TC40DA Split the tractor?

ND teacher · Jan 25, 2011

Purchased a TC40DA online from a dealer, i am happy with it but i did notice it has a leak where they bolt the tractor together in the middle. I had a NH mechanic look at it he will repair it and the dealership is going to cover it. It collected dust around where it is leaking, there are no drops on my garage floor. I am a bit worried that after its put back together that some of the plastic parts my vibrate loose etc. I want the leak fixed cause a leak out is a leak in. The mechanic says it probably never sealed from factory and was and went unnoticed.
My gut feeling is to fix it and be done with it, but with only 448 hours on the machine i am a little nervous about having other problems that we wouldnt have had if we would have just left it alone.
Anyone else have the same leak or had their tractor split, with or without problems afterwards?
While the top is off of it i suppose i could touch up the spots on the floorboards, not sure i would have the time to sandblast and paint in the 8 hours it is going to take. maybe just wire brush and repaint?
Thanks

RADIUM · Jan 25, 2011

As long as the person doing the repairs is competent mechanic and certify in tractor repair don't worry my 2008 TC 2420 was split in half and transmission replaced and new clutch, that's a cab model tractor a year plus later still no problems I wouldn't worry at all. Things are meant to be fixed and if they're willing to pay for it don't even hesitate to have it repaired that's a great tractor you have I'm sure other people will tell you the same thing, I owned a TC 40 DA traded it in 800 hours not one single problem you should absolutely have it fixed take care

Jerry/MT · Jan 25, 2011

ND teacher said:
Purchased a TC40DA online from a dealer, i am happy with it but i did notice it has a leak where they bolt the tractor together in the middle. I had a NH mechanic look at it he will repair it and the dealership is going to cover it. It collected dust around where it is leaking, there are no drops on my garage floor. I am a bit worried that after its put back together that some of the plastic parts my vibrate loose etc. I want the leak fixed cause a leak out is a leak in. The mechanic says it probably never sealed from factory and was and went unnoticed.
My gut feeling is to fix it and be done with it, but with only 448 hours on the machine i am a little nervous about having other problems that we wouldnt have had if we would have just left it alone.
Anyone else have the same leak or had their tractor split, with or without problems afterwards?
While the top is off of it i suppose i could touch up the spots on the floorboards, not sure i would have the time to sandblast and paint in the 8 hours it is going to take. maybe just wire brush and repaint?
Thanks

It needs fixing, the seller will pay for the repair, and you are worried about the repair process damaging the tractor?
As long as you have a competant person make the repair, I don't see what you are worried about. These machines were designed to be repaired.
It seems irrational to me. You are worried about the leak and you're worried about theleak repair causing damage. No matter what happens you're going to be worried.

djradz · Jan 25, 2011

I can understand the concern. My experience has been over numerous times of having automobiles repaired, when things have been fixed, and although successful, something else is broken or not put back correctly during the effort. Case in point, I had a rear window defroster (and thus the window) replaced under warranty on my vehicle just before Christmas. The window broke/disintegrated upon removal. The installer did a quick vacuuming and scratched up the plastic areas on the rear window deck, where the stop light and speaker grills set. In addition, they didn't get all the glass chips out that fell to the sides of this decking, nor behind the seats, nor in the trunk. In driving the vehicle home, I hear there are little chips in the speakers. Yes, the dealer agreed to further clean, but they'd have to take out the carpetted rear deck and the speakers, etc. I was afraid they'll just further screw things up, so I did it myself.

That said, these tractors are designed to be repaired and it seems as if this repair is relatively simple, but requires a huge amount of preparatory (and afterwards) labor to get everything around the joint disconnected first and put back afterwards.

I'd get the dealer to live up to the bargain and be extremely careful to inspect and test everything afterwards.

jinman · Jan 25, 2011

Well, you know opinions are like ear-holes. Everybody has a couple.

