Tell me what fertilizer I need

[1930]

Watch the watering. They want about 1"/week or about 1 gallon/plant/week if nothing from rainfall. Right now, here, we're getting regular rainfall. Don't know about Florida.

You may have more sandy soil. Might need a bit more. Ask your extension service. Around here, it's what I said above.

Ralph

No rain here at all, amazingly I have been giving them just over a gallon of water every week up until now

 

[1930]

Most important is to do the pH test. You can get test kits at Southern States, Lowes and Home Depot. Trees and shrubs will generally thrive in pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Their natural soil pH around here is 5.5.

Like most soil pH test results, the extension service will probably automatically put in to add something like 10-10-10. It's an automatic thing from when the big chemical companies paid most of their bills. I'd call the extension office itself. I am one of their volunteer master gardeners. I'd tell you what I told you above.

We normally do not advice people to do soil tests before planting trees or shrubs. If they're going to plant a veggie plot, it is warranted.

Ralph

I called the extension office today, I can pick up a kit next Fri when I am there for the day, in meantime I may just pick up a kit at box store. Extension office offers a couple of different levels of testing, ones 3 bucks and the others 10 bucks per sample. Seemed like the girls I spoke with on the phone thought the 10 dollar deal was overboard for what I am doing.

Not sure which direction I should take?

 

[K5lwq]

I called the extension office today, I can pick up a kit next Fri when I am there for the day, in meantime I may just pick up a kit at box store. Extension office offers a couple of different levels of testing, ones 3 bucks and the others 10 bucks per sample. Seemed like the girls I spoke with on the phone thought the 10 dollar deal was overboard for what I am doing.

Not sure which direction I should take?

All I would want to know is PH. In that soil type I would know I need everything else.

For the grass, depending on type, 13-13-13 with all the trace elements is a very good choice. If you have St Augustine, a lower Nitrogen with Higher Potash and phosphates is better. To high in Nitrogen and St Augustine and Centipede will grow itself to death. Although it looks pretty for about a month before it chokes itself out. Really triple 13 would be a good choice for your trees as well.

If you have Azaleas, stay away from them when spreading lime. They like more acidic ground. Not knowing all the different plant types you have or want to have it is hard to be specific.

My advice is don't get caught up in trying to achieve a perfect level in your soil. With sand, things change rapidly and you will waste a lot of money.

Hope this helps!

 

[RalphVa]

Like I said before, it you put chemicals in the soil, you'll be stuck with them because they'd kill everything else. Like pouring salt over a snail. I once bought as an experiment some "Miracle Gro" soil. It was great that first year. After that, it was dead for about 4 years until I got some natural stuff into it. Absolutely would not grow anything because I never added any more Miracle Gro.

If you want a book by a past Miracle Gro guy, read Lowenfel's book, "Teaming with Microbes".

Use some compost or mulch, manure if you have it.

Ralph

 

[1930]

Will do

 

[rgr33]

I am no granola eating tree hugger, but I too am of the opinion that synthetic fertilizers are not the way to go on young trees. They give quick growth results, but are harsh on beneficial microbes. I can see the benefit of using it commercially on large scale grain and hay crops though.

Applying good quality compost on a regular long term basis will result in good soil chemistry, with the added benefit of protecting soil moisture during dry spells.

 

[3Ts]

^ +1 on the organic compost. Sand does not hold the nutrients. The organic material does and also provides a buffering effect if there is to much of an ingredient. The organics decompose so will need to be replaced often.

Not sure if this is available in your area, but you should check on this: Some of the land fills take yard "trash" from the landscapers when they trim trees, etc. They turn around and grind it up and commercial outfits come in with semi-trucks and haul it off to be packaged for sale. Home owners could come out with their pickups or trailers and get a few yards for free. It is seasonal and dependent on them having the tub grinder available. Sometimes they had mountains of it, sometimes none. I know of one nursery that used it for potting soil.

 

[1930]

Im heading out now to pick up the cow crap that was linked earlier. I plan to spread that around my trees today. Hopefully it will help to retain water better than the mulch ring I've already put around them.

I got here last night and the plants absolutely were very dry and needed watering.

 

[fried1765]

Do not fertilize. Plant back with the soil you took out of the hole you're putting them in.

Then just put a couple inches of mulch or just leaves around the tree, but not up against the tree itself. The mulch will provide slow fertilization as the worms work on it.

Chemical fertilizers will just kill the soil. You'll be stuck with using them because otherwise the soil is DEAD. Why kill it to begin with?

Ralph

I wonder if all the farmers in the USA are aware that "Chemical fertilizers will just kill the soil"?

 

[fried1765]

I know alot of you guys have spent your lives growing things.

I have 211 Holly trees that Ive planted in the ground on my property in Dunnellon. They will supposedly reach 25-30 feet height someday. At this point the tallest tree is approx 1 foot tall. Supposedly under the right conditions they can grow 2-3 feet per year, if they were 6-8 feet tall when I start building in a few years ( feb 2023 ) Id be very happy.

I have another 200 + here at the house ( in pots ) that I plan on nurturing more closely and then transplanting this fall.

I also have 50 Shumard Oak trees at the house, ( in pots ) supposedly they can have the same growth rate as the Holly trees under ideal/correct conditions. They average maybe 3-4 feet tall at this point and have pencil like trunks.

What can I do as far as fertilizer to give these plants a boost? I need a specific item to look for and purchase. Ive been told 20-20-20 but Ive also been told that this will burn the roots, Ive been told dont put anything directly at the base of the trunk, Ive also been told it matters not, Ive been told to only use water soluble for fastest results....told many different things.

Not looking to experiment if possible. Surely some of you guys can tell me what would work best ?

The 211 trees on my property I am able to water once a week when I visit the property. I have a 275 gallon IBC tote full of water on my trailer, pulled by my truck and a portable gen to operate the pump.

The other trees at my current home I have no limits.

Thanks

My dad started raising holly trees for sale back in 1955.
He is long gone of course, but many of his trees are still thriving.

He had 37 varieties, but most were the English type, which have a much more beautiful dark shiny leaf than native American holly.
He used his larger trees to obtain cuttings for rooting.
I have not cared for his trees in many years, but they have grown quite large, with no care.

I still own the property (coastal MA.), and it is very sandy soil.
For young trees 2' tall, we initially dug large holes (3' dia), used what humus material we could find, and lined the holes with layered newspaper.
They were watered when we could, but often not.

He used 10-10-10 around each tree for probably about 10 years....then nothing.
As they grew larger they became self mulching.
I think you will find them to do very well in the sandy Florida soil, and the very ample yearly Florida rainfall.

Nasty, invasive, bittersweet is beginning to kill some of my hollies off now.

Just now looked at your crop of babies.
They look great!
I would suggest feeding them about a level tablespoon of 10-10-10 in those pots at this size.
3 times that much when first field planted.