TC33DA left fender removal

adlertom · Apr 4, 2026

Is it a big project to remove the left fender of a TC33DA?

I assume that the seat needs to come off first.

Can the left side control levers stay in place? It looks like the plastic surround for those is a separate piece from the fender.

I wouldn't necessarily need to remove the fender completely - but move it out of the way enough to look for a hydraulic oil seepage, coming from somewhere under the seat area.

ptsg · Apr 4, 2026

Just looking at that picture, I would say you'll need to pull all the knobs out, so you can remove the gray part with the grab handle. Then remove the seat and eventually you can pull the left fender out.

The levers will start in place.

adlertom · Apr 4, 2026

The knobs on the control levers appear to be molded on - not sure how to remove those.

This diagram shows the gray central part with grab handle to be a separate piece from the blue fender, with no hardware to connect the two. Perhaps it snaps into the fender?

Even if I could get the central part of the fender, under the seat, to move up or out by a few inches, that would be enough for me to see what's going on underneath.

Halftrack · Apr 4, 2026

Before you tear into the fender(s), can you determine where the problem is? Is it near the 3 pt descent knob? That is the only area that will develop an external leak on top of the tranny. Three things involved there. On the right side is a high pressure supply line. Out the front is the descent knob. On the left is a high pressure relief valve. Of these 3, typically only the descent knob seal might leak.

Now the fun starts! The lever knobs can be removed and reattached with a heat gun. The plastic lever insert is held in place with plastic screws into plastic nuts in the fender (which typically fuse). The levers will need to be detached.

I know this because my 3 pt lift developed the "3 pt bounce" requiring a lift cylinder seal replacement and rehoning of the cylinder. Local dealer did it this winter during lull in service jobs.

adlertom · Apr 5, 2026

My leak is more of a seepage, and only happens when the tractor is used. I initially thought the hydraulic fluid was seeping out between the two housing sections in this area. I even made a post about it last year in this forum. I did tighten some housing bolts and it seemed better, but it's still seeping unfortunately.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc33da-hydraulic-leak-how-expensive-will-this-be.564099/post-7130854

So, to answer your question, I can't be certain where it's coming from, which is why I want to visualize the top side and see if anything is seeping from that area. I can only reach up so far from the underside.

I was hoping to not need to do a lot of work to access this area. Even just a little more room, perhaps from just detaching and flexing the inside of the plastic fender up by a few inches, might give me enough room to get my hand in there, wipe things down good, and then see where any fluid is coming from.

Halftrack · Apr 5, 2026

I would start by removing the right rear tire. Doing so will give you access to the 3 pt lift control and any rear hydraulic plumbing. If leakage is observed in this area, clean it up and run the tractor. Since it is a hydraulic issue, running the engine, energizes the system and should show the leak.

When I added the first and second rear remotes, mine developed a slight leak in that area. Disassembly of the valve blocks revealed a pitted mating surface on one of the blocks. This was remedied by putting a slightly oversized O ring in that opening.

Let us know what you find.

dieselscout80 · Apr 5, 2026

The knobs on my TC45DA are somewhat easy to pull off.

I have know idea how hard the center is to remove.

adlertom · Apr 8, 2026

I think my hydraulic fluid seepage is coming from under the heads of one or both of these bolts. The bolts themselves are tight.

Thinking about removing the bolts, and applying some thread lock, and/or a rubber washer under the head, to see if that stops it.

toot77 · Apr 9, 2026

If the leak is coming from the joint between the front and rear transmission cases, the tractor will likely have to be split to re-seal. Putting a rubber washer on any of the bolts that fasten the two case sections together would ultimately reduce the clamping force induced by the bolt due to compressibility of the rubber. I would think you would be risking damage to the cases if all the bolts are not maintained at the proper tightness. If the leak is from around a bolt, you might try removing and packing rtv around it to see if you can seal it, but without a rubber seal. I do not know those are blind holes or not.

