The older I get washing & waxing ..

[timswi]

I've used the Mcguires claybar kit..It uses their quick detailer instead of soapy water. Much easier to use that way, plus clean up is just a micro-fiber towel.

I wax my vehicles a few times a year for clearcoat protection and it makes the vehicles much easier to wash when the water beads. I'm very partial to Mcguires products for ease of use and durability.

 

[bspeedy]

Why does it seem the older I get washing and waxing my 3/4 ton ram pickup feels like its big as a whale.LOL.

I thought the same thing waxing my F250. I cured the feeling by waxing my camper. Now the F250 is just a baby whale.

 

[RyeThomas]

Guess I'm off my rocker then cause I wash and wax my vehicles, my boat, and my tractor.

I am one that over maintains everything and am a bit OCD, oh well.

 

[dodge man]

The analytical part of my mind tells me Ray is correct, that waxing you vehicle is a waste of time. I've had body men tell me what Ray says pretty much word for word. My heart tells me is puts down a layer of protection and makes my car shine. I suspect what is really happening is you are just cleaning the surface really well. I normally clay bar, then follow up with a man made wax that I apply with a dual action power buffer.

 

[General Lee]

I've used the Mcguires claybar kit..It uses their quick detailer instead of soapy water. Much easier to use that way, plus clean up is just a micro-fiber towel.

I wax my vehicles a few times a year for clearcoat protection and it makes the vehicles much easier to wash when the water beads. I'm very partial to Mcguires products for ease of use and durability.

You should give their professional line a try. Much better then their consumer products found in stores.

 

[bigtiller]

You're supposed to wax a vehicle? That's the least of my poor trucks problems. View attachment 517762

I'm with you man.

Trucks are made to work, not to be looked at.

 

[timswi]

You should give their professional line a try. Much better then their consumer products found in stores.

Used to use that when I was painting cars..You're right but the consumer stuff isn't bad when you get the numbered stuff which I can find locally. Trips to the AB supply gives me flashbacks.

 

[WilliamBos]

The new spray waxes seem to hold up well.

 

[ray66v]

I would also tell anyone who wants to wax anyway, you can stop letting it dry before removing it.

But, hearing that, upsets some people too, so I'm not going to mention it.

 

[ShowroomShine]

So, what are your credentials?

I had 35 years experience in the auto repair industry, and have painted on thousands of vehicles, including boats, aircraft, and motorcycles.

I have many different certifications, and have been trained by, as well as, have worked directly with chemists who develop automotive finishes. I have worked with them on testing new products, and their warranty program. Which, by the way, guaranteed the finishes we applied, for the life of the vehicle, without ANY additional waxing, sealants, or maintenance.

Perhaps you do know more about automotive finishes than the people who make them do. But, the information I gave, came directly from their mouths.

Old habits die hard. You are not the first one who refused to accept that you are wasting your time. If you want to wax your modern car, if you feel good about doing it, enjoy yourself. But, it's not needed.

Today's finishes do not require wax or sealants of any kind. If you want to argue there is a potential benefit from it, that's another story. But, I will still say if you do as I outlined, it's not going to look or act any different, whether you wax on top of that, or not. I know, I have proven it. You can too. Do one side of your hood your way, and one side my way. No one could ever tell there was any difference. Because there isn't. The polishes will leave residues that will make your paint bead water, just like wax. Which BTW: is a great way to get water spots.

It's laughable to suggest that metal particles which burn into the hardened finish, will be at all stopped by a thin coat of wax.

I owned a Villager for the last 20 years. These photo's are of the roof, the day I junked it, before and after. The roof was never waxed, or even cleaned, as I described. It took very little effort, by hand, to make it like new again. Had I kept it cleaned, and polished occasionally, as I suggested earlier, it would have been the nicest one in the junk yard. I had better things to do.

View attachment 517760View attachment 517761

Not that I need to provide credentials to point out bad advice, but I've owned a high end detail company for the better part of 15 years (hence my forum name).

I will say, it does seem to be a party line between body guys and detail guys regarding proper practices for taking care of the paint. The body guys want to point out that the paint has enough protection and the prep is important (which it is, proper clay and polish routine is key to the wet paint look), the detail guys want to point out that proper defect/contaminate removal is key along with protecting the paint with a sealant or wax ( I prefer sealants).

In fact, going one step above are modern coatings and not waxes or sealants. Offering up to 12 month durability and exceptional protection they are quickly becoming the best option for people truly concerned about protecting paint.

Like another user said, I can provide plenty of picture evidence that a proper application of wax or sealant along with a clay and polish routine, is paramount to protecting the paint.

Bottom line, after your suggestion to clay and polish, a wax/sealant/coating needs to be applied to property finish the task. Leaving the surface bare is just asking for paint damage.