Terrified of tipping - how about an inclinometer?

[beenthere]

This is counter-intuitive to me. To turn sharply downhill, you need the uphill wheel turning faster than the downhill wheel. Braking the wheel you need to turn faster (uphill wheel) doesn't make sense.

I meant the uphill brake. That wheel has little to no traction which means it will tend to just spin in the air and not allow the tractor to move forward to execute a turn downhill.
Applying some brake to that wheel will remove its tendency to spin freely, and thus give needed traction and forward motion from the downhill wheel. Control the forward movement and traction needed by the amount of uphill braking applied.
If in a touchy situation, should automatically do this as there is little to no microseconds to think about it.

 

[PILOON]

Poor man's inclinometer.-----------------
- find center of windshield
- attach a 'plumb bob' there
- locate true center of that windshield and mark it as a reference.
- LOL, next drive such to lift the rear into a 'tip and spill' situation and carefully mark your plumb bob 'tilt angle'.
- Next, in the future keep the plumb bob well away from that 'tilt angle'

 

[dieselscout80]

Poor man's inclinometer.-----------------
- find center of windshield
- attach a 'plumb bob' there
- locate true center of that windshield and mark it as a reference.
- LOL, next drive such to lift the rear into a 'tip and spill' situation and carefully mark your plumb bob 'tilt angle'.
- Next, in the future keep the plumb bob well away from that 'tilt angle'

What a hoot

 

[JWR]

I meant the uphill brake. That wheel has little to no traction which means it will tend to just spin in the air and not allow the tractor to move forward to execute a turn downhill.
Applying some brake to that wheel will remove its tendency to spin freely, and thus give needed traction and forward motion from the downhill wheel. Control the forward movement and traction needed by the amount of uphill braking applied.
If in a touchy situation, should automatically do this as there is little to no microseconds to think about it.

Au contrare. There is no particular need for any change in rotation of the downhill rear tire to get the tractor pointed downhill for several reasons:
1) You were in some degree of forward motion to begin with or you would not be in the middle of a tip-over circumstance.
2) People should not be attempting to mow or navigate on that steepness of hill in the first place without 4WD and you sure don't need wheel brakes to keep the front wheels going just because the uphill rear got "light." As matter of fact, stomping on that uphill wheel brake in 4WD will essentially guarantee a greater likelihood of tipping. BOTH uphill wheels, front and back, need to rotate forward in order for you to "turn downhill." Forget the brakes.

 

[PILOON]

Yes, many people have added those over the years that I've been here on TBN. It's a great addition and keeps you honest (and maybe alive).

LOL, and your shorts clean!

 

[MossRoad]

LOL, and your shorts clean!

Tidy whiteys.

 

[beenthere]

Au contrare. There is no particular need for any change in rotation of the downhill rear tire to get the tractor pointed downhill for several reasons:
1) You were in some degree of forward motion to begin with or you would not be in the middle of a tip-over circumstance.
2) People should not be attempting to mow or navigate on that steepness of hill in the first place without 4WD and you sure don't need wheel brakes to keep the front wheels going just because the uphill rear got "light." As matter of fact, stomping on that uphill wheel brake in 4WD will essentially guarantee a greater likelihood of tipping. BOTH uphill wheels, front and back, need to rotate forward in order for you to "turn downhill." Forget the brakes.

For sure didn't say "stomping" on the uphill brake. Just a light touch to stop it from spinning with no traction. Forward motion stops when that happens. Little to do with power assist to the front wheels.
Learn the technique before going on sidehills and starting to tip. Might save your life.

 

[JWR]

For sure didn't say "stomping" on the uphill brake. Just a light touch to stop it from spinning with no traction. Forward motion stops when that happens. Little to do with power assist to the front wheels.
Learn the technique before going on sidehills and starting to tip. Might save your life.

Hey beenthere -- I was being a little sarcastic for which I apologize. Should not have said "stomping." But seriously any amount of braking on the uphill side in that hypothetical "about to tip" circumstance will be counterproductive. Counterproductive whether in 4WD or not. Will make things WORSE not better. It does have to do with power to the front wheels because (when in 4WD, engaged) braking applies to the front wheels as well as the back but that is not the main issue. You need ANY uphill wheel , still in contact with the ground, to "go faster" in order to participate in a downhill turn.

By the way, stopping that uphill wheel from spinning using the wheel brake causes the differential to force the DOWNHILL wheel to get the power and turn and forward motion does NOT stop! It rotates forward as a result. In fact, that amounts to an attempt to turn uphill which equals a disaster in progress.

The life saving technique is to forget the brakes, gain experience with your machine, turn downhill ASAP if you think you are about to unweight the uphill wheel or wheels, keep your c.g. as low as possible (usually lowering the loader as much as feasible), lookout for holes or ruts on the downhill side, and don't go on anything "too steep" to begin with. "Too steep" is based on your skills and experience not some meter, though the meter makes a nice reference while you are gaining experience.

 

[beenthere]

Believe what you want to believe.

 

[DonaldP]

Really good information here. Thanks to everyone who has offered experience or technical input!

There is pucker power in all instances of what you feel is your maximum.

At almost 800 hours in 2.5 years, starting from never having been in a tractor seat, I can honestly say that I have never experienced a tip issue losing a single side front or rear tire horizontally on a hill. (Side tilt).

There have been many many instances where, on relatively level ground, I was either surprised by or had to plan for 1 or more rear wheels losing ground contact with no front end loads or with heavy front end loads.

I had my rear wheels mounted out as far as they could go with rim orientation when I purchased the tractor new ... which adds about 4" per side of additional rear end width , or 8" total. That's a lot.

But still I find (with the 6" shorter wheelbase of the Kubota 3560 over it's big brother the 4060), that there is just way too little stance in wheelbase of the 3560 to compensate for the moment formed about the centerline of the tractor, with an FEL load and hitting a hole or stopping quickly, even with a posterior weight counterbalance (such as a 7ft finish mower weighing in at 400lbs or so).

The only real counterbalance on such a short machine as the 3560 is the BH92 Backhoe. That kicks in at about 2000 lbs if I'm not mistaken. But even more than the shear weight, is the extension of the backhoe, aft of the frame assembly.

By adding that much weight that far back, there is little issue with any of the aforementioned issues with regard to front to rear stabilization.

I have not yet experimented with side to side stabilization issues or lack there of while sporting the BH92 backhoe. Due to its height, at about level with the roof, but with the bulk of its weight being well below the center of gravity of the tractor I would think it would add some side to side stability. But in a situation where there is concern, one could swing the boom to the upside to give more stabilization... or downside to actually prevent a tipping situation when one is uncomfortable.

That world be a great review to experiment with for sure! Who or how many out there would like to see a video of that test in action?