Testing clutch at a dealer

[hepcatz]

When shopping at used tractor dealers where there's little space to drive around, are there any simple tests you can do to make sure the clutch is good on various tractors?

 

[RalphVa]

Dad used to hold on the brake and then work the clutch on any cars with clutches. Should work for tractors unless you have a tree handy to push up against. If letting out the clutch with a bit of fuel pedal kills it, then the clutch is good.

 

[TractorGuy]

Put it in a high gear and see if it slips or bogs the engine down.

 

[super55]

As Ralph said letting the clutch out while holding the brakes is a good test to not only check the quality of the clutch but also the brakes.

Another thing to inspect is the linkage. If the clutch linkage is getting close to being maxed out then most likely you have a well worn clutch disc.

 

[hepcatz]

Thanks, that's really helpful to know. I've done that with cars using 2nd gear and the e-brake. I reckon on a tractor it should be a high gear in a higher range?

 

[super55]

Thanks, that's really helpful to know. I've done that with cars using 2nd gear and the e-brake. I reckon on a tractor it should be a high gear in a higher range?

For a tractor I always used low gear to mimic it under a drawbar load. Low gear/high throttle the brakes shouldn't hold and the tractor typically won't stall out but it's a good simulation pulling a plow or disc. Don't stand on the brakes but a firm pressure.

On a mid-range gear you can apply gradually and listen to the engine. The governor should kick in to offset the load. It is really easy to hear the difference on a gasser when the governor kicks in. On a diesel it is much more subtle due the better torque curve they have.

 

[just_Dave]

Tractor

For a tractor I always used low gear to mimic it under a drawbar load. Low gear/high throttle the brakes shouldn't hold and the tractor typically won't stall out but it's a good simulation pulling a plow or disc. Don't stand on the brakes but a firm pressure.

On a mid-range gear you can apply gradually and listen to the engine. The governor should kick in to offset the load. It is really easy to hear the difference on a gasser when the governor kicks in. On a diesel it is much more subtle due the better torque curve they have.

Tractor governor should be able to give it full power as well until it moves, brakes give and or the clutch smokes. Tractor governor are setup to maintain a set RPM independent of load until it can't give any more power.

If your at a dealer and this is a used machine I would ask if they have any Dirt to go play in and or test out on your property for a day. AKA you like the machine but want to make sure the clutch isn't slipping.

 

[super55]

Tractor

Tractor governor should be able to give it full power as well until it moves, brakes give and or the clutch smokes. Tractor governor are setup to maintain a set RPM independent of load until it can't give any more power.

If your at a dealer and this is a used machine I would ask if they have any Dirt to go play in and or test out on your property for a day. AKA you like the machine but want to make sure the clutch isn't slipping.

Thanks for pointing that out. Only time I ever really noticed my governor kicking in was when I was working the tractor but what you say makes sense. For me the quality of the governor especially on older tractors is more important then the clutch. Clutches are readily available, Governors and parts not so much.

 

[Texasmark]

When shopping at used tractor dealers where there's little space to drive around, are there any simple tests you can do to make sure the clutch is good on various tractors?

I sold some tractors to a dealer once. He answered that question nicely. He just let the clutch out to where the tractor was moving and applied the brakes enough to get his answer as he continued to let out the clutch. In short, he put a load on the drive train to see where the pedal was when he had full contact and to see how firm it was when connected.