gap spacers. Are there any good ones at sears or ace? 20131222_150720.jpg20131222_150730.jpg20131222_150740.jpg20131222_150744.jpg20131222_150752.jpg20131222_150801.jpg20131222_150806.jpg20131222_151112.jpg20131222_151115.jpg
 
/ Time to change the clutch
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I was asked at Affordable if I needed the 8 or 9. I measured the pto clutch and it is under 8 by a little. Is that how to measure it? Because that is what I ordered.
 
/ Time to change the clutch
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Good then I ordered the right one.
 
/ Time to change the clutch #17  
You really should replace the clutch release (throwout) bearing and the pilot bushing as well. They are inexpensive and there is no reason to risk a later failure just to save twenty or thirty bucks. What's your time worth to have to split the tractor again if one of them fails?

How are the clutch fingers? Any visible wear or scoring on the contact ends where they meet the throwout bearing?

I suggest using blue Loctite on the bolts when reassembling the clutch, flywheel, bell housing, etc. Don't use the red Loctite. Torque to book specs unless Tommy recommends something different.

If you're going to set up the clutch pack on the bench, you need to bolt it to a flat reference surface. In order to get the clearances set correctly, the clutch pack must be compressed just as though it would be in the tractor.

I'm unsure what you mean by "gap spacers" - do you mean thickness (feeler) gauges? Sears has good ones, yes.
 
/ Time to change the clutch #18  
You really should replace the clutch release (throwout) bearing and the pilot bushing as well. They are inexpensive and there is no reason to risk a later failure just to save twenty or thirty bucks. What's your time worth to have to split the tractor again if one of them fails? How are the clutch fingers? Any visible wear or scoring on the contact ends where they meet the throwout bearing? I suggest using blue Loctite on the bolts when reassembling the clutch, flywheel, bell housing, etc. Don't use the red Loctite. Torque to book specs unless Tommy recommends something different. If you're going to set up the clutch pack on the bench, you need to bolt it to a flat reference surface. In order to get the clearances set correctly, the clutch pack must be compressed just as though it would be in the tractor. I'm unsure what you mean by "gap spacers" - do you mean thickness (feeler) gauges? Sears has good ones, yes.

I agree. Replace all the parts.

Chris
 
/ Time to change the clutch
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Got it I will adjust after putting into place. I picked up some feelers from Ace actual craftsman for under $11. So if I am to replace everything I should also get the clutch release and pilot bushing as well.
What should my clutch stop bolt be set to and the arm set to?
 
/ Time to change the clutch
  • Thread Starter
#20  
So I ordered the bearing from Tommy. I should have just added it with the order. But being stupid. I even see back where Tommy even said to get it also. And when they called about the order they said do you want it. I said No. Probably because of Christmas. I grill my wife before she goes shopping. I love/hate this time of year.
 

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