This has me stumped.

[M59]

Without knowing the exact spec number the normal configuration for the OP's engine is a single twin barrel carb.

So based on your response, I presume each barrel feeds only its dedicated cylinder and each barrel will have a low and high rpm circuit with the barrel OR is one barrel dedicated to low rpm and feeds both cylinders and separate second barrel for high rpm feeding both cylinders?

 

[RandyT]

So based on your response, I presume each barrel feeds only its dedicated cylinder and each barrel will have a low and high rpm circuit with the barrel OR is one barrel dedicated to low rpm and feeds both cylinders and separate second barrel for high rpm feeding both cylinders?

Each cylinder has it own high and low speed circuits in the carb. Most have individual high and low speed jets, but some will have a shared high speed jet that feeds separate barrels.

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92063 and 92063A are the separate high speed jets, for left and right barrels. and 16187 are the individual needle jets

 

[David Wayne]

Checked for intake leak today, nothing. It's time to pull it and get a new one, put 2 new pumps on it in 23 and now an engine. Can't complain too much bought it in June of 03 with 66hrs on it.
Much thanks to all for the help but I'm tired of messing with it.

David

 

[M59]

Each cylinder has it own high and low speed circuits in the carb. Most have individual high and low speed jets, but some will have a shared high speed jet that feeds separate barrels.

PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment

Parts lookup and repair parts diagrams for outdoor equipment like Toro mowers, Cub Cadet tractors, Husqvarna chainsaws, Echo trimmers, Briggs engines, etc.

www.partstree.com

92063 and 92063A are the separate high speed jets, for left and right barrels. and 16187 are the individual needle jets

RandyT,

Thanks for info on carb setup. Kind of moot point now since it appears OP has decided to dump the whole problem and buy a "new one".

Based on your excellent details of each cylinder being served by its own air fuel mix, I again believe the power loss on L cylinder is entirely due to a restricted/ plugged high rpm fuel delivery circuit that serves that cylinder. A relatively easy test to verify yea or nay and not that hard or expensive to fix.

 

[DeepandDirty]

My mower has a Kawasaki FH680V +- 1400 hrs. Lost power ran rough- no spark on right side.
I replaced both coils and plugs and thought it was fixed runs smooth as silk, but at anything above about half throttle and it loses the left cyl. I have checked spark to ground and it throws a strong half inch spark, set valve lash on both sides, cleaned carb, swapped coils and plugs side to side, confirmed the choke is not closing, tested compression 80lbs on right its the good running side, and 90lbs on the left. I don't know what to do next short of a complete teardown and I never was confident in rebuilt small engines. Any ideas ?

Thanks,
David

Magnet missing on flywheel?

 

[WinterDeere]

Magnet missing on flywheel?

Then why would it run "smooth as silk" at up to half throttle?

 

[Gord Baker]

My mower has a Kawasaki FH680V +- 1400 hrs. Lost power ran rough- no spark on right side.
I replaced both coils and plugs and thought it was fixed runs smooth as silk, but at anything above about half throttle and it loses the left cyl. I have checked spark to ground and it throws a strong half inch spark, set valve lash on both sides, cleaned carb, swapped coils and plugs side to side, confirmed the choke is not closing, tested compression 80lbs on right its the good running side, and 90lbs on the left. I don't know what to do next short of a complete teardown and I never was confident in rebuilt small engines. Any ideas ?

Thanks,
David

Check Valve clearances.

 

[WinterDeere]

Check Valve clearances.

It's worth noting that this should be done every few hundred hours, anyway. I don't remember the exact schedule off the top of my head, but I'd bet it's a 400 - 600 hour item, as I've done it at least twice on my 1200 hour machine. I'd guess three times, if you count the recent rebuild.

The valves on my Kawi have always still been within tolerance when I check them, but usually drifting enough within that range that I can see they'd be out if I left it go the length of two or three full time intervals. I just re-center them within the range, each time.

 

[Bentrim]

Wouldn't the charging coil effect both sides?

The charging coil is simply that it is not connected in any way to the magnetos. I tis connected to the regulator.

 

[fastfreddies]

My mower has a Kawasaki FH680V +- 1400 hrs. Lost power ran rough- no spark on right side.
I replaced both coils and plugs and thought it was fixed runs smooth as silk, but at anything above about half throttle and it loses the left cyl. I have checked spark to ground and it throws a strong half inch spark, set valve lash on both sides, cleaned carb, swapped coils and plugs side to side, confirmed the choke is not closing, tested compression 80lbs on right its the good running side, and 90lbs on the left. I don't know what to do next short of a complete teardown and I never was confident in rebuilt small engines. Any ideas ?

Thanks,
David

You mite check the wiring from the coil back to the key, or junkson block. You my have a wire with a brake it, and when the RPM's comes up it may be losing connection.