Takin it to the MAX

[piercedtiger]

Actually Black it appears you are not wrong at all. It is I that have been doing it incorrectly. The manual states (for my 3016 that is, and it seems to be the same process for hydro or gear) that as long as you engage the pedal with your foot down on it, it remains in diff lock. Foot off: it disengages. My method of engaging and then taking my foot off as soon as it engages must be working because i could be keeping my foot on the pedal longer than I actually think I am. I just use it to get me out of a trouble spot. The manual did state that all wheels must be stopped before engagement by either depressing the clutch on a gear, or putting the hydro in "neutral shift" mode.

I believe what you're experiencing is tension on the locking mechanism. You'll push it down to get out of a trouble spot, and while driving the tension on the drive system keeps it locked until you unload that tension by stopping, or reversing direction. That way you lock it when needed, and when you don't need it (because you're stopped, or backing up) it automatically unlocks.

 

[oldpilgrim]

The manual states (for my 3016 that is, and it seems to be the same process for hydro or gear) that as long as you engage the pedal with your foot down on it, it remains in diff lock. Foot off: it disengages.

I haven't read the manual but my 3016 HST seems to work that way. My observations while using it made me determine that this is the case.

The manual did state that all wheels must be stopped before engagement by either depressing the clutch on a gear, or putting the hydro in "neutral shift" mode.

This is how I do it for the reasons I stated previously about engaging/disengaging causing damage.

When all else fails, read the manual seems to apply here.

 

[AchingBack]

I haven't read the manual but my 3016 HST seems to work that way. My observations while using it made me determine that this is the case.



This is how I do it for the reasons I stated previously about engaging/disengaging causing damage.

When all else fails, read the manual seems to apply here.

I just reread the 2615/3015 manual. I was incorrect in thinking the diff. lock was still engaged after the foot was released from the pedal. It operates the same as the 3016.

 

[arrow]

A lot of good ancillary stuff comes up when someone such as Blackmax ventures into uncharted waters most of us are hesitant to sail in. Uncharted waters for me mostly has the effect of the Bermuda Triangle. Creates a feeling of being lost, hopeless, dazed and despair. Many times I've said hello to Amelia Earhart or at least I think I have..

 

[Black Max]

Here is the pics of my lights mounted up, I like how the LED light bar tucks into the ROPS. The top light bar on the back is the emergency strobe lights, yellow tape is just marking which lights are Amber as I have to re wire them for my controller. Bottom bar i am using for a work light, I will wire them to come on with my manual reverse light switch.

 

[oldpilgrim]

are you planning on lighting the local college football stadium?

 

[piercedtiger]

We need to see that sucker at night now!! :thumbsup:

One of the things that concerns me with your locker actuator setup is if the gears aren't lined up perfectly when you hit the button. My Massey's foot pedal goes down about an inch if things aren't lined up properly, and then once I turn the tires a little it drops the last inch and engages. How will the actuator handle that? Will it force it and break something, or put pressure on until things line up without damaging it?

Even the electronic diff lock in my truck is spring loaded for that reason. The electric motor puts pressure on a coil spring to push or pull on the actual locker to engage or disengage. I would think you might need a similar buffer.

 

[Black Max]

Here is all I have to go on out of the Mahindra 25 HST service manual... You can see the rod I replaced, the spring I need to compress, which is why I believed I needed to hold the pedal down to keep the diff lock engaged. The spring will separate the dogs item 1 in both photos when pedal is not activated. The linear actuator will try to run until the limit switch is reached, but seems to have a stall if overloaded. The dogs may not be lined up when I use the foot pedal, same for the actuator, and the tractor may have to move to engage fully in either case. The actuator itself I believe is the weak link here, not the internals. Keep in mind I have control with a switch, instead of my foot, difference being I will not have to hold the pedal or switch once fully engaged. The setting of the limit switches is critical, more to the life of the actuator itself as long as the travel of the actuator allows the dogs to fully engage, there should be no issue. I am also unable to accidentally hit the pedal with my foot now, it also gives slightly more foot room which is valuable on a Max25. I am not using a hydraulic ram here with thousands of pounds of force, only enough force to replace what I would have used with my foot...

 

[piercedtiger]

Ok good. With the spring being internal I agree with your assessment. With the linear actuator pushing on the spring I would think you'd be ok as well.

 

[Black Max]

are you planning on lighting the local college football stadium?

225 watts probably wouldn't light up the bathroom in the stadium... Lol.