Tie down advice

[Fallon]

Metal corners, even blunt ones that don't seem sharp at all will cut through a strap in minutes. I half way cut a 15k lbs strap on the front brush guard on my L3200 in 20 minutes. Corners weren't sharp at all touching em, but they ate up that strap just the same.

I only use chain now, unless I can strap in such a way that NOTHING is touching that strap at all other than the metal hooks at the ends.

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

I use straps but made chafing gear for _any_ place there's a chance of wear. Years now w/no signs of problems.

Z.

 

[gwdixon]

Aren't you overloaded on the trailer and likely the tow vehicle?

Oh, just a bit. I thought someone might notice that.

 

[newbury]

On the discussion of ratchet versus the snap over "boomers" - I like both. I sometimes use the "boomers" on the front and the ratchets on the rear. Get it as tight as I can easily get the front with the boomers and then use the ratchets to make it squat.

Whenever I use straps they almost always require tightening during the trip.

 

[nikdfish]

Just a side note, axle straps with D rings are handy for creating tie down points on the equipment & protection from "chain rash". They typically have a 3,333 lb working limit & are available in 24" & 36" lengths. I also use them if needing to use the side rails for supplemental tie down points for attachments (D rings on deck are primary). Our trailer is all aluminum & wrapping a chain on/over the rails could chew them up. They generally come with a protective sleeve to protect the strap from abrasion.

Nick

 

[repete]

5/16" - 3/8" Ratchet Chain Binder

These have performed well for me for decades. I do not care for the boomer type for many reasons.