The Massey Ferguson Picture Thread

[shaeff]

It's only late August, but I got caught off guard by winter last year (well, the last storm we got). Got a new to me blower, all serviced and ready to rock!

 

[JHurt]

Few of mine here. Spent a couple of weeks cleaning out a really overgrown fence around the pond. 20+ years of neglect on the 20 acres we own. It's a start anyway. Even got the wife to drive around one night!

 

[WilliamTO-35]

Shaeff- That's a serious snow thrower you have there ! The principal of removing the snow before you try to drive through it is a key !
I had the chance to buy a similar rear mounted snow thrower ( but perhaps a bit smaller) at an auction many years ago, before I found out how the snow tends to collect in my below grade 400 ft. long driveway !

 

[shaeff]

Shaeff- That's a serious snow thrower you have there ! The principal of removing the snow before you try to drive through it is a key ! I had the chance to buy a similar rear mounted snow thrower ( but perhaps a bit smaller) at an auction many years ago, before I found out how the snow tends to collect in my below grade 400 ft. long driveway !

It sure is! I've got my machine all ready for winter, blower serviced, chains checked and snugged. I'd rather not have to use it at all, but if we get any drifts, this thing should take care of them! I'll post back some pictures this winter after giving it a shakedown run!

I'm actually looking forward to trying it out, odd as that may seem.

I did pretty well with a rear mounted snow plow last winter, but when we got a foot of heavy wet stuff, I really wished I had a ballast box (or my flail mounted) for extra traction and a front mounted snow plow!

I also have an Economy Power King with ice chains and a 4' wide blower for the lighter storms. Hoping to get that one ready to rock before this winter, too! Just got it from my father.

 

[PatrickS2222]

I'm actually looking forward to trying it out, odd as that may seem.

Hey Shaeff ..... I reckon you really mean you're looking forward to using it and seeing it working nicely when you need to rely on it. :laughing:
Hope it goes well. :thumbsup:
I've got to get busy on the power steering on my loader - it leaks like a sieve now!

 

[shaeff]

Hey Shaeff ..... I reckon you really mean you're looking forward to using it and seeing it working nicely when you need to rely on it. :laughing:
Hope it goes well. :thumbsup:
I've got to get busy on the power steering on my loader - it leaks like a sieve now!

Well, that too!

Patrick- is your pump leaking out the snout and into the crank case? Or is it a leaky line somewhere? I ask because I repaired my pump with nothing more than a new snout seal (where the drive gear contacts the timing gear). The issue I had is that the original wore a very slight groove into the shaft which allowed fluid to seep into my crank case. I just grabbed a new seal, sanded down the back side of it as much as I could so it wouldn't ride in the groove anymore. So far, so good and it's been in place and working since early spring!

Now I've popped a leak on one of my steering cylinder lines, however up under the battery so not exactly easy to pinpoint or get to. I'll just refill it for now, I can get a full day out of it before it all drips out.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Hi mate, the engine oil level doesn't change - it doesn't seem to be unusually thin or smell like ATF, nor should the engine - having been recently reconditioned and well run in - burn any oil, so that appears to be the only seal that doesn't leak! I get the impression that prior to me buying the tractor it wasn't used for some years, then "brought out of hibernation" and either sold to me, or used a bit, then sold. I used the bucket quite a bit moving heavy wet clay and mud out of the first dam, then a lot more when building the second dam. As a result of having to work hard for some time, both cylinders leak (one quite heavily) and the valve assembly on the steering box also has a notable leak. In addition to those leaks, severe free-play from worn joints on cylinders needs attention. On the plus side all the hoses and tie rod joints seem quite Ok. I want to reseal all these assemblies and at the same time sort out all these worn components to bring back some preciseness. If that isn't enough, I suspect the pump is rather worn because the power assistance seems weak even with higher engine speed, so a new pump may also be in the parts order. It's quite an easy job - just a lot of work to get access to the top of the box. It will be worthwhile doing it up, because the tractor will be so much easier and nicer to drive. It's just going to be in bits for a couple weeks.
Just on the subject of the pump shaft seal having worn a groove into its surface - that isn't a huge issue as long as the groove is not deep or its surface isn't completely smooth. I've not worried about this in the past. In machines of this age the leak is usually an old, hard and brittle seal finally developing a split, or just no longer has sufficient sealing lip remaining. Some seals in the RH final drive I disassembled amazed me that they didn't leak any more than a small "sweat" - they looked like oil should just run out past them! PTO shaft seal was the same ..... but they were all the original "military-grade indestructible-design" of seal you would suggest belongs on the crankshaft of a locomotive! :laughing:
Oh, and that leaking hose on yours - a small pin-hole leak is a very old and perished hose at the end of its serviceable life. Don't disturb it until you're replacing it. Also, check if the ends are re-usable - you can buy new hose and fit the ends very easily. That's what I did when a tilt cylinder hose burst - 18" of 1/2" hose, two hours work (with a coffee break) and back in business. And if it's suggested to you that they leak, it might, but it probably won't - especially if you're like me and apply just a small amount of sealant to the tapered inserts. :thumbsup: I'll do a thread and include some pics if you want.

