Tiller or disc

[OrangeToys]

Im about to put in a new food plot on over grown property. What do you suggest? I am planning on brush cutting the areas and spraying, but i need the ground broken up

 

[lucky llama]

Disk. On new food plot there will probable be roots and Lord knows what else. A disk should survive the unexpected better.

 

[jeff9366]

An M7060 can pull as Disc Harrow with pans 24" in diameter, as wide or 18" wider than the rear tires, which will cut through anything. Front gang should have notched discs. Rear gang can be notched or smooth.

Definitely a Disc over a Root-tiller with such an amply heavy tractor.


I seeded one 2/3 acre food plot with forage oats yesterday, then rolled in seed with a Cultipacker.

 

[Will_C]

That's the beauty of having a larger tractor-being able to disc, etc. The roto tiller lets us with 20-30 hp compacts and SCUTs play at the farming game!

Will

 

[Turbys_1700]

Get as heavy of a disc that you can afford. An offset will cut better but not smooth as well. If you have room a transport disc is a good option. You can find them used and are typically heavier than three point versions. Look at pounds per disc as a guideline. The heavier the better.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

That's the beauty of having a larger tractor-being able to disc, etc. The roto tiller lets us with 20-30 hp compacts and SCUTs play at the farming game!

Will

I guess you've never seen a tiller like this,

It's my tool of choice for food plots and breaking new ground. I don't even own a disc any longer, as my customers never ask for one, once they see this tiller in action!

SR

 

[jeff9366]

Oooh ~~ La- la.

Jealous be me.

 

[wagne223]

The properties I hunt in NE FL are all active timber land. Any openings that I make into a food plot always has stumps, roots and partially buried tree tops.

For me, a tiller is constantly hitting an obstruction so I prefer to use a disc.
Takes several passes and I usually spread it out over a couple months on a new spot, but it works for me.

Now, on the permanent food plots, that are clear of any debris, I will have one of the guys use his tiller if available.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

It would have to be a BIG stump to be a problem for the above tiller... Big enough to be a problem for a disc too.

In fact, tillers like the above were used to till out the stumps left behind in Christmas tree farms after the tree's were cut out.

SR

 

[Texasmark]

I have been at it 40 years this year and just a couple of years ago finally bought a 6' 3pt tiller. Already had a Hay King brand pasture renovator that does the deep cutting first (subsoil aeration, heavy clay soil). Then it seems that the tiller and spike tooth-flexible harrow have made the rest of my tillage implements obsolete. Better results with fewer trips, less HP requirement.

 

[LightningCamaroGuy]

Get as heavy of a disc that you can afford. An offset will cut better but not smooth as well. If you have room a transport disc is a good option. You can find them used and are typically heavier than three point versions. Look at pounds per disc as a guideline. The heavier the better.

This.

I want to eventually get a good disk to pull off the drawbar of my new tractor. The little 3ph disk we have now you could likely pull with an 8N.

 

[jeff9366]

I have been at it 40 years this year and just a couple of years ago finally bought a 6' 3pt tiller. Already had a Hay King brand pasture renovator that does the deep cutting first (subsoil aeration, heavy clay soil). Then it seems that the tiller and spike tooth-flexible harrow have made the rest of my tillage implements obsolete. Better results with fewer trips, less HP requirement.

A Hay King Pasture Renovator has been on my Want List for some time.

Please clarify your post.

Do you still use the Hay King first for deep slicing, followed by the roto-tiller, then the Spike Tooth Harrow? Or have you eliminated the Hay King?

Do you use the Spike Tooth Harrow for pasture renovation as a stand-alone implement at times?

Thank you.