Taking Slop out of Drawbar 5083E

[Tx Jim]

RedNeckRacin
What I envisioned when Rick stated u-shaped shims was actually C-shaped shims. Just get a feeler type gauge and insert between drawbar & bracket to measure shim thickness required. Get 1/2 that thickness of metal the same width as drawbar is thick. Make shims 3 inches longer than drawbar bracket slot. Bend shim at 90 degrees one inch from each end,slide shims in turning 90 degree on each shim pointing towards each side(rear tires) then slide drawbar in between the shims. The 90 degree bends will keep the shims in place. My explanation is clear as mud isn't it!!!!!!

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Well, thats what I was thinking but I just wanted to make sure I got the right idea. I've never had to take the slop out of a drawbar before so I knew there had to be a good way to go about it since I can't be the only one that has ran into this before. A ruler might work a little bit better than a feeler guage though. The gap is pretty big (1/4" or so). Speaking of shims, NH wants $3 apiece for stub guard shims, is there a cheaper place to get them at?

 

[Tx Jim]

RedNeckRacin
No ruler required if you had a "Texas size" feeler gauge:laughing:

 

[RickB]

RedNeckRacin
What I envisioned when Rick stated u-shaped shims was actually C-shaped shims. Just get a feeler type gauge and insert between drawbar & bracket to measure shim thickness required. Get 1/2 that thickness of metal the same width as drawbar is thick. Make shims 3 inches longer than drawbar bracket slot. Bend shim at 90 degrees one inch from each end,slide shims in turning 90 degree on each shim pointing towards each side(rear tires) then slide drawbar in between the shims. The 90 degree bends will keep the shims in place. My explanation is clear as mud isn't it!!!!!!

That's it. My 'U' is lying on its side!!