Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000

[Soundguy]

the lucas regs are anything but hard to find.

most antique tractor parts houses carry them. you can get them on ebay, amazon.. ytmag, steiners, and even.. a CNH dealer.

ps.. it is not good for the genny to run it with no load and full field. good way to damage it...

soundguy

 

[bigmarty]

thanks
bigm

 

[ebanther]

I have a 1972 ford 3000 diesel someone told me when I install a new battery I needed to ground it but I don't understand what they were talking about can anyone help me

 

[Soundguy]

Of course when you install a battery it will need to be grounded.

IE.. in a 12v neg grnd system, the negative post of the battery is hooked to chassis, positive post goes to starter solenoid.

You should not have to mess with your generator unless you have changed the system polarity.. or have not run the tractor in months or years.

You do not need to do anything to the regulator.

Some people mistakenly think you have to polarize a generator if you disconnect the battery.. this is a myth.. the cutout in the regulator disconnects the genny armature from the battery every time you shut the tractor down. And the regulator itself never needs polarization. If you change battery polarity, then you SHOULD repolarize the genny. Keep in mind it is a "B" circuit system, thus you polarize by jumpering BAT to FIELD for a second.

Again.. simple bat change? no need to do anything to the genny UNLESS it does not charge after you get her started. if that is the case.. post back.

 

[630ForTheWin]

the old timer gave you a good way to cook a 40$ regulator. He's thinking about the older 8n vreg /genny that is A circuit. back 47-52..

all fords 53+ and your 3000 uses a B circuit system. the reg provides POWER to the field post on the genny.

to test a B circuit genny. first motor test it.

slip belt off. jump battery + to field and armature. genny should spin. if it does.. continue on to next step.

slip belt back on.. put meter across battery.. should be 12.6 or so static.

start tractor.. get to 2/3 to 3/4 throttle.

voltage should be 13.8-14.7

if no increase.. jump bat + to field... that should make charge voltage jump. if not, jump bat to field and arm. if voltage onthe bat comes up.. replace regulator.

I"m sorry to bring back such an old thread, but I have a basic question about troubleshooting these generators. My generator doesn't say which connector is field and which is armature. And I don't find it in the I&T manual either. My generator has 2 wires connected to it. The connector blade on the left is small. The connector blade on the right is big. Which is which? If I jumper from the battery + to the one on the right the wire gets hot real fast. If I jumper from the battery + to both of them at the same time the generator spins.

 

[Oh Lordy HepMe HepME]

Sorry nobody helped you out here long ago, hell Im sure your roll'n.
But its true these gen wires aren't marked at all on Gen which must of been a Ford better idea they just kept a secret?
For anyone else who finds himself a bit confused at this I did my 1972 3000 gas genny once.
To determine my Gens wires I looked on my Voltage Reg cover for the "A" & "F" genny wires. Each letters molded in the regulator cap.
Forgive me Im old with DumbAintYa goin on & some stoke chit too but I do remember both my wires are brown fyi.
One wire is larger diameter with a white stripe & the other smaller diameter wire is solid brown color fwiw. Idk if thats all yrs though?