The 3520, whats the scoop?

_RaT_ · Oct 4, 2009

Our association is buying a used "harvest" tractor as they call them here. Our choice is a used 3520 in hydro or shuttle shift or an equivalent in a Kubota HP wise. I have not investigated Deeres in many years. I looked at the 4310 prior to a tractor purchase back in 2004 I think it was but could not get past the cast aluminum rear axle. What are these new Deeres like? My local dealer is quite far so before I head out to check them out I thought I would gather a little input from folks that own this series. Specifically how is the loader for removal? Is the eHydo solid? Any known issues on this model to look for? I do have a dealer that can look up all the problems on the brands they carry that have had warranty work done something I'd advise anyone to do when looking at any brand. Thanks in advance...

Cocre · Oct 4, 2009

I own an eHydro JD 3320, pretty much identical to the 3520 minus a couple of HP. My opinion (if you buy the Deere) is to get the eHydro if you are going to do much loader work. I believe the 3x20 series is pretty much cast aluminum from the engine back, but I am not aware of any issues with this. Metallurgy has changed things over the years, and cast aluminum just ain't what it used to be. There is a video on YouTube of some guy trying to get stuck car out of the mud with a 3x20 Deere that demonstrates that the tractor will not just break in half on you.

The loader is off or on in a minute, just make certain you are on firm level ground. Same with the backhoe.

The one thing I would require from the Deere dealer is that they provide a new aftermarket battery. The JD battery seems good for about three years max.

I am happy with my 3320 and highly recommend the series to any potential CUT buyer.

jenkinsph · Oct 4, 2009

RaT,
About the only thing I can think of is on slopes alot of the guys find they need wheel spacers to get a wider track or stance. So far the ehydros' are solid, loader removal is easy but some attention should be paid to the loader mounting shims. Other than that these seem to be solid tractors.

Steve

_RaT_ · Oct 4, 2009

I am partial to hydro if for no other reason then when you have inexperienced operators which we have, its simply easier on the tractor. I recognize and know well the differences between shuttle and hydro having owned both for extensive periods. My current tractor is a shuttle. I appreciate your comments about the Deere eHydro. Still concerned about the aluminum.

jenkinsph · Oct 4, 2009

RaT,
Well haven't seen you post lately but if memory serves me you were one of the first to buy a 110tlb.

Steve

_RaT_ · Oct 4, 2009

jenkinsph said:
RaT,
Well haven't seen you post lately but if memory serves me you were one of the first to buy a 110tlb.

Steve

I was the first to want a 110TLB, already had a L48. I would still take the 110 TLB over the L48. I think Tags was the first....

pilot-werx · Oct 5, 2009

I do not not own a 3520 but the fellow I bought my 4210 from recently bought one. He only has one big big problem.... He lost the turbo in less than 20 hrs. Other than that he loves it.

My 4210 has the ehydro and I have never had a problem with it. In regards to the cast axle housing, have nothing bad to say about it. Although I use the 4210 around my house, it gets a good work out with the back hoe and no issues after a 1000 hours.

What is your concern with rear axle?

I have a 110 tlb that get the crapped knocked out of it in my business and it has been rock solid aside from a few hydraulic leaks. It is powerful little tractor....

Cidertom · Oct 5, 2009

Do try the shuttle if it is the 12/12 reverser. The ability to travel just as fast in reverse as forward can make moving piles quicker than ehydro.

Cocre · Oct 5, 2009

Cidertom said:
Do try the shuttle if it is the 12/12 reverser. The ability to travel just as fast in reverse as forward can make moving piles quicker than ehydro.

Not saying you are wrong, but I have never noticed that reverse was slower on my 3320 eHydro than forward. It might be, just never noticed.

soulasphil · Oct 5, 2009

Extremely pleased with my 3520 Power-reverser. Lots of power. Forward or backwards at the same speed and RPM at the flip of a finger. Dual break pedals on the right side. Very strong loader (300CX) that does not reach far enough forward for my taste. Not much noise and little smoke. Narrow for that size tractor, which is a plus as it covers its tracks with a 5 foot implement, but also a liability as it feels unstable on slopes (after getting used to it I think it's more an impression than anything else as I've never been in trouble on the many slopes I have to mow).

_RaT_ · Oct 5, 2009

Concern was the issues that some folks here were expressing about lower sways breaking away from the rear axle which as it turned out was made of cast aluminum rather than what most figured would be cast iron. Much progress has been made in metalurgy with huge advances in both casting of iron and aluminum. I really do not know if it was ever a serious problem, its perhaps more of a mental thing then a reality. Just curious if JD was still using aluminum on the rear axle. I'm pretty sure the front axles are cast iron.

pilot-werx said:
I do not not own a 3520 but the fellow I bought my 4210 from recently bought one. He only has one big big problem.... He lost the turbo in less than 20 hrs. Other than that he loves it.

My 4210 has the ehydro and I have never had a problem with it. In regards to the cast axle housing, have nothing bad to say about it. Although I use the 4210 around my house, it gets a good work out with the back hoe and no issues after a 1000 hours.

What is your concern with rear axle?

I have a 110 tlb that get the crapped knocked out of it in my business and it has been rock solid aside from a few hydraulic leaks. It is powerful little tractor....

Cocre · Oct 6, 2009

The front axle on the 3x20 is cast iron, made by Dana-Spicer.

Kyle_in_Tex · Oct 6, 2009

Rat, the only failures I've seen posted seem to be caused by either hitting a rear implement hard from the side or by trying to box blade backing up in hard dirt/clay. I've done some of both and have been lucky but I'm now careful of what I do backing up. Its a physics thing (buckling vs. tension).

PS. I've seen a thread of a cast iron orange machine very much broken.

_RaT_ · Oct 7, 2009

Yep, we have all seen many threads on broken castings of every color. Its not a color specific thing. I broke my L3830 brake housing doing something that was entirely my fault. Did a quick online order with TractorSmart and had the new part in 3 days. It was $230 but it also weighed 50lbs. It was back in 2002 or so that the guy showed in detailed pictures the snapped aluminum rear end on his 4310. On the other hand, he may have been doing something stupid like me, chances are good. My old NH 2120 could not have ever broken the rear axle by backing up a box blade, the lower links would bend like semi-cooked noodles well before that would ever happen. I posted a picture of them long ago. I've mentioned it before, if you need split braking, the Kubota HST is not your tractor, I have ravines and cliffs and have yet to need them but then my Kubota L4850 5 cylinder direct injected shuttle wet clutch tractor with a huge cast iron rear axle always has them available should I need them.

I always back up my tractors boxscraper into hard material, this tractor is just designed to take it. Maybe I will have to post a picture of the beast. (In the Kubota section of course)

Kyle_in_Tex said:
Rat, the only failures I've seen posted seem to be caused by either hitting a rear implement hard from the side or by trying to box blade backing up in hard dirt/clay. I've done some of both and have been lucky but I'm now careful of what I do backing up. Its a physics thing (buckling vs. tension).

PS. I've seen a thread of a cast iron orange machine very much broken.