I'm inclined to ask, "Is a tiny seep that doesn't drip really constitute a leak?" My power steering reservoir has seeped since I bought my tractor and I just rinse away the dust and check the reservoir yearly for level. A half teaspoon of leakage looks like gallons when it attracts a dust beard. The seepage from my remote connections attached to my TnT cylinders is another source for giant dust beards that disappear with a simple squirt of the hose. I think you should make sure your seepage is coming from inside the casing and it is significant before even considering this repair. I would discuss the leak with the dealer where you purchased the tractor and get his agreement in writing to have the repair done if it gets worse over the next 3 to 6 months. That way you can watch to see if it starts to drip and the dealer can maybe come out of this without having to spend money on a non-critical repair. Sure, if the dust collection is going to drive you nuts, go ahead with the repair, but I personally don't think a non-drip producing leak is anything I'd want to mess with. That's my ear-hole's worth.:laughing:

fishpick · Jan 25, 2011

What jinman said. Add my eat hole to that column. I have dust beards on my tc45da and jus make sure to rinse them off with work and mud...

SacandagaBrad · Jan 25, 2011

My first question would be what is causing the leak. There are a few of us here with the smaller Class I machines (mine is a TC-24D) that had leaks appear where the motor is bolted to the bell housing. There is no oil in there, but the cause was the bolts loosening and stressing the seal on the input shaft to the transmission and hydraulic oil leaking. Some had to split their tractor and replace the seal. I was lucky enough to catch mine in time, tightened all the bolts with a coat of loc-tight on each, and it "healed" itself. That was at about 550 hours and I haven't had any problems since as I approach 700, which for me is over a year of use.

I don't know if your TC-40 is of similar construction, I suspect it is. It may be as simple as tightening the bolts. Or it may need a seal replacement and splitting the tractor to do so. Or I may be completely off base and its something different. My point is to find out what the actual leak is from. Engine? Hydro/tranny?

Good luck with your new tractor, it will serve you well.

Brad

jml755 · Jan 25, 2011

"...but the cause was the bolts loosening and stressing the seal on the input shaft to the transmission and hydraulic oil leaking. ....... That was at about 550 hours"

And OTHERS had this problem as well? Doesn't anyone else seem perplexed that these "great tractors" have major fasteners that were not torqued down correctly? Says a lot about the quality control (or lack thereof) at the factory. Wonder what OTHER fasteners are loosening up on them.

ND teacher · Jan 26, 2011

When the mechanic stopped over he went under the tractor and checked them to see if they were loose, he said they weren't. It is leaking the worst by the split in the back, he also noticed the next split that bolts to the motor has oil residue on it as well. He suggested while it was apart to do that one as well. is there a gasket? It looks as if all that was used was silicone gasket maker?

ND teacher · Feb 6, 2011

Tractor split and repair has been made. I am happy with the repair, the original split is sealed, the split that is next to the hydro has a leak, we looked at it took the hydro out of it and could not find a leak on it. we put it back together and the drip is still there. In that area of the tractor the hydor was the only thing that could leak. I didnt want to take it to have it checked out, im sure it would have been expensive.

The original leak i was worried about it fixed.

It has 450hours on it, and it shows to change the hydo oil at 300hours, i put new filters on it the mechanic said to change the filters the oil looked good.
I have been second guessing myself and wish i would have changed the oil but at 9.6 gallons it was getting spendy(I know, a new hydro would be alot worse) and now i have $80 in filters with the same oil.

I am going to change the oil in the front axle, its overfilled(quite a bit over)
The final reduction gear cases i am going to change next weekend the oil looks grey metallic color i am thinking they were never changed.

Changed Oil 10w30
When i changed the hydro filter i noticed the new filter was smaller(couldn't mean a factory original filter could it?), and on the tractor area(where the filter screws in) up to the rubber gasket on the filter was rusty, i was going to take a die grinder and clean it up but the oil was draining from the rest of the tractor and i didnt want to drain the whole tractor.