 

[shaeff]

Hi mate, the engine oil level doesn't change - it doesn't seem to be unusually thin or smell like ATF, nor should the engine - having been recently reconditioned and well run in - burn any oil, so that appears to be the only seal that doesn't leak! I get the impression that prior to me buying the tractor it wasn't used for some years, then "brought out of hibernation" and either sold to me, or used a bit, then sold. I used the bucket quite a bit moving heavy wet clay and mud out of the first dam, then a lot more when building the second dam. As a result of having to work hard for some time, both cylinders leak (one quite heavily) and the valve assembly on the steering box also has a notable leak. In addition to those leaks, severe free-play from worn joints on cylinders needs attention. On the plus side all the hoses and tie rod joints seem quite Ok. I want to reseal all these assemblies and at the same time sort out all these worn components to bring back some preciseness. If that isn't enough, I suspect the pump is rather worn because the power assistance seems weak even with higher engine speed, so a new pump may also be in the parts order. It's quite an easy job - just a lot of work to get access to the top of the box. It will be worthwhile doing it up, because the tractor will be so much easier and nicer to drive. It's just going to be in bits for a couple weeks. Just on the subject of the pump shaft seal having worn a groove into its surface - that isn't a huge issue as long as the groove is not deep or its surface isn't completely smooth. I've not worried about this in the past. In machines of this age the leak is usually an old, hard and brittle seal finally developing a split, or just no longer has sufficient sealing lip remaining. Some seals in the RH final drive I disassembled amazed me that they didn't leak any more than a small "sweat" - they looked like oil should just run out past them! PTO shaft seal was the same ..... but they were all the original "military-grade indestructible-design" of seal you would suggest belongs on the crankshaft of a locomotive! :laughing: Oh, and that leaking hose on yours - a small pin-hole leak is a very old and perished hose at the end of its serviceable life. Don't disturb it until you're replacing it. Also, check if the ends are re-usable - you can buy new hose and fit the ends very easily. That's what I did when a tilt cylinder hose burst - 18" of 1/2" hose, two hours work (with a coffee break) and back in business. And if it's suggested to you that they leak, it might, but it probably won't - especially if you're like me and apply just a small amount of sealant to the tapered inserts. :thumbsup: I'll do a thread and include some pics if you want.

Well, that makes it more difficult for sure. I'm hoping that the valve assembly on my steering column isn't leaking, but it's difficult to tell with the line leaking in the same general vicinity. My steering is definitely sloppy, too.

I looked in the manual, it appears there is an adjustment nut/screw in the side of the steering box that can help take up some free play. I haven't had a change to mess with it, and honestly I'm not sure if I want to take the chance. I may see about making my own steering lines out of Aeroquip fittings and lines as long as I can match the thread or make an adapter using the old lines.

I'm not touching them until I have a solid idea of what I'm doing. Sure will be nice not having to constantly refill my pump reservoir though! I do add a bit of thred sealer even to tapered inserts. Just for peace of mind! If/ when you start, I'd love to see pics!

Edit: added a hammer loop made from a pipe hanger.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Ingenious idea Shaeff! :thumbsup:

I'm pulling my power steering apart in a couple weeks to fix everything. I'm familiar with the manual steering boxes, but not the power area.
I'll know more after some exploratory surgery. :laughing:

 

[Norwegian]

Firewood work today

Ser bra ut, kjekt å kløva ved :thumbsup:

(Looking good, always fun to make firewod :thumbsup