Oil & Fuel TC 35D Loss of Power after Replacing fuel injector pump

[Mytractorbroken]

I am hoping someone can help me with this concern. I have a tc35d where the fuel injector began leaking from one of the output ports. I replaced the pump and initially it did not work however after talking with a technician we came upon that the governor was binding. Once I again took out the pump and put it back in it ran like it should however when I placed a demand upon the throttle it seemed to be slow to spool up and when driving it lacks power. My concern is of course when I go to use equipment with the PTO. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to troubleshoot a repair this concern?

 

[Jerry/MT]

I am hoping someone can help me with this concern. I have a tc35d where the fuel injector began leaking from one of the output ports. I replaced the pump and initially it did not work however after talking with a technician we came upon that the governor was binding. Once I again took out the pump and put it back in it ran like it should however when I placed a demand upon the throttle it seemed to be slow to spool up and when driving it lacks power. My concern is of course when I go to use equipment with the PTO. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to troubleshoot a repair this concern?

Before you blame the pump, make sure that you have adequate fuel delivery TO THE PUMP. Many times a low power condition is caused by inadequate fuel delivery.

Start at the tank outlet where it might be plugged by whatever. Make sure the fuel line to the filter is not kinked or pinched. When did you last replace the fuel filter? Check the filter head since there could be debris in the passages. Check the line to the injector pump. Did you bleed the system before you tried to start the tractor? Since it takes air and fuel to generate power, make sure the air filter is not clogged for completeness. A quick check for fuel delivery is to remove the fuel supply line to the injection pump. Fuel should gush out like a cow peeing on a flat rock. (Make sure the shut off is not "on" or the key switch is "on" if you have a solenoid operated shutoff.)
Finally when you installed the new pump, did you line up the pump timing marks correctly?

 

[Mytractorbroken]

Wow! Thank you for replying so fast. For a while, fuel leaked from the bowl. I tried a new O-ring. New Holland was happy to sell me at $7.50. It still leaked! The bowl they said costs $40 so I just replaced entire assembly for $140. Fixed leak and yes, fuel comes out without pump even going by gravity. Bleeding is straightforward and the engine has an auto bleed line that should assist with bleeding if not clogged... It ran like a champ prior to me working on it. The only common denominator is the pump replacement. The timming is accomplished by the gaskets that seat the pump. Again, I concur with additional bleeding. If no improvement, I my reinstall the old pump ( I am getting good at it) to see if it operates normally if bleeding does not help. Again, I appreciate your reply. I love your photo.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Does it have an electric solenoid that "screws in" beside the inj. pump.??
What are the chances u TRIED to take the pump out the 1st time without unscrewing it.??
What happens is, u bend the rod in the solenoid & it will only retract partially.. so it will start & run but only at 1/2 power because the sol. rod is holding the pump rack from opening up all the way..
Unscrew the solenoid & test out my theory..

 

[Mytractorbroken]

time for me to eat a little crow pie. I worked on the tractor today buy bleeding the fuel manifold again. I then took the tractor for a test drive. There was no improvement so I decided to follow Jerry's suggestions. I remembered he said about Fuel and Air. The solenoid on the subsequent post was a good suggestion and would have been good to know when I first remove the pump as I did bend the pin but I was able to straighten it and it function properly. What it boiled down to is out of desperation I pulled the air filter off completely and experienced the joy of 35 horsepower with my tractor as it is supposed to be. I really appreciate the suggestions and only wish that I wasn't so stubborn not to listen to facts. Please accept my apology and appreciation again thank you for your posts.

 

[Jerry/MT]

time for me to eat a little crow pie. I worked on the tractor today buy bleeding the fuel manifold again. I then took the tractor for a test drive. There was no improvement so I decided to follow Jerry's suggestions. I remembered he said about Fuel and Air. The solenoid on the subsequent post was a good suggestion and would have been good to know when I first remove the pump as I did bend the pin but I was able to straighten it and it function properly. What it boiled down to is out of desperation I pulled the air filter off completely and experienced the joy of 35 horsepower with my tractor as it is supposed to be. I really appreciate the suggestions and only wish that I wasn't so stubborn not to listen to facts. Please accept my apology and appreciation again thank you for your posts.

Glad you found the problem and it was a simple fix. There is a bazillion years of experience on these forums and everyone is willing to help solve a problem though it's not an easy task to diagnose from miles away. Don't hesitate to come back and ask for help.

 

[thepumpguysc]

"THIS" has happened to me time & time again & I keep forgetting.. {Its basic engine procedure for me}
.. not everyone takes the air filter out/off when diagnosing an engine.. but I keep forgetting to "write it out"..
Happy for ya.. now get to work.. Lol

 

[Mytractorbroken]

Well, at least I thought I fixed it. Seems to lack power when demanded. Called New Holland and tech said timing off. Decal said 18 degrees btdc. How do I know when at 0? I pulled pump again. Looking at crank shaft it has three threaded holes. Any ideas?

 

[Mytractorbroken]

Well, at least I thought I fixed it. Seems to lack power when demanded. Called New Holland and tech said timing off. Decal said 18 degrees btdc. How do I know when at 0? I pulled pump again. Looking at crank shaft it has three threaded holes. Any ideas?

 

[thepumpguysc]

There are usually indent marks on the pulley.. & they're painted over..
Unless u had lost the shims underneath the inj. pump when u removed it..
.. the timing doesn't change.. unless theres a catastrophic failure.
RE-DO the steps taken AGAIN.. Remove the air box.. or remove the piping going to the intake..just pull it aside.
Remove the shut off solenoid.. you'll just lose a small amount of "splash oil" while testing.. or stuff it w. paper towels..
MAKE SURE the fuel flow hasn't slowed down by something in the fuel tank outlet..
& run it under a load..
IF it improves, re-install the parts removed 1 @ a time.. each time testing the machine under a load..
Good luck..