Before splitting, I would also verify that the leak is not coming from one of the areas marked below in your photo,

The righthand yellow arrow points to the banjo fitting where the return line from the hydrostat (I think) attaches to the transmission case. This should be an easy 2 O-ring replacement by removing the banjo bolt. The left arrow points to something that I don’t know what it is for unless this tractor is 2wd, because I think that some other models have the fwd engagement lever there and the photo shows no lever attached) and I believe there is be an 0-ring inside that guide bushing to seal around the shaft. There also a sealing washer behind the guide bushing. I think the O-ring and sealing washer can be replaced without splitting, at least I am hoping that because that O-ring started to seep oil this past winter on my 1520. I will probably remove the transmission top cover plate while I try removing that bushing with hopes that the shaft does not get disturbed while doing so. Removing the top cover should allow access to the inside of the shaft, if gears are not in the way.

The red arrow points to the speed range selection lever rod. Diagrams make it look like the rod needs to be removed from the inside to replace an O-ring on rod. Not sure what it entails to get that rod out. I do not believe you can get to it from the top cover plate as the top cover plate covers only the front transmission case and that rod is into the rear case, I think.

adlertom · Apr 10, 2026

Thank you for your thorough reply.

Good point on not putting a rubber washer underneath the bolt heads. I see how that would reduce the torque on those bolts and possibly be problematic.

I was looking at a product called Loctite 545 that sounds promising. Maybe I could put a little bit of that on the bolt threads.

The leak doesn't seem to be coming from the banjo bolt.

I also don't know what that other protrusion you pointed out, with the shaft and bracket, is for. The tractor is 4WD. However, the leak doesn't seem to be coming from that either.

Hughman · Apr 11, 2026

I'm a bit late to this thread, but if you still need instructions on removing the fender, I have the service manual.

adlertom · Apr 11, 2026

Hughman said:
I'm a bit late to this thread, but if you still need instructions on removing the fender, I have the service manual.

Thank you. Instead of the fender, could you tell me the bolt size and specification for the bolts shown in this picture?

In addition to adding Loctite 545 to the treads, I may try replacing the bolts, but would like to order them and have them on hand before removing the existing bolts.

I realize this isn't the best/proper way to correct the seepage, but I really don't want to split the tractor.

Hughman · Apr 12, 2026

adlertom said:
Thank you. Instead of the fender, could you tell me the bolt size and specification for the bolts shown in this picture?

In addition to adding Loctite 545 to the treads, I may try replacing the bolts, but would like to order them and have them on hand before removing the existing bolts.

I realize this isn't the best/proper way to correct the seepage, but I really don't want to split the tractor.

I'm away from my manuals until Tuesday. Where exactly is that in the picture? I'm assuming somewhere near the rear axle.

adlertom · Apr 12, 2026

Hughman said:
I'm away from my manuals until Tuesday. Where exactly is that in the picture? I'm assuming somewhere near the rear axle.

Thank you.

Left underside of tractor, directly below the operator's seat. So, forward of the rear axle.

I also assume (hope) that the housing, into which this bolt goes, is threaded, and there is no nut on the inside of the housing.

I tried to use the Messick's online diagrams, but they weren't clear on this question. It may be a M10x30 size bolt?

Hughman · Apr 12, 2026

adlertom said:
Thank you.

Left underside of tractor, directly below the operator's seat. So, forward of the rear axle.

I also assume (hope) that the housing, into which this bolt goes, is threaded, and there is no nut on the inside of the housing.

I tried to use the Messick's online diagrams, but they weren't clear on this question. It may be a M10x30 size bolt?

When I bought the tractor I decided to get the full service manual. I haven't had much need for it in the last 20 years, but it's comforting knowing it's there.

thclimer · Apr 13, 2026

I'm not sure this is your exact setup but if not it doesn't really give any bolt or torque info:

Hughman · Apr 14, 2026

adlertom said:
Thank you. Instead of the fender, could you tell me the bolt size and specification for the bolts shown in this picture?

In addition to adding Loctite 545 to the treads, I may try replacing the bolts, but would like to order them and have them on hand before removing the existing bolts.

I realize this isn't the best/proper way to correct the seepage, but I really don't want to split the tractor.