TC 40D blowing HYD fluid all over the grass!

[Porkie]

My well taken care off 2001 TC, with only 1,394 hours has a problem! While using my Squealer 72 inch Bush Hog the other day, my forward motion started to become jerky and the HST pedal started to pulsate badly and then all motion stopped! I set the brake and jumped off to find a line of HYD fluid about a foot wide, going back for 50 feet or so! I checked the dip stick and it was DRY! The only place that I could see a leak under the tractor looked to be from the engine valve cover breather hose. Today, I put 4 gallons of fluid in and was able to get it from the field to my barn but the 4 gallons didn't even register on the dip stick! I have a full size hydraulic lift and I'm going to do a real close inspection tomorrow to see if I can find the cause. The HST had become jerky when hot for some time now.

I would really appreciate some help on this. I think it may be the main HYD pump seal that has gone bad!

Thanks, Sam

I have posted since about 2001 under: "Gandalf." I changed it to "Porkie" recently.

 

[jinman]

I think it may be the main HYD pump seal that has gone bad!

I agree. That's the only thing that could put hydraulic fluid into your engine.

 

[Porkie]

We power washed the tractor and put it on the hydraulic lift to get a better look underneath but it was oil and hyd fluid free. Only the engine valve cover breather line showed tell tale signs of having flowed fluid. It hasn't leaked one drop since I parked it on the concrete barn driveway.

But--------- I checked the engine oil and although it was ready to be changed, the fluid on the dipstick, besides being WAY over filled, was as clean as brand new hydraulic fluid. I guess that the HYD pump is letting the fluid get into the engine sump! I sure hope that it hasn't hurt anything!

I stopped by a New Holland dealer today and looked at a very nice 2005, used TT75, 2WD tractor, with no loader but 2 rear remotes, with only 234 hours on it. Aside from the top of the seat being slightly split open, it showed virtually no wear. They want $17,500 for it.

They offered me $12,500 trade in for my tractor and loader. ****** However, I will need to get the pump fixed first or maybe let the dealer just deduct the cost of repair up front?????

I really don't know whether to keep the TC and have it fixed or trade it in on the almost new TT75. Decisions, decisions, decisions!

Sam

 

[The Haymaker]

My T2220 did the same thing when I tweaked the casting that the hydraulic filter attached to and caused a crack.

 

[jinman]

Sam, if a 2wd tractor that is not HST will work for you, then you may have found a deal. Certainly, the TT75 is a very capable tractor. For me, I would have a hard time giving up my TC45D because I love the HST when mowing and doing lots of direction changes. I also have challenging terrain on my property and 4wd is very much a needed tool. If you are afraid the TC40D you have now is getting to be problematic, then the TT75 might be a good choice for you. The price sure seems right.

As a minimum on your TC40D, you need to get the seals replaced in the main hyd. pump and then see how it operates. The engine full of fluid is not good. Probably engine oil seals were stressed and the oil washed the bottoms of the pistons. Since you shut it down fairly quickly, you may have very little engine problems, but you'll not know until you fix the hyd seals and operate the tractor for awhile. Also, I'm concerned that your HST is jumpy. Running low on fluid can cause the internal pistons to gall and the HST lose performance. I don't know what would cause it to become jumpy though. That almost sounds like air being drawn into the system.

I would get the TC40D fixed and see how it operates. If it is okay, you might just decide to keep it, but it also will make the best trade if it is running well. You'll have to make that choice.

 

[Porkie]

Thanks Jim for your concern and answers! You've helped me before on the forum and I appreciate it.

QUESTION: Are all of the seals that may be causing this leak actually INSIDE the pump housing? I see on the parts breakdown of the pump assy, posted on this site, that there are a lot of seals and parts that drive the pump and are between it and the other "assembly." (?) Do these other parts also need to be replaced?

I am going to remove the quick disconnect 16LA loader from the TC this morning, put it back on the lift and if it looks like I can get to the pump fairly easily, I'll remove it and probably take the pump to my NH dealer and have them fix it, after I take it apart and inspect the pump for obvious signs of damage. If it looks like something I can do, I'll get the repair kit and install it.

