tc33D wont start

[gwhynot]

my problem is very similar to the other post but with my tc33d i have good voltage with no drop at the starter(when turning key) but i have no voltage at the solenoid wire from the switch i have continuity at the safety switches from the pto and trans interlocks, glow plugs work fine. i read about a seat interlock but didn't find wires or a switch any where around the seat area, it will turn right over if i jump the solenoid (from bat post on starter). when turning the key to start position i hear a relay click but no voltage to the solenoid so i am assuming the switch is good (haven't had time to remove it yet) fuses on the left side fuse block all good,any ideas
George

 

[rjok]

I don't know if the TC-33D is different than our TC-33 but we had the inline fuse located near the starter blow once. Cause a no start condition. I think there are other posts about this. One fix I thought was to replace the fuse with a circuit breaker. I hope this helps. Rick

 

[Jerry/MT]

my problem is very similar to the other post but with my tc33d i have good voltage with no drop at the starter(when turning key) but i have no voltage at the solenoid wire from the switch i have continuity at the safety switches from the pto and trans interlocks, glow plugs work fine. i read about a seat interlock but didn't find wires or a switch any where around the seat area, it will turn right over if i jump the solenoid (from bat post on starter). when turning the key to start position i hear a relay click but no voltage to the solenoid so i am assuming the switch is good (haven't had time to remove it yet) fuses on the left side fuse block all good,any ideas
George

If you jump from the battery post on the starter to the solenoid, you should get the starter to activate without having to use the key switch. You should have bypassed all the interlocks and key switch wiring. (MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS NOT IN GEAR WHEN YOU DO THIS!)

The key switch is not oing anythiing it this case. Try it without using the key switch if it still works , then your problem is in the interlocks and wiring between the key and the solenoid. Most starting systems ar set up as a circuit between the battery with the key switch and the interlocks in series with the small wire that activates the solenoid.When the solenoid pulls in, it put full battery power to the solenod through the big battery connection.
Check your grounds to make sure they are good also.

 

[gengine]

Just for clarification, when you turn the key to start position, do you get voltage to either one of the small terminals on the solenoid? It will be the 's' terminal specifically. If voltage is present, then the solenoid is bad. The starter should be grounded through the mating to the bell housing. Your going to need someone to turn the key for you in the normal starting way. In neutral, park brake on, sitting in the seat, or whatever you have to do normally. Only one of my tractors has any safety switches, and that's on the clutch pedal. Besides that, I think Jerry has it covered.

 

[gwhynot]

ok no i do not have voltage at the s terminal when turning the key but by jumping the positive terminal on the starter to the s terminal the engine turns over fine . showing continuity at the interlock switches to me means they are operational, so i will look for a in line fuse tomorrow and a loose or burnt wire at the ignition switch. i think the D in tc33D is for diesel?

 

[gwhynot]

as of today here is what i have done
all fuses good
swapped relays around
retested all interlock switches(pto light is not lit)
traced continuity of the purple solenoid wire from relay post (so no breaks in the wire)
i checked the ign switch i have power in, power out in the on position, and power out from the start position
i get all three relays to click in various positions
i have no major voltage drop when turning switch to starter position
if i jump the starter solenoid from the positive post on the starter tractor starts and runs fine
i cant find a seat interlock switch or wiring
it sill wont turn over with the key
the only thing that confuses me is there are 4 wires off the ign switch and i can get power out of only 3 of them.# 1(left to right on the connector ) is power in. the second is power out when in on position #3 is power out at the start position# 4 has no power coming out of it at all no matter what key position (could this be a bad Ignition switch ?)
I am about to run a separate push button from power to the solonoid
can anyone help me or do i need to take it to a dealer

 

[gwhynot]

also in line fuse by starter is good

 

[k0ua]

i think the D in tc33D is for diesel?



No it stands for "deluxe" as in upscale model, more bells and whistles.

