Thanks to all - and HF Quick Hitch tweak

[Threepoint]

Actually I think I was the first with flush pin mod, but perhaps not the best. The first picture is mine, the second one isn't.

Thanks, Kenny. Apologies for the misdirected credit. It's a very neat solution! The top pic is no doubt yours. BTW, on my two HF QHs, I found I did not need to grind down the thickness of the hook's shank.

The second pic is of my Woods BSM84 box blade hooked on. It shows how the QH bracket just fits between the ears for the BB's toplink pin. I've played around a bit to get the pic to open in the correct orientation when double-clicked, then gave up.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I've been thinking of doing a different version of the flush hook mod....just weld the thing solid. I've never moved mine and have modified everything to fit the matching dimension. Moving the hook kinda defeats the purpose of the "quick" part to me.

Doesn't the JD iMatch have a solid mounted top hook?

 

[Threepoint]

I've been thinking of doing a different version of the flush hook mod....just weld the thing solid. I've never moved mine and have modified everything to fit the matching dimension. Moving the hook kinda defeats the purpose of the "quick" part to me.

Doesn't the JD iMatch have a solid mounted top hook?

But that would still leave the tight clearance issue on some implements, as shown in the second pic in my post No. 5. That can triple the hook-up because the alignment must be spot on. With my 735 lb BB, muscling the implement by hand to reposition it is not realistic.

If you have a welder big enough to give you adequate penetration in the hook's shank, I'd just weld on an extension and avoid the bracket issue. I'm even thinking about redoing both my QHs that way. But the welds must be very good. Breaking loose with a full load in the BB or the rear snow blade in freezing weather would be ugly.

If I knew that the OEM hook from another QH manufacturer would fit the HF bracket, I'd even considering just ordering it as a separate part. At least one brand I've seen has a hook with the shank already built out. I don't remember which off-hand, and in any event don't know the hole spacing.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Welding the hook solid would give exactly the same clearance as the flush pin method as it's usually the bolt heads that are in the way. From what I can see in your pic, welding it would have provided the same clearance. I'd weld it with either my Hobart 140 or my Lincoln 225 AC/DC and not have any worries about it being strong enough. I'd have more issues trying to drill the 1/2 holes in the 1" bar stock as my drill press is less than stellar.

Even more important than addressing the top hook on mine, I need to add a little pyramid on the top of each lower hook to help them to slide into position easier rather than the flat top of the hooks that sometimes either the pin or the brackets try to sit on.

 

[KennyG]

The original i-Match had a solid top hook. The current ones are adjustable. I don't know if the original is still available.

The problem with a non-adjustable hook is that all your implements have to be QH compatible (15 inches between lower and upper pins) or you have to modify them to be compatible. As we discussed way back when this first came up, I needed the adjustable hook because I had some implements that were QH compatible, some that I was able to easily modify and one (my 3 point splitter) that was impossible to modify.

 

[Threepoint]

Welding the hook solid would give exactly the same clearance as the flush pin method as it's usually the bolt heads that are in the way. From what I can see in your pic, welding it would have provided the same clearance.

I agree with this. But it's the overall width of the QH bracket itself that still is an issue for me. I've attached another pic that shows the QH bracket protruding 1" between the ears on this particular implement. The 1/4" sides of the bracket mean for 1/2" less clearance when I'm trying to hook up. So my alignment has to be almost perfect at the top pin. There is much more clearance, side to side, at the lower implement pins. All I'm saying is that extending the top hook an additional 1" beyond the bracket would make hookup for me much quicker.

I'd weld it with either my Hobart 140 or my Lincoln 225 AC/DC and not have any worries about it being strong enough. I'd have more issues trying to drill the 1/2 holes in the 1" bar stock as my drill press is less than stellar.

Hey, I say any excuse for a new tool! :laughing:

Even more important than addressing the top hook on mine, I need to add a little pyramid on the top of each lower hook to help them to slide into position easier rather than the flat top of the hooks that sometimes either the pin or the brackets try to sit on.

That's an interesting idea. If you do that, pls post to let us know what you come up with.

 

[Threepoint]

BTW, this is probably better suited for the "Harbor Freight Tools That Don't Suck" thread (in fact I may have posted there, way back), but if you're looking for a floor drill press that can handle heavy work like that, HF has this: Floor Drill Press - 16 Speed Floor Drill Press I added one as a second floor press a couple of years ago when I needed a second for a small production run. I've been impressed with its abilities for the $$. I think I paid only around US$300 with a 25% coupon.

 

[bcp]

If you weld the top hook, cut off the row of holes first.

Bruce

 

[countrybumpkin]

I don't use the top hook, I just built an adapter. I have to get out and raise a stand or hook up a pto shaft or hydraulic hoses on almost everything I have any way.

 

[JRobyn]

My local (very good) fab shop cut a piece of oversized bar stock, welded it on, milled it down flush with the sides of the existing hook, and re-drilled for about $60. Beautiful work!