***** When I added the 4 gallons of hyd fluid to get me back to my barn, about a half mile distance, the HST, loader and 3 point worked perfectly. The HST in low and high, shifted it's ranges just fine, so I pray that all will be well when fixed.

The engine starts and runs very well, with no "smoking" or other indication that it doesn't enjoy clean hyd fluid in it's belly any less than good ol' Rotella T!!!

After either I fix the pump or the dealer does so, I will drain all fluids completely and replace ALL filters and hope for the best.

The TT75 is very enticing but----It doesn't have a loader and personally, I think that a loader, on a farm, is the most important implement. I asked the NH dealer about the cost of installing a new loader and it was upwards of $7,000 additional! I am also a true believer in 4WD and use it all the time, however the TT75 has massive rear tires compared to my TC so I do think that would work fine. Basically, all I do is farm chores, brush hogging, finish mowing, (9 acres) and property line maintenance on the 40+ acres I own.

I would appreciate the additional horsepower and torque of the geared TT75, when bush hogging. The Farmer that normally does my hay bailing twice per year, moved away and the fields were in some places 4 to 6 ft high and although my TC worked just fine, it was a slow process to HOG 30+ acres!!!!!!

I use a bushhog SQUEALER 72 and I think it would work with the TT75 but I've got to look it up. All of my other implememts should work just fine.

Wish me luck on this pump situation!

Thanks, Sam

 

[jinman]

Sam, read this recent thread about a blown main pump seal. The dealer initially only replaced the outer seals on this fellow's pump and it didn't hold. The seal kit for your tractor is about $175 plus installation and I would get both inner and outer seals replaced.

 

[Porkie]

Well, I did it--almost. Only one 14mm bolt is left until my hydraulic pump will land in my greasy hands! It's the lower left bolt (from the back) in about the 7 o'clock position. It would be out but I couldn't find my 3/8 inch breaker bar, that would allow clearence between the oil dip-stick tube and the bolt. The ratchet and 14mm socket together actually touch the tube. This would have been much easier without the loader support brackets. It was nice having a hyd lift too!

New Holland or whomever supplies their hyd pumps should be taught something about corrosion or electrolysis because every bolt holding the pump on was badly corroded, even on the threads, which made it much tougher to break free and remove. A little oil or WD40 on the treads would have been nice.

About removing the 16LA quick disconnect loader: Quick disconnect my overly plump butt! I couldn't find the owners manual for the loader and I was by myself and it being the first time, it was fairly labor intensive!

I'll post again when I get the pump completely off and apart.

Sam

 

[jinman]

Read through this thread and it may help you with your loader. Hope so. . .

 

[Porkie]

It's all apart and the NH dealer ordered my $175 overhaul kit.

I took the pump itself apart and it was clean with no scratches or damage---however, both of the yellow plastic "butterfly looking" gaskets were deterioriated and actually apart in a few places. They did not leak outside of the pump. The other two large "O" rings inside the pump were okay and not deterioriated.

The pump actually bolts to a casting that bolts to the "cam gear drive housing" and that casting is what actually contains the main hyd shaft seal, that is the cause of these catastrophic failures and to the high pressure pumping of hyd fluid into the cam gear drive housing and into the engine sump. Excess hyd fluid and engine oil is then vented out of the valve cover breather tube.

The pump itself, had several seals that were old and brittle (O rings) and a couple of odd shaped yellow plastic, "butterfly" gaskets (one on each end) that were actually split and deterioriated.

Getting the pump and intake and exhaust hydraulic tubing off was the time consuming part but replacing all of the O-rings, seals and gaskets will be child's play in comparison.

I would say that time, heat and severity of use and maybe a little abuse, leads to these failures.

It will take a week to get the kit in to the dealer so it will be a while before I can get-er-done!

JIM: Thanks for the "loader info!"

Sam