James K0UA

 

[Jerry/MT]

as of today here is what i have done
all fuses good
swapped relays around
retested all interlock switches(pto light is not lit)
traced continuity of the purple solenoid wire from relay post (so no breaks in the wire)
i checked the ign switch i have power in, power out in the on position, and power out from the start position
i get all three relays to click in various positions
i have no major voltage drop when turning switch to starter position
if i jump the starter solenoid from the positive post on the starter tractor starts and runs fine
i cant find a seat interlock switch or wiring
it sill wont turn over with the key
the only thing that confuses me is there are 4 wires off the ign switch and i can get power out of only 3 of them.# 1(left to right on the connector ) is power in. the second is power out when in on position #3 is power out at the start position# 4 has no power coming out of it at all no matter what key position (could this be a bad Ignition switch ?)
I am about to run a separate push button from power to the solonoid
can anyone help me or do i need to take it to a dealer

Does your tractor have a Thermostart cold starting aid? There is generally a position between START and RUN that connects the Thermostart from the battery, through the key switch to the Thermostart.
Let me make sure I understand you. Going clock wise, starting with the key to the far left you have battery votage at the key switch. With the next position(key verticle) , no voltage, third poition (RUN), you have voltage at the key switch and the 4th position (START) you do do not have voltage. That sounds to me like a bad key switch. I believe the circuit comes from the battery, through the key, through the interlocks and then to the starter solenoid. Can you confirm the circuit? if you don't have voltage at the 4th keyswitch position then you won't have it at the solenoid even if all the interlocks are closed.

I don't think you need a dealer.

 

[ruffdog]

gwhynot...my tc33d (deluxe)will start and run without sitting on it so I don't think it has a interlock. It does have to be in neutral and I have heard of people getting sticks caught in that switch.

 

[gwhynot]

let me try to be clearer at the rear of the key switch there is a connector with 4 wires the first wire has power all the time , the second wire on the connector has power to it with the key switch in run or the on position, the third wire has power when you turn the key to the start position but i can not get power to the the fourth wire in any key position. the therm o start (glow plug) light does light up in the start position and then times out so could the fourth wire be starter and not the third . i had assumed the third ran both glow plugs and starter. thanks for making me see this i will try disconnecting the connector and hitting the 4th wire with 12 volts and see what happens then i will know it is the switch, or short out the whole electrical system

 

[gwhynot]

thank you all for your help for any one else seeing this post the ign switch on this tractor has four wires red white black and purple. red is power in, white is power out in the on position, black and purple both are power out in the start position, black is therm o start (glow plugs ) and purple is starter. the catch is both purple and black need to be energized at the same time or the solenoid doesn't get power.so just jumping the purple wire wont do it. long story short i need a new ign switch thanks again for the help
george

 

[ruffdog]

gwhynot...do you have your owners manual with the electrical schematic? I'm looking at mine and the purple wire leaves the ign sw and goes to the safety start relay. There is the trans range neutral sw and two sw for both rear and mid pto. The pto sw's are tied into a pto safety start relay. I'm not sure if that's so you can't run both pto's at the same time??? It appears that if you ground the black #85 terminal coming out of the safety start relay, (the one with the purple wires to it) you will get power to your purple starter solonoid wire.

 

[gwhynot]

thanks ruffdog I don't have a schematic i just used my dvom and traced voltage and continuity, my problem is the ign switch is not giving the fourth wire or purple wire (out of ing switch) any power at all, I have ordered a new switch and will post the results

 

[528Nford]

gwhynot, the forth wire on switch may be for the glow plugs, it gets hot just before the run,, the seat switch is not on the seat, it is on the tractor, mounting brackers where the seat is when you are on tractor, The pto, seat, trans, and brake switches are all in the safty curcite.. And did you ck the fuseable link at the starter, it is the purple wire about 3 to 4 in. long?

 

[ruffdog]

thanks ruffdog I don't have a schematic i just used my dvom and traced voltage and continuity, my problem is the ign switch is not giving the fourth wire or purple wire (out of ing switch) any power at all, I have ordered a new switch and will post the results

I think he is safe to think the ign sw is bad with no power on the purple wire coming out of the sw at the start position. Just so there is power TO the switch!