Thoughts On A Tree Issue?

[Diggin It]

Bought about a dozen fruit trees in late '18. Mix of apple and pear varieties. All grew fine last Summer. All are leafing out fine so far this year, except one of the Pears. It started to come out OK, but then stopped. I'm not seeing any new growth on the upper branches, now about 8' tall. Looks like the nubs of leaves that had started are browning. If I nick a branch with my thumbnail, the pulp is nice and green. There IS new vigorous growth from the trunk about 12-18" above ground, but below all of the branches. Those new shoots are 3-4 inches long now.

At first I though it may have gotten frost nipped, but now I'm not so sure.

 

[Citydude]

I’m betting they got nipped. Give it some time to warm up.

 

[PandDLong]

The tree is likely grafted onto a different root which is hardier than the pear. Sometimes the root variety tries to take over and start to grow its own top and the grafted one gets starved. See if there is a spot on the trunk above those new branches that looks like where two “trunks” were joined. If so, that is probably the graft spot and it may be best to prune off those new branches so the root supports the pear tree.

Having said that - most grafts I have seen are closer to the ground than 12-18”but there are always exceptions.

Good luck

 

[jaxs]

The tree is likely grafted onto a different root which is hardier than the pear. Sometimes the root variety tries to take over and start to grow its own top and the grafted one gets starved. See if there is a spot on the trunk above those new branches that looks like where two “trunks” were joined. If so, that is probably the graft spot and it may be best to prune off those new branches so the root supports the pear tree.

Having said that - most grafts I have seen are closer to the ground than 12-18”but there are always exceptions.

Good luck

Heed ^this^ advice. I couldn't say it better.

 

[HillStreet]

Young trees such as you planted need to focus on the tree structure growing, not the buds. Fertilize with high nitrogen, or just a generic 10-10-10. Also, some fruit trees may just produce every other year.

 

[Diggin It]

The tree is likely grafted onto a different root which is hardier than the pear. Sometimes the root variety tries to take over and start to grow its own top and the grafted one gets starved. See if there is a spot on the trunk above those new branches that looks like where two “trunks” were joined. If so, that is probably the graft spot and it may be best to prune off those new branches so the root supports the pear tree.

Having said that - most grafts I have seen are closer to the ground than 12-18”but there are always exceptions.

Good luck

I was thinking this might be the issue as there is a 'knot' above the new growth. I'll try to get a picture today.

 

[Ford850]

It does sound like the suckers are coming below the graft, but with such a mild winter I doubt the upper scion froze out. If it did get nipped by frost, by clipping all the lower sucker growth it will force the secondary buds to soon emerge where the first ones were killed. I think it could also be blight, which is very common in pears. Google 'pear blight' or 'fire blight' for all the details. If it's blight, the tree will continue to die from the infected areas downward. I saved one of my pear trees from blight a couple years ago once I realized what was going on, but I had to cut the top off the trunk at 3' height, leaving only the stub trunk to regrow. It looked like a fence post until the first new growth appeared that first year, and this year it's getting back to normal and has blossoms.

 

[3Ts]

I have seen grafts that high up, but that's not usually where they are. It is not uncommon to have growth both above and below the graft. You do not want the below the graft growth as it will stunt the above graft growth. And definitely check for fire blight.

 

[Diggin It]

Best I can do for pictures. I'm guessing the graft is one of the two knots at the arrows, but I'm not sure.



.

 

[Ford850]

I don't think those are graft points. They look like earlier pruning areas that regrew and were pruned again, causing some scarring (which will go away as the tree ages).

 

[Diggin It]

By the way, it's an Ayers pear if that provides any clues.


Are we still saying to pinch the suckers off?

 

[kenmbz]

Agree with the others. Can you do a pic of the whole tree and maybe a closeup of the tip of one branch?

 

[HillStreet]

The graft joint is likely just above the soil line. Clearly a change in color and texture. Your arrows don’t point to the graft.

 

[AWSubie]

Spider mites maybe. Have you sprayed with neem oil ?

 

[Diggin It]

No spraying, but really no bugs to speak of yet.

Full shots didn't come out, will try again later.


Closeups aren't real clear either, but the best I can do. No green showing at the tips, only gray/brown. Did a couple more thumbnail nicks and I don't get any green pulp above about 6'. Only brown from there up -- total height is about 8'.



Note, all other fruit trees in the same planting area, several apple, another pear variety and two cherry trees are leafed out and growing normally.

 

[3Ts]

From what you describe and from what I see in your pictures, I'm more inclined to think it's caused by fireblight.

Fire blight - Wikipedia

 

[Diggin It]

"Symptoms on blossoms include water soaking of the floral receptacle, ovary, and peduncles. This results in a dull, gray-green appearance at 1–2 weeks after petal fall, and eventually tissues will shrivel and turn black. The base of the blossom and young fruit show similar symptoms as infection spreads. Opaque white- or amber-colored droplets of bacterial ooze can be seen on the infected tissue when the environment is high in humidity. Shoots show similar symptoms but develop much more rapidly. A “Shepherd's Crook” can be seen when the tip of the shoot wilts, and diseased shoot leaves typically have blackening along the mid-vein and then die. In number, diseased shoots give the tree a blighted appearance. Initial infection of blossoms and shoots can spread to larger tree limbs. Branches will darken and become water soaked. Advanced infection develops cracks in bark and a sunken surface. Wood under the bark will become streaked with black discoloration. "

I see none of the bold and remember, the leaves haven't even formed yet, let alone the blossoms.

There may be some of the red bold, but that could be natural bark texture also.

 

[herm0016]

From what you describe and from what I see in your pictures, I'm more inclined to think it's caused by fireblight.

Fire blight - Wikipedia

agree. our 65 yo apple is getting decimated. it's very sad. keep having to cut more out of it. it also hit a pear tree stump I am coaxing into a pear bearing bush.

 

[Diggin It]

Nothing has changed. No growth above a certain point. Below there is vigorous new growth. Sooooo... prune the top off and let the new take over?

 

[Ford850]

Nothing has changed. No growth above a certain point. Below there is vigorous new growth. Sooooo... prune the top off and let the new take over?

That's what I would do. I would prune it back to just above